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Old 01-26-2013, 05:04 PM   #61
supershaft
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If that's metal you need to have a look at your drive shaft cush drive.
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:09 PM   #62
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Ron - just to be clear... It is not good to have your clutch being oiled...







Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
It has nothing to do with the oil unless your clutch has been getting oiled the whole time
and it doesn't care for Red Line. Chances are your clutch splines actually need lubing.
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:34 PM   #63
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some_guy,

Sounds like the swing arm has to come off and the drive shaft taken out for inspection.

So all you have done is a spline lube?

And,
emmaroseknucles (hope I got that right),

Does sound like oil or grease on the clutch disk. Maybe. It's hard to say with out a little more explanation. Why don't you do yourself and every body else a favor and start a thread on this so we can see that the right thing gets done. Too much confusion sometimes if too many threads all run together.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:46 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
some_guy,

Sounds like the swing arm has to come off and the drive shaft taken out for inspection.

So all you have done is a spline lube?
I think the metal chunks are from the corners of the u-joint. There are four chunks and four corners rounded off the u-joint.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:59 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by some_guy View Post
I think the metal chunks are from the corners of the u-joint. There are four chunks and four corners rounded off the u-joint.
I think you might have nailed it. How did that happen? The drive shaft bolts came loose in the past? When my shock stud broke my swingarm went high enough to bend the subframe up almost an inch and rip the hinges out of my seat pan and it didn't mark my ujoint like that.
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Old 01-27-2013, 05:56 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
I think you might have nailed it. How did that happen? The drive shaft bolts came loose in the past? When my shock stud broke my swingarm went high enough to bend the subframe up almost an inch and rip the hinges out of my seat pan and it didn't mark my ujoint like that.
No Idea. I bought this bike last summer and this is the first time I've had it apart. The bolts were tight enough to break a cheapo wrench. Are the drive shaft bolts a single use deal?

Note to self...make sure shock studs look fine.
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:22 AM   #67
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It sounds like SS is lucky he still has the family jewels.

The drive shaft bolts are supposed to be one time use but many reuse them and problems are seldom reported. Your saying that the ones you took out were too tight is not a good indication. If PO had been in the habit of over tightening things it could be the source of this problem and others. Over torqued is as likely to come undone as under torqued. But few of us even use a torque wrench on these.

I reuse these but also change them now and again. The ones I have in now were new and they have been on place for about two years. I'm going to take the final drive off soon and may be taking this apart, not sure. I could reuse these at least once, maybe twice. I do like to replace nuts and bolts sometimes tho and won't keep these forever.

To properly use a torque wrench on these you need the special adapter. I don't feel like getting one just for this one operation that I don't think I need it for.

I use the tool kit short flat box end 10 X 12 mm wrench and with Blue Locktight I give each bolt two grunts. Maybe some PO had a longer wrench?

I'll try to look up the actual torque value later. I do believe knowing what it is is helpful even if I'm not using a torque wrench.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:24 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by some_guy View Post
I think the metal chunks are from the corners of the u-joint. There are four chunks and four corners rounded off the u-joint.
Is that swingarm aligned? If not I think the U-joint can rub on it. Just asking, the last one I took out sure wasn't aligned by the PO/mechanic.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:52 AM   #69
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A couple of observations:

1. The gap between the swingarm and the frame looks quite large. I'm assuming that the other side will be much smaller. They should be the same.
2. Blowing the picture up shows that the U-joint is rounded off, with a sharp cut-off. That suggests that it was rubbing on the swingarm because the alignment is off.
3. Here is a long shot. Years ago a customer brought his R100RT in complaining about an oil leak from the swingarm. Long story short, the driveshaft damper spring had broken and the broken edge was cutting the swingarm tube from the inside until it broke through and leaked oil.
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:57 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by some_guy View Post
No Idea. I bought this bike last summer and this is the first time I've had it apart. The bolts were tight enough to break a cheapo wrench. Are the drive shaft bolts a single use deal?

Note to self...make sure shock studs look fine.
You are suppose to use new ones. IF they are in perfect shape, I have never heard of or seen a problem re-using them.

I am against over tightening anything. That's why I use torque wrenches all the time. Nevertheless, I know from experience that those drive shaft bolts are not tightened enough on a regular basis. THAT is the sole reason why so many people have issues with them coming loose. They do not need loctite. I suspect 99% of loctite applications there don't work anyway for the threads being contaminated with oil. All they need is to be torqued to spec. Spec is damn tight. I highly suspect that many people would be surprised just how tight spec is if they used a torque wrench but then a lot of people seem to have issues using torque wrenches. They are simple enough in my book?

The stud looks fine? I thought about what I could have done during my year long recovery. Other than removing it and having it Xrayed, I don't know what I could have done? It wasn't corroded.
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:38 PM   #71
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I'll second the data on torquing the ujoint bolts! It's tighter than you'd suspect.

I always used a long 10mm box end and put a lot of weight into it - several good grunts. When I finally got a torque wrench that would read accurately at 27 ft/lbs (I think that's the setting) I was surprised how much force was needed to tighten them. I doubt you can over tighten them normally (at least they're usually undertightened rather than over), but then again, anything's possible!

As for reusing them - the data is that if they thread in easily by hand, they're not stretched and ok to use again.
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:50 AM   #72
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My own experience with these bolts is multiple uses using the 10mm 12 point from the tool kit.
Back brake on to lock it all up, and tighten by hand.
Never found a loose one.

I might be equal first for the number of times pulling a tranny from the same bike.
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:33 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
Yes; the first few years of the non-flywheel bikes had some problems with the clutch carriers. I would replace the entire clutch - carrier to cover - and of course the input shaft. Then you'll be set for a long time.
Since it's open, I may as well do the lower 5th gear mod as well.

How do I get one of these from you Anton? I've got the 15 degree gears, bike manufactured in November 1980.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:58 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GapRunr View Post
Since it's open, I may as well do the lower 5th gear mod as well.

How do I get one of these from you Anton? I've got the 15 degree gears, bike manufactured in November 1980.
Gimme a ring during business hours. (434) 409-3767.
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