VW Syncro Westfalia - Build Log with Pics

[Dr Klaun]

Originally Posted by Hodakaguy

Yep, it's a piston out of a Ingersol Rand KVS 26CT Engine. This one was over limits on out of round and was pulled. The bare piston weighs 400lbs so it makes a nice solid vice stand.

Here's a few pics.

The piston has two threaded holes in the dome of the piston that are used for attaching a pulling tool to remove the piston from the engine. I just cut a piece of plate and drilled two holes so I could attach the plate to the piston with bolts....worked great.




Hodakaguy

That's pretty cool! Thanks for the feedback!

[Ken]

Okay, this is cool

[ADW]

Originally Posted by Hodakaguy

Had to notch the fuel tank strap to give proper clearance for the main starter cable on the TDI starter. I used POR15 on the bare metal and will seal it again before moving on.



Hodakaguy

A thorough guy like you has probably already thought of this, but with those tight clearances between the starter terminal and the frame be REALLY sure you consider things like engine roll and/or mount deflection due to suspension or etc.etc.etc. That looks like awfully tight clearance and you need to think about ways that starter terminal could get closer during operating the vehicle.

Disclaimer; I have no idea of the engine mounts, where the starter's mounted, where/which way engine roll will occur, how the suspension might allow twist in a crossditch condition etc. on this project and engine/powertrain assembly. But dealing with roll and clearances is an important part of my "day job" so I noticed it and thought I'd mention it.

[Hodakaguy]

Originally Posted by ADW

A thorough guy like you has probably already thought of this, but with those tight clearances between the starter terminal and the frame be REALLY sure you consider things like engine roll and/or mount deflection due to suspension or etc.etc.etc. That looks like awfully tight clearance and you need to think about ways that starter terminal could get closer during operating the vehicle.

Disclaimer; I have no idea of the engine mounts, where the starter's mounted, where/which way engine roll will occur, how the suspension might allow twist in a crossditch condition etc. on this project and engine/powertrain assembly. But dealing with roll and clearances is an important part of my "day job" so I noticed it and thought I'd mention it.

Yeah I've thought about that as well, I think there will be sufficient clearance (I opened it up a bit more after that pic was taken), I'll keep a close eye on it and if it is contacting I'll open it up some more. I may route the cable to the other side which will gain a little more clearance as well.

Hodakaguy

[Hodakaguy]

Decided to switch gears a little and start working on the front end. I need to get the new radiator installed, hoses ran etc before I can test run the engine so I decided to just do the whole front end now.

First I'll install the oil dip stick before heading to the front.

The RMW dip stick to go with their shortened oil pan.




Fitted up to the pan.




Top view.




Ok front end up on Jack stands...let the fun begin.




Here we go




Dust shield looks a little crusty, I don't think your suppose to see through them :-)




To remove the springs I'll use a KTC spring compressor. If you've never used one of these they are the ticket! Sooooo much safer and easier than the small clamp style compressors plus it doesn't screw up the powder coating on the new springs! The kit comes with shoes for several size springs, it's a little spendy but it's cheaper than a smashed face from a cheap compressor slipping off the spring :-)






Compressing the spring. You can see kroil over spray everywhere :-)




Time to remove the axle




Starting to look bare.




Using a puller to push out the axle.




Driver side components.






Time to start on the passenger side. The drivers side retaining bolt stripped...lets see how the passenger side goes.




Nope...It stripped out as well.




Bolt head drilled out, you can just see the line where it's separating in two.




Using the puller to finish separating the stripped bolt.




Separated. I'll get the rest of the bolt out later.




Rust from the dust shield....I'll replace them with Stainless Steel units.




Hodakaguy

[d mc gee]

You have the bolt drilled centered from the looks of it. I've had great success removing similarly drilled bolts by using a left hand drill bit. Just make sure its smaller diameter than your threads.

Love your syncro build thread. I have lad several early aircooled vanagons, it was long enough ago that I remember it fondly.

[Cogswell]

Originally Posted by Hodakaguy

Time to start on the passenger side. The drivers side retaining bolt stripped...lets see how the passenger side goes.




Nope...It stripped out as well.



Hodakaguy

A hand held impact driver works well on those fasteners.

Big envy on your spring compressor .


Enjoying the progress, it's going to be a nice machine when you are finished.

Mike

[bobfab]

Any updates? I love this thread!

[Hodakaguy]

Time to get back on the VW project, been messing with other hobbies but I want to get the bus rolling before spring so it's time to get busy.

Radiator removed.






Laying out the coolant pipes, time to figure out their layout. Would have been nice if they were supplied with stickers showing which pipe goes where.




New SA radiator.




New rad back in the bus.




Steering rack out.




Time to remove the stuck rotor bolts. Drilled through the broken bolt from the back side, the drill bit spun them right out.






Time to remove the CV joints from the axles. The inner joints came right off, the outer joints were a different story. They have an internal cir-clip that holds them onto the shaft, in both cases the cir-clip was up tight against one side of the CV, I could only get one side to expand and couldn't get it to fully release.

Since I'm installing new CV joints and I got tired of messing with it I used a skinny wheel and chisel to remove them quickly :-)




Axles fresh out of the bead blaster.




Removing the bearing race from the hubs






More to come.....

Hodakaguy

[a1fa]

[Hodakaguy]

Tonight's Progress.

Stock lights removed.




Wiring in Relays for the high and low beams. Should provide more voltage to the lights and let the high/low switch last longer.




Relays wired in, they are sitting on the top right of the fuse panel




Wires soldered onto the new head light plugs, and plugged in to the new light.






The middle lights are a little tricky. You need to temporarily attach the grill to locate where the lights need to go, then mark and drill new holes for the assy. They also need to be adjusted vertically so you need to bend the metal tabs till they are centered properly. Here the new locations are marked and ready to drill.




Old headlights....




And new headlights.....






I really like the look of the round headlights, plus I've read where they put out better usable light. Now that I know everything fits and works I will take it apart one more time, seal all the connections and paint/rust proof the new holes that were drilled.

Lots more to come....

Hodakaguy

[oregoncoast]

Beautiful work...as always

[Mr. Fisherman]

Wow Tom, that is looking good

What are you preping the axles for?

[kobudo28]

Good to see you back at it. I appreciate your craftsmanship and attention to detail.

File this thread under..."How to do things the right way."

[ducnut]

Originally Posted by Hodakaguy

Wiring in Relays for the high and low beams. Should provide more voltage to the lights and let the high/low switch last longer.

I did the 4-light high beam conversion on my Silverado. My relay power runs straight off the battery, as it's right behind the left headlight. Where did you tap into? The main power to the panel?

Originally Posted by Hodakaguy

And new headlights.....

Very "euro". I like it.