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01-28-2013, 07:57 AM
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#1 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: GA
Oddometer: 1,832
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cleaning aluminum
yes, I know,
but I would like to clean aluminum surfaces without polishing them want to retain the matte, whitish aluminum sheen and not end up with a chromy-shiny surface how do I achieve that? thanks fiep |
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01-28-2013, 08:08 AM
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#2 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2010
Oddometer: 2,079
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Aluminium oxyde is a tuff guy.
There're 2 ways to remove it; chemical or physical. Forget the physical way if you don't want to polish it. So it leaves you with chemical. (phosphoric) Acid based cleaner like DX-533 would do it. You can try with vinegar, Borax or oven cleaner (lye) too.
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2010 Buell Ulysses 1984 Suzuki GR650 "Tempter" SgtDuster screwed with this post 01-28-2013 at 08:14 AM |
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01-28-2013, 11:29 AM
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#3 |
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A proud pragmatist.
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
Oddometer: 2,860
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Had some good results with KrudKutter. The one that says "a must for rust",prediluted in the spray bottle does have phosphoric acid in it but also the grease/dirt cutting agents. The "Original" KrudKutter doesn't have the phosphoric acid in it.
You can also buy Krudkutter "must for rust" on its own, that's phosphoric acid but no degreaser/cleaners and I haven't tried it yet. I was thinking of mixing it with the "Original" to approximate the other one but understand that any phosphoric acids at higher concentrations may stain/blacken the aluminium in some blotchy way you may not like. Impossible to find in Canada anyway all of them KrudKutter products. Lets see what you have to deal with, I might just tell you to buy Rub'n'Buff Silver Leaf, the cheap and very easy way to apply a wax/pigment coating to even out aluminium. Works well and as it is a wax product will prevent further oxidations.
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Have tools, will travel!
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01-28-2013, 11:34 AM
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#4 |
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Beastly Gnarly
Joined: May 2012
Location: VA
Oddometer: 286
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Try a scotch-brite pad with WD-40.
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01-28-2013, 01:35 PM
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#5 |
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Yinz, blinkers are on.
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: The Paris of Appalachia
Oddometer: 9,976
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+1 Kerosene works as well as wd40. Harsh chems like acids/oven cleaner, may work but many will etch and or eat thru alum if left on too long.... Do a test area before commiting
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If your looking for me. I will be at Rella's eating Blackberry pie. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=791094 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ampAFmwP_E |
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01-28-2013, 01:54 PM
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#6 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Indiana
Oddometer: 213
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I used to fly model airplanes and the heads would get varnished due to the two-stroke oil.
I cleaned them by letting them soak for a day or two in a crock-pot full of antifreeze. I don't remember the temp setting, but they don't get that hot anyway. Did a great job of getting all the dirt, etc. out of the crevices.
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"Human beings are the only creatures on Earth that claim a God, and the only living things that behave like they haven't got one." - The Rum Diary |
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01-28-2013, 02:23 PM
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#7 |
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n00b on the move
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: TampaBay
Oddometer: 151
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Dunno how dull you are willing to go but I have made some beat-up neglected aluminium parts look pretty new with an HarborFreight Soda Blaster. It's not chome/polished but it's not pitted like other blast media.
Blast and rinse. Couldn't be easier. Warning. DO NOT BLAST INSIDE YOUR GARAGE (or outside with the garage door open) You will want to hose off everything within 20-30ft of your blast zone. This is not me but it is an inmate here: (actually, I didn't take a picture of my garage when I did it right in front of the open door... but when I turned around after a good hour of blasting a table full of parts this is pretty much what I saw!)
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01-28-2013, 02:26 PM
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#8 |
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t00 0ld 2b n00b
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Central CT
Oddometer: 1,294
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I use red Scotchbrite to give a nice "brushed" finish (or as a step toward a polished surface).
But if you just want to clean the aluminum oxide off, I've used a product called "Coil-Brite-A", which is designed to clean the coils in A/C units. http://www.supercoproducts.com/Products-HVAC.htm Here's B4: ![]() I sprayed it on lightly, then scrubbed with a nylon brush, then wiped it off with a damp rag. Then after: ![]() I just did the fins on the head. Another thing to try is one of the citrus-based cleaners - I've used them, but the coil cleaner worked better for me on aluminum oxide. What izzit your trying to clean? (We like pictures here HapHazard screwed with this post 01-28-2013 at 02:31 PM |
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01-29-2013, 05:58 PM
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#9 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Near North - Ontario
Oddometer: 20
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Cleaning aluminum
I'm with the acid guys. Autobody metal prep (phosphoric acid in H2O solution) is formulated to remove oxidation without eating the base material. I have cleaned and restored many old and seized SU carb sets using a metal prep bath. Degrease first then soak the surface to be cleaned - time works best to get all the oxidation off but you could substitute some brushing with a nylon brush for a dunking if the parts are too big. Wear safety goggles and watch the clothes. It will eat denim and burn skin.
A hot water rinse works best. Works well even on old airhead engine cases!
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The more I learn about women, the more I love motorcycles! |
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01-29-2013, 06:08 PM
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#10 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: GA
Oddometer: 1,832
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01-29-2013, 06:15 PM
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#11 |
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t00 0ld 2b n00b
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Central CT
Oddometer: 1,294
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I think the Scotchbrite would be the way to go - give you a nice clean brushed finish.
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01-29-2013, 07:05 PM
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#12 |
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A proud pragmatist.
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
Oddometer: 2,860
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Get a buffer and a can of medium polishing compound. You may want to wetsand first at 800-1000x.
Just did a little of that today with my friend's polishing wheel, old Triumph parts....shiny shiny!
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Have tools, will travel!
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01-30-2013, 02:50 AM
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#13 |
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Banned
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Your Back Yard
Oddometer: 6,505
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Aluminum oxide re-forms on exposed aluminum almost as fast as you remove it.
What are you trying to do? |
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01-30-2013, 04:50 AM
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#14 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: GA
Oddometer: 1,832
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01-30-2013, 08:42 AM
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#15 |
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Anatomically Correct
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Chicago-ish
Oddometer: 2,493
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nuther vote for soda blasting . . . . . damn near any other mechanical process will remove material in a linear manner, leaving either a wseries of scratches, or, the horror, a polished surface ;-}
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