New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

[KC-10ENG]

I wish I didn't have to post this here but another radiator bites the dust! My day started out bad but ended well after the radiator was repaired and topped off! The test ride after the repair was 109 miles of double and single track followed up with 35 miles of slab.

[Seth S]

So its fixed again? My radiator was bent around a tree...got fixed and os still on the bike

[Albie]

Originally Posted by Seth S

So its fixed again? My radiator was bent around a tree...got fixed and os still on the bike

I'm on my 3rd radiator and I never hit shit.

[Seth S]

Originally Posted by Albie

I'm on my 3rd radiator and I never hit shit.

Send them to mylers he will fix. Remove the top fan shroud bolts and zip tie instead

[Yellow Pig]

Originally Posted by TheMuffinMan

So rocker arm bearing play. What exactly is to be tested? I want to know personally but since this is one of the main known issues with the bike it'd be great to put a blurb up on the wiki about it as well.

Here is a picture from RoninMoto's (Noah) bike:



You can really see the abnormal wear on the roller.

Some comments made on the roller by Gunnerbuck:

Hi Noah,
It is not common for the valve clearance to loosen and this usually points to other issues... Normal operation and valve wear will drop the valves farther into their seats and thus reducing the clearances to the tappets...

Usually on the 640 and 690 when the clearances open it means that actual cam follower roller needles are on their way out and have developed slop... When it is run closer to the point of failing the cam follower bearing may quit turning altogether and gall up the camshaft lobe... With a keen ear you can usually notice a change to the tappet noise and how it emits a louder klikety klak before it does any damage... The next time you have the rollers exposed try giving them a wiggle to see if there is slop...

A couple of videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBwmIaa0PDk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtwCl_yGa-Y

[Albie]

Originally Posted by Seth S

Send them to mylers he will fix. Remove the top fan shroud bolts and zip tie instead

I gave them back to KTM when they warrantied them. Fixed the fan shroud problem after the first failure. The first replacement rad just spontaneously sprung a leak 2 weeks after it was installed. The second replacement rad sprung a spontaneous leak as well last summer, but I just JB welded that fucker.

[dad2bike]

Is there already a 690 Oil thread? I'll just open up the can of worms in here?
Im using the same oil in my Diesel, Honda cars, RFS bikes & 950A. All with good experience. Long time between changes & higher fuel mileage
It is Synthetic rated at 5W-40.

How critical is the heavier weight for the 690? I see 10W-60 & 10W-50 listed. What keeps me from using the 5W-40?

[Albie]

Originally Posted by Yellow Pig

Here is a picture from RoninMoto's (Noah) bike:



You can really see the abnormal wear on the roller.

Some comments made on the roller by Gunnerbuck:

Hi Noah,
It is not common for the valve clearance to loosen and this usually points to other issues... Normal operation and valve wear will drop the valves farther into their seats and thus reducing the clearances to the tappets...

Usually on the 640 and 690 when the clearances open it means that actual cam follower roller needles are on their way out and have developed slop... When it is run closer to the point of failing the cam follower bearing may quit turning altogether and gall up the camshaft lobe... With a keen ear you can usually notice a change to the tappet noise and how it emits a louder klikety klak before it does any damage... The next time you have the rollers exposed try giving them a wiggle to see if there is slop...

A couple of videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBwmIaa0PDk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtwCl_yGa-Y

Sounds about right, my valves always went to the tight spec. I replaced my rocker arms just because I noticed a little bit of catching when I spun the bearings. Figured since I was replacing everything else in the valve train while I was doing the top end, I may as well replace those.

[Yellow Pig]

How critical is the heavier weight for the 690? I see 10W-60 & 10W-50 listed. What keeps me from using the 5W-40?



I've heard that it's because of the silver bearings that 10W60 is required:

Note that there's some indication that KTM has used silver bearings in the new LC4 motor. Using silver, instead of lead, provides greater strength than any other bearing material, and it also resists corrosion better and is more thermally conductive. Silver bearings are more typically found in heavy duty marine diesels or jet engines. Unfortunately, the detergents in automotive and motorcycle motor oils (primarily ZDDP) will attack and eventually degrade silver unless they are specially stabilized. This may be the reason behind KTM's strong endorsement of the Motorex Cross Power 4T 10W-60."

I'm not sure I really understand why10W60 & silver bearings are connected, but that's what KTM claims.

Some KTM forums thought that the oil was low detergent, low ZDDP, or otherwise stabilized to work with silver-plated bearings.

Here is an interesting oil analysis of the 10W60 that KTM reccomends:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...69#Post1189269







Brand New Motorex 1-W60 Analysis:




Right out of the bottle it doesn't measure as a 60-weight; it looks more like a 15W-50, actually.

[dad2bike]

Interesting. The oil I use (Rotella T-6) is rated at only 1100 ZDDP. That would be even lower than the Motorex at 2600. Hmmm. It seems like some creative marketing going on here.

Found this from bob.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1179563&page=1

It doesn't indicate how long he ran with the conventional oil though. Hmmm

[Dotbond]

Has anyone pulled the front forks apart on the 2012 690?
No-one in NZ has really had a lot of experience with the 690 suspension in general. 50mm race sag and i weigh around 78kg in my birthday suit. Front suspension is way too hard for general off-road riding, they bounce off small stones/bumps instead of soaking up the bumps.
I have been recommended to take out the base valve stack and replace the 0.15 shims with 0.10 shims.

Any ideas/comments welcome.

[dad2bike]

ADV search is being a PITA for me today.
Part of the mods I plan for the bike include the tank bolts. I've got the upper ones on order from twins.
I'm looking at the options for the lower bolt/bolts/bushings. The 690 wiki only had the info on the bushing replace.
Twins has a replacement one piece bolt and long bushing. I recall seeing someplace here a simple mod using a 5/16" long bolt and something for the center bushing. Anybody know the size of that? I hate to shell out $60 (KTMTwins) for $2 in parts.

[SKINNY]

Originally Posted by dad2bike

ADV search is being a PITA for me today.
Part of the mods I plan for the bike include the tank bolts. I've got the upper ones on order from twins.
I'm looking at the options for the lower bolt/bolts/bushings. The 690 wiki only had the info on the bushing replace.
Twins has a replacement one piece bolt and long bushing. I recall seeing someplace here a simple mod using a 5/16" long bolt and something for the center bushing. Anybody know the size of that? I hate to shell out $60 (KTMTwins) for $2 in parts.

I replaced the lower tank bolts with a better grade bolt on my 2008 model and had no more problems...you don't necessarily have to use a thru bolt & nuts...

[MrHix]

I did that simple bolt fix. I drilled the sleeve out CAREFULLY (it is very hard) to fit a 5/16" bolt (Lowes). I put a washer on both ends of the bolt with a nyloc nut to hold it. I don't know how strong the bolt is, but I can replace it every year to maintain a safety margin.



Cheers,

MrHix

[dad2bike]

Originally Posted by MrHix

I did that simple bolt fix. I drilled the sleeve out CAREFULLY (it is very hard) to fit a 5/16" bolt (Lowes). I put a washer on both ends of the bolt with a nyloc nut to hold it. I don't know how strong the bolt is, but I can replace it every year to maintain a safety margin.



Cheers,

MrHix

YES! It was your post I saw.
So you used the existing bushing and drilled it out.
Now I understand. Thanks!
The one from Twins is supposedly a thicker bushing per their write up. Your solution saves a bunch of money for other goodies.