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Old 01-30-2013, 06:55 AM   #2791
Telemarktumalo
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Originally Posted by goondock View Post
Has anyone replaced the brake lines with the steel lines? Is it worth the money? I know ramz did it and has a little write up on the site but more info would be cool. i wouldn't mind getting some better performance in the braking department...


I've noticed the brakes require a good bit of lever effort, especially on fast downhill runs. I seem to have read here somewhere that the brakes get better with miles. Another reason to keep riding.

I am searching for alternatives to the OEM chrome gas cap. It looks a bit hokey and almost seems an afterthought on our red/white/black beauties. I can't believe it is not hinged! Anybody found a good alternative? I'd still like to use the ignition key for security. I suppose I could get the OEM cap powdercoated.... hmmm.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:34 AM   #2792
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Originally Posted by Telemarktumalo View Post

I've noticed the brakes require a good bit of lever effort, especially on fast downhill runs. I seem to have read here somewhere that the brakes get better with miles. Another reason to keep riding.

I am searching for alternatives to the OEM chrome gas cap. It looks a bit hokey and almost seems an afterthought on our red/white/black beauties. I can't believe it is not hinged! Anybody found a good alternative? I'd still like to use the ignition key for security. I suppose I could get the OEM cap powdercoated.... hmmm.

Thanks, I have 900 miles so far and the brakes work decent enough. just wondering if the braided lines are worth it or not.

I second that.. I hate that freaking chrome cap with a passion . I know I know, just ride the bike and forget about what it looks like, or with mud on the cap you cant see what it looks like anyway.. bla bla, but I ride and I get it dirty.. I still hate chrome ha ha ha.. I dont even care if it locks. I considered painting it, maybe a vinyl wrap?
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:44 AM   #2793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goondock View Post
Thanks, I have 900 miles so far and the brakes work decent enough. just wondering if the braided lines are worth it or not.

I second that.. I hate that freaking chrome cap with a passion . I know I know, just ride the bike and forget about what it looks like, or with mud on the cap you cant see what it looks like anyway.. bla bla, but I ride and I get it dirty.. I still hate chrome ha ha ha.. I dont even care if it locks. I considered painting it, maybe a vinyl wrap?

The gas cap might be the same as the XR650L one. If it is there is a black powercoated version.


Braided lines are well worth it. They expand less which improves feel and braking power.

One of the keys to having good brakes is breaking(bedding) them in properly.


Here is a link that explains how to proper /break bed in new brakes. It is for a car just use 45mph instead of 60mph unless hard race type pads are used..

http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

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Old 01-30-2013, 08:02 AM   #2794
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Just a heads up... I started a "CRF250L Engine Control Details and Tech thread"

Here's the link.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=859501

I will add more when I have someone to type for me again...

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Old 01-30-2013, 08:22 AM   #2795
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Originally Posted by MentalGuru View Post
Just a heads up... I started a "CRF250L Engine Control Details and Tech thread"

Here's the link.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=859501

I will add more when I have someone to type for me again...

I added the Abbev. Table from the Helm manual there also, noticed you said you thought it was a PROM PCM rather then an EEPROM, however the table says EEPROM, weather this is better or worse, I'll leave it in your hands (when ya find a typer...) to go into more detail

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Old 01-30-2013, 08:40 AM   #2796
goondock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MentalGuru View Post
The gas cap might be the same as the XR650L one. If it is there is a black powercoated version.


Braided lines are well worth it. They expand less which improves feel and braking power.

One of the keys to having good brakes is breaking(bedding) them in properly.


Here is a link that explains how to proper /break bed in new brakes. It is for a car just use 45mph instead of 60mph unless hard race type pads are used..

http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Thanks Mental
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:42 AM   #2797
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Originally Posted by Bob80 View Post
I added the Abbev. Table from the Helm manual there also, noticed you said you thought it was a PROM PCM rather then an EEPROM, however the table says EEPROM, weather this is better or worse, I'll leave it in your hands (when ya find a typer...) to go into more detail


I saw your post. Thanks, it will cross references the terms I'm using as needed for anyone that needs it.

I'll be adding more info but hope to keep the post on topic. If it does I can fix it thou....


Here's the difference.

PROM is programable read only memory type controller.

EEPROM is eletronicly erasable programable read only memory type controller. This means can be reprogramed/flash programed.

Does the book specifiy which type of memory Honda is using??? I haven't found that out yet.

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Old 01-30-2013, 09:27 AM   #2798
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Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
BUT YES, all road tests I've seen they give the CRF poor marks on the front brakes....one speculated that the pads are probably VERY hard....but be cautious in swapping pads...I put some aftermarket pads on my XR400R...yeah they worked good...but they ATE the $$$$ front rotor....

Lost Rider: You got an opinion on this? Your recent ride looks like it mighta included some significant front brake usage


I think the stock and slightly softer, but the consistent, predictable brakes are just fine as they are on this bike for us, being setup for dirt riding with knobby tires. Now that they are worn in there's more than enough braking power for the available traction aggressive knobbies provide on pavement, and for Nancy not having touchy brakes that would lock up easily on dirt is mo better and safer IMO. The higher performance anything is on a bike, the easier it is for a (new) rider to make mistakes that could be costly. I've seen Nancy crash on my Berg' that has very powerful and sensitive Brembo brakes from locking the front wheel up on gravel, that incident resulted in 5 stitches, same thing with more power on tap that can easily cause a crash when it gets away from you.
The LRP is just right, having enough braking and power to get the job done (having fun) without being too sensitive all around, for us at least. When you're talking about riding dirt, better tires will help more than any brake mods IMO, if there's no traction, then how powerful the brakes are becomes irrelevant.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:52 AM   #2799
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You hit the nail square on the head.

They are built/designed to be forgiving on the brakes. That is why with good traction they lack some power, it's that power that gets new riders in trouble.

Knobby tires and good brakes will get you into trouble quick if your not careful... Trust me I know...

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Old 01-30-2013, 10:17 AM   #2800
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Thanks!

That's why folks should take what the reviewers in MC mags write with a grain of salt as most times they are good riders and while not saying so, they are comparing the bike against higher performance bikes, failing to review bikes like the LRP in a perspective as to who will be buying it or it's true intended design. Less can be more in many situations.

The LRP is perfect for what it is designed to be, not too hot, not too cold, the porridge is just right on this one. When Nancy develops enough skills and has better control, we'll buy a higher performance bike with better brakes, more power, better suspension, etc. because at the end of the day no matter how many upgrades you do to it, it's still a LRP. No sense in building up a $7000, 320+ pound, 25hp dirt bike, for us at least. And basically stock it's just perfect for some time to come and many (s)miles for us. I've never tried to travel on a 250 before, and 'get it' now.... it's a fun bike as it is.











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Old 01-30-2013, 10:47 AM   #2801
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Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
....
And basically stock it's just perfect for some time to come and many (s)miles for us. I've never tried to travel on a 250 before, and 'get it' now.... it's a fun bike as it is.
...
Im not in your shoes, but the 13/42 well worth more than it costs.
Probably the one and only mod really "needed" for this bike.

L
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:53 AM   #2802
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Im not in your shoes, but the 13/42 well worth more than it costs.
Probably the one and only mod really "needed" for this bike.

L


We have a 13t front sprocket, agreed, a must have for dirt riding and great value for the small money spent. If we were commuting only I'd probably leave it alone stock, and doubt we'll change the rear so we can still cruise at 65-70mph on the highway. A good compromise for us.
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:05 AM   #2803
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Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
We have a 13t front sprocket, agreed, a must have for dirt riding and great value for the small money spent. If we were commuting only I'd probably leave it alone stock, and doubt we'll change the rear so we can still cruise at 65-70mph on the highway. A good compromise for us.
I found the 42t filled the gap between 1st and 2nd, if i can say, and allowed the use of it were needed offroad.
Achived up to 85mph with this combo, but obviously not usable on highways (120km/h or 75mph here)...

L
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Krono screwed with this post 01-30-2013 at 11:11 AM
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:33 AM   #2804
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first post so be gentle on me... lol

how do you all do??? i am not an owner of one of these fine bikes, but i have been following this thread like a fly on s***t... everyday i sit down and see whats new in the world of the lrp... so here is a lil background on me... i am a 37yr old father of 2 lil germ bags (6yr old boy and a 3yr old girl)... sold my 1993 klr250 and 1985 cr250 three years ago and have been regretting it since... so i am in the market for another commuter bike i can still play around on (90% on road).... i have just enough money to get the lrp otd at $5483 (with 600 mile oil change and valve adjustment included) from the local dealership... i have all my gear already so i don't have to figure that into the budget... here is my problem... i just found a guys selling a 2012 kawasaki klx250s with 40 miles on it for $4000... saving almost $1100 is huge to me, but $1100 is also worth what my heart wants... (i think!?!?!?! lol) i can jet it, pipe it, and do the air box and smog stuff, rack, skid plate, tail light clean up, hand guards, risers and bars and anything else needed with the extra money left over... my question to you fine ladies and gents is this, would you buy the crf250l for $5483 OTD (but will not have $$$ for upgrades for awhile...) or the 2012 klx250 (40 miles on it) for $4000 plus $300 or so in dmv fees and taxes??? for some reason i am really stuck on this... i have read everything i can, and i do know whats good for you may not be good for me. but i still must ask...
sorry for being so long winded, but my head has been spinning and i also don't want to lose the klx250 deal being as its a new bike for almost $2000 less then the otd price... ($5200 plus all dealer fees and taxes makes it $6000 otd here in dirty jersey.)
any input would be greatly appreciated by me and my hair line... and yes, ive watched the comparison videos and visit this forum, TT forum, and the kawasaki klx250 forum everyday. just kind of in one of those moments in life, where i don't want to jump off the ledge alone... also i know if i don't like the bike, i can sell it and take a very little hit on price. so thats comforting at least... thank you all in advance.

marc
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:36 AM   #2805
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sorry about that... lol

just read my post... WOW... i wrote like one long run on sentence... sorry if its hard to read with my written mental babble...
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