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Old 01-29-2013, 09:10 AM   #6961
dad2bike
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Is there already a 690 Oil thread? I'll just open up the can of worms in here?
Im using the same oil in my Diesel, Honda cars, RFS bikes & 950A. All with good experience. Long time between changes & higher fuel mileage
It is Synthetic rated at 5W-40.

How critical is the heavier weight for the 690? I see 10W-60 & 10W-50 listed. What keeps me from using the 5W-40?
















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Old 01-29-2013, 09:10 AM   #6962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow Pig View Post
Here is a picture from RoninMoto's (Noah) bike:



You can really see the abnormal wear on the roller.

Some comments made on the roller by Gunnerbuck:

Hi Noah,
It is not common for the valve clearance to loosen and this usually points to other issues... Normal operation and valve wear will drop the valves farther into their seats and thus reducing the clearances to the tappets...

Usually on the 640 and 690 when the clearances open it means that actual cam follower roller needles are on their way out and have developed slop... When it is run closer to the point of failing the cam follower bearing may quit turning altogether and gall up the camshaft lobe... With a keen ear you can usually notice a change to the tappet noise and how it emits a louder klikety klak before it does any damage... The next time you have the rollers exposed try giving them a wiggle to see if there is slop...

A couple of videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBwmIaa0PDk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtwCl_yGa-Y
Sounds about right, my valves always went to the tight spec. I replaced my rocker arms just because I noticed a little bit of catching when I spun the bearings. Figured since I was replacing everything else in the valve train while I was doing the top end, I may as well replace those.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:10 AM   #6963
Yellow Pig
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How critical is the heavier weight for the 690? I see 10W-60 & 10W-50 listed. What keeps me from using the 5W-40?



I've heard that it's because of the silver bearings that 10W60 is required:

Note that there's some indication that KTM has used silver bearings in the new LC4 motor. Using silver, instead of lead, provides greater strength than any other bearing material, and it also resists corrosion better and is more thermally conductive. Silver bearings are more typically found in heavy duty marine diesels or jet engines. Unfortunately, the detergents in automotive and motorcycle motor oils (primarily ZDDP) will attack and eventually degrade silver unless they are specially stabilized. This may be the reason behind KTM's strong endorsement of the Motorex Cross Power 4T 10W-60."

I'm not sure I really understand why10W60 & silver bearings are connected, but that's what KTM claims.

Some KTM forums thought that the oil was low detergent, low ZDDP, or otherwise stabilized to work with silver-plated bearings.

Here is an interesting oil analysis of the 10W60 that KTM reccomends:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...69#Post1189269







Brand New Motorex 1-W60 Analysis:




Right out of the bottle it doesn't measure as a 60-weight; it looks more like a 15W-50, actually.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:35 AM   #6964
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Interesting. The oil I use (Rotella T-6) is rated at only 1100 ZDDP. That would be even lower than the Motorex at 2600. Hmmm. It seems like some creative marketing going on here.

Found this from bob.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1179563&page=1

It doesn't indicate how long he ran with the conventional oil though. Hmmm
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dad2bike screwed with this post 01-29-2013 at 10:42 AM
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:54 AM   #6965
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Front forks

Has anyone pulled the front forks apart on the 2012 690?
No-one in NZ has really had a lot of experience with the 690 suspension in general. 50mm race sag and i weigh around 78kg in my birthday suit. Front suspension is way too hard for general off-road riding, they bounce off small stones/bumps instead of soaking up the bumps.
I have been recommended to take out the base valve stack and replace the 0.15 shims with 0.10 shims.

Any ideas/comments welcome.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:00 AM   #6966
dad2bike
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ADV search is being a PITA for me today.
Part of the mods I plan for the bike include the tank bolts. I've got the upper ones on order from twins.
I'm looking at the options for the lower bolt/bolts/bushings. The 690 wiki only had the info on the bushing replace.
Twins has a replacement one piece bolt and long bushing. I recall seeing someplace here a simple mod using a 5/16" long bolt and something for the center bushing. Anybody know the size of that? I hate to shell out $60 (KTMTwins) for $2 in parts.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:36 AM   #6967
SKINNY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
ADV search is being a PITA for me today.
Part of the mods I plan for the bike include the tank bolts. I've got the upper ones on order from twins.
I'm looking at the options for the lower bolt/bolts/bushings. The 690 wiki only had the info on the bushing replace.
Twins has a replacement one piece bolt and long bushing. I recall seeing someplace here a simple mod using a 5/16" long bolt and something for the center bushing. Anybody know the size of that? I hate to shell out $60 (KTMTwins) for $2 in parts.
I replaced the lower tank bolts with a better grade bolt on my 2008 model and had no more problems...you don't necessarily have to use a thru bolt & nuts...
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:36 AM   #6968
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I did that simple bolt fix. I drilled the sleeve out CAREFULLY (it is very hard) to fit a 5/16" bolt (Lowes). I put a washer on both ends of the bolt with a nyloc nut to hold it. I don't know how strong the bolt is, but I can replace it every year to maintain a safety margin.



Cheers,

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Old 01-30-2013, 09:48 AM   #6969
dad2bike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHix View Post
I did that simple bolt fix. I drilled the sleeve out CAREFULLY (it is very hard) to fit a 5/16" bolt (Lowes). I put a washer on both ends of the bolt with a nyloc nut to hold it. I don't know how strong the bolt is, but I can replace it every year to maintain a safety margin.



Cheers,

MrHix
YES! It was your post I saw.
So you used the existing bushing and drilled it out.
Now I understand. Thanks!
The one from Twins is supposedly a thicker bushing per their write up. Your solution saves a bunch of money for other goodies.
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:08 AM   #6970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
Interesting. The oil I use (Rotella T-6) is rated at only 1100 ZDDP. That would be even lower than the Motorex at 2600. Hmmm. It seems like some creative marketing going on here.

Found this from bob.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1179563&page=1

It doesn't indicate how long he ran with the conventional oil though. Hmmm
He does say (66 miles). The previously posted analysis is of unused Motorex 10/60 and the analyst concluded that the factory oil is the Motorex 10/60 oil, not dino oil. This was discussed a lot in the old Mega-thread. The glycol seemed to be an unusual additive. Many of us have seen the You-Tube videos of engine/bike manufacturing at the KTM factory. Each motor is run hard on a dyne after assembly and then run hard on a chassis dyne after the bike is assembled. Leads me to believe the correct thing to do with a new KTM bike is run it hard through 2 or 3 heat cycles to insure rings are seated, then drain the oil and ride normally (different for each of us).
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Old 01-30-2013, 12:23 PM   #6971
dad2bike
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Thanks for the response. It was an old thread. I thought he indicated he was going to go much further. He never followed up with his long term results that I noticed.

My new to me 690 has 8800 miles on it. I think the rings are broken in by now. LOL
With all my reading I haven't found a specific reason for the heavy weight oil. My 950 specs 50w. It seems to be very happy with the 5w40. I'm thinking I will give the T6 a try for a cycle or 2 and see if there is any issues or oil consumption. Go from there.

I've still got packages showing up at the house. Parker 425 this weekend. Next week I get to start tinkering.
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:15 PM   #6972
Baja Dad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad2bike View Post
Thanks for the response. It was an old thread. I thought he indicated he was going to go much further. He never followed up with his long term results that I noticed.

My new to me 690 has 8800 miles on it. I think the rings are broken in by now. LOL
With all my reading I haven't found a specific reason for the heavy weight oil. My 950 specs 50w. It seems to be very happy with the 5w40. I'm thinking I will give the T6 a try for a cycle or 2 and see if there is any issues or oil consumption. Go from there.

I've still got packages showing up at the house. Parker 425 this weekend. Next week I get to start tinkering.
I have used Rotella in all my KTMs from my 150 thru my 640 and now in my 690
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:21 PM   #6973
dad2bike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja Dad View Post
I have used Rotella in all my KTMs from my 150 thru my 640 and now in my 690
Thanks!
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:33 PM   #6974
ten.98
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Question 2012 690 w/Evo2 wont start.

Hey Everybody, I bought a brand new 2012 690 Enduro R a few weeks back and just got a bunch of goodies in the mail for it today. Did the full Evo2 kit w/Akra pipe minus the cam. Did the SAS delete as well as the Canisterectomy as documented along in this thread.

Got it most of the way back together, but figured I'd fire it up and make sure everything was good to go before I put the fairing and whatnot on.

Bike turns over strong but wont fire. I tried starting it before I applied the map with the stock map, then I loaded the Evo map and tried again and nothing. I don't have any codes showing up in TuneECU and all the sensors are showing up fine. Fuel pump even kicks on after about 5-10 seconds of cranking.

Haven't pulled the plug yet to see if I'm getting spark, that will be on the list of things to check tomorrow.

Has anyone run into something like this before or heard of a similar situation?

Jeremy
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:55 PM   #6975
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ten.98 View Post
Hey Everybody, I bought a brand new 2012 690 Enduro R a few weeks back and just got a bunch of goodies in the mail for it today. Did the full Evo2 kit w/Akra pipe minus the cam. Did the SAS delete as well as the Canisterectomy as documented along in this thread.

Got it most of the way back together, but figured I'd fire it up and make sure everything was good to go before I put the fairing and whatnot on.

Bike turns over strong but wont fire. I tried starting it before I applied the map with the stock map, then I loaded the Evo map and tried again and nothing. I don't have any codes showing up in TuneECU and all the sensors are showing up fine. Fuel pump even kicks on after about 5-10 seconds of cranking.

Haven't pulled the plug yet to see if I'm getting spark, that will be on the list of things to check tomorrow.

Has anyone run into something like this before or heard of a similar situation?

Jeremy
Did you load the efi map and the throttle map?
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