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Old 01-28-2013, 04:06 PM   #2101
Randy
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Well, there reason I ask is that, while I'd like to increase my cornering clearance, I've read that anything much over around 13.5" causes interference between the bottom run of the belt and the rear master cylinder, or something in that area. I want to make sure I get as much length as feasible when I spend the cash. Or at least be able to make an informed decision when making my selection.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:27 PM   #2102
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Originally Posted by Randy View Post
Well, there reason I ask is that, while I'd like to increase my cornering clearance, I've read that anything much over around 13.5" causes interference between the bottom run of the belt and the rear master cylinder, or something in that area. I want to make sure I get as much length as feasible when I spend the cash. Or at least be able to make an informed decision when making my selection.
I suppose you can get lowering brackets if you have to. I was trying to decided between 12.5 and 13, as I don't want to deal with belt rubbing, or getting a new kickstand. Still might have to adjust the belt tension, and aim the headlights.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:55 PM   #2103
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Originally Posted by Randy View Post
What shock length is one that bike? It looks really tall in the rear.
The shock length is 15" center top bolt to center lower bolt measured on the bike. The setup works very well for me.

My kick stand is stock - no issues - and the belt just touches the master cylinder bracket with no load on the bike (the belt is very slack too). As soon as you sit on the bike the belt tensions and everything is fine.

The shocks were fitted by the original dealer and the bike's now done 6500 miles. Still the first belt, of course, with no signs of damage or deterioration.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:02 PM   #2104
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Originally Posted by Eye of the Tiger View Post
I suppose you can get lowering brackets if you have to. I was trying to decided between 12.5 and 13, as I don't want to deal with belt rubbing, or getting a new kickstand. Still might have to adjust the belt tension, and aim the headlights.

Yeah, with longer rear shocks you definitely need to check belt tension. With the lowered Harleys, like my 48 and unlike most bikes, due to the swingarm angle the belt tension is actually at its tightest with the suspension at full extension and loosens during suspension compression. On most bikes, and like the one pictured above (and my Buell below), the swingarm is on a downward angle. As it moves up during suspension compression, the axle actually moves father from the output shaft/front sprocket/pulley (tightening the chain/belt) as it reaches a straight line connecting the axle, swingarm pivot and output shaft, then loosening again as it moves up beyond that point. The quickest way to destroy the output shaft bearings is to run the belt too tight.

In fact, it's generally known in the Buell world that the factory belt tension spec is too tight. Many people have had issues after letting the dealer set it to their spec and the recommended tension is to run it quite a bit more loose.

Here's a pic of my S1 with a line drawn in to illustrate the point of max belt tension as the suspension moves through its arc of motion:



And a gratuitous shot of the bike:




But, from what I understand, there isn't an issue with belt interference until you get over 13.5" on the Sportsters. Still like to get that number confirmed as the upper limit though. I fully intend to get the longer jiffy stand from the Roadster once I lengthen the forks and shocks so it will have the proper lean angle when parked up on the stand, though.

I'm not sure what would happen with a longer shock and lowering blocks though. It could allow for a longer stroke shock and work out fine... Then again, the leverage ratios would be different so it could screw up the spring and damping rates. I'd prefer to stick with the stock mounting points and just get the correct shock sprung and valved for my weight and riding style.


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Old 01-28-2013, 07:14 PM   #2105
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bk brkr baker screwed with this post 01-28-2013 at 07:20 PM
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:50 PM   #2106
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:28 AM   #2107
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NO baffle in that Kerker? That's gotta be loud!!
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:33 AM   #2108
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There's a baffle, just not an endcap. Its a bassani, and not too loud at all. Somewhere between stock and the SE II slip ons I had on it before.
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:39 AM   #2109
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NO baffle in that Kerker? That's gotta be loud!!
The life saver edition...
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:19 PM   #2110
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I finally have my 1200! Ordered early december and delivered, with all work on it done, last week! Paint job, tuning, some add-ons. For now I'm all set, except for the weather, which sucks big time for the coming weeks. No riding, just lurking in the garage :)









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Old 01-29-2013, 01:51 PM   #2111
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Man you post some cool photos from the day

Thanks.



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Old 01-29-2013, 02:50 PM   #2112
woodnbow
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Originally Posted by pvt joker View Post
There's a baffle, just not an endcap. Its a bassani, and not too loud at all. Somewhere between stock and the SE II slip ons I had on it before.
I had a Bub's 7 on a Dyna I once owned, they are a good pipe, run much better than the typical 2 into 2 setups. Nice sound too. That's a good looking bike..
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:19 PM   #2113
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:10 AM   #2114
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Hey folks,

I'm looking at getting a Sporty this spring, I love the 883 Iron. Its an awesome looking bike. I was wondering if there are any, or much difference in the ride quality of that vs the 1200 custom, other than the power difference and the tank size. I'm 6ft and 180lbs. Thanks
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:07 AM   #2115
Randy
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Hey folks,

I'm looking at getting a Sporty this spring, I love the 883 Iron. Its an awesome looking bike. I was wondering if there are any, or much difference in the ride quality of that vs the 1200 custom, other than the power difference and the tank size. I'm 6ft and 180lbs. Thanks
I don't know that it'll help since I haven't ridden a Custom, but I did ride an Iron, back to back with a 48. As you mentioned, there was a power difference. At urban speeds it didn't feel like as much of a difference as I would have thought though. I believe the Iron is geared lower so around town it was fine, but I got the impression that it would run out of oomph sooner than the larger 1200 and would probably be more noticeable at highway speeds.

Ride quality wise, I didn't detect a difference but the seat on the Iron felt better. Then again, the Iron had mid controls and the 48 had forwards (that's why I rode them both actually) so that may have contributed to the difference I felt in the seat comfort. I felt more natural and comfortable and really enjoyed the ride on the Iron more. I have since changed out the controls on my 48 to mids and all is well.

With that said, the ride quality on both absolutely SUCKS! As soon as I can afford it I'm planning to upgrade my suspension to Ohlins in the rear and Rico Intiminators and new springs in the forks.

Not sure about the dealers in Canada, but here it's pretty easy to get a test ride. All I needed was my motorcycle endorsement on my license and proof of motorcycle insurance. If possible I'd recommend you just do as I did and take a spin on both, back to back and see which you like for yourself.


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