nwgs motorhome addiction and therapy thread

[hppyfngy]

Originally Posted by team ftb

Since I will be carrying the dirt bike on a rear hitch carrier I guess I could mount the generator and a fuel can on the front bumpoer. Anyone see issues with this set-up?

That heater is exactly what I was thinking if I put together my own rig. i hear 110V small fridges are cheap compared to the propane fridges. Any insight on if I have to keep the 110V fridges as level as the propane fridges when running them?

I've carried the generator inside the van. It doesn't smell or leak at all. I wouldn't want to carry a gas can inside though. Honestly, I'd rather get a cheap little utility trailer to put that and my bike on though. One of the only things I worry about with the generator is it "walking away" while I'm having a meal somewhere. Sure you could carry it on the front.

Don't know much about those little 110V fridges but I'm pretty sure they don't care how level they are.

[EvilClown]

Originally Posted by cjbiker

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=855069

If it wouldn't cost me another $2k to fly out and drive it home, I'd own this now

Here you go, CJ.

Originally Posted by Robb McElroy

It is awesome. And cheap.

Only a little over a day away.

[cjbiker]

Originally Posted by EvilClown

Here you go, CJ.



Only a little over a day away.

That is too cool. Good thing I could live in it, 'cause I wouldn't be living in the house if I dragged it home

[team ftb]

Originally Posted by McNeal

. (2) Do you really want to carry a gas can on your front bumper that will be the first thing crushed in an accident?

hmmmm.

[team ftb]

Originally Posted by hppyfngy

I've carried the generator inside the van. It doesn't smell or leak at all. I wouldn't want to carry a gas can inside though. Honestly, I'd rather get a cheap little utility trailer to put that and my bike on though. One of the only things I worry about with the generator is it "walking away" while I'm having a meal somewhere. Sure you could carry it on the front.

Don't know much about those little 110V fridges but I'm pretty sure they don't care how level they are.

I was hoping a large chain and padlock would keep most people away on the trip. Once back in town it goes back inside.

[Da Bear]

It's been a little over a month or so since we brought our 2003 Newmar Dutchstar home and parked it in the driveway. Since our driveway is just dirt, with a thin layer of crushed rock over it, I made a set of four 12"x12"x4" pads out of pressure treated lumber and positioned them under the jacks before activating them. In no time at all, we were nice and level, and the slides were out. last week I was doing some work changing a set of blinds over the galley window ( I hate those metal mini blinds,and I had a nice honeycombed Bali that fit perfectly in the space and matched too boot) all of a sudden, the rig lurched at the back, and there was an awful sound .It was well after dark by this time so I grabbed my flash light and went out into the rain(This is Oregon after all) got down on the ground and shined it on the right rear jack. I couldn't crawl under there, but everything looked stable enough to wait 'til daylight.
The next morning I went out to survey the damage. I won't repeat what I said. However, a 2 foot across sink-hole, about 18 inches deep had opened up under the jack.You can imagine the words that came forth. We had some sewer work done a few years ago and there must have been a void in there just waiting for 16,000 pounds of RV to find it. The pad I had made, in this instance did more harm than good, as the hole opened up in just the right place for it to tilt into the hole, causing the foot to come off the jack. The end of the hydraulic piston was embedded deep in the hole where I couldn't see it. I retracted the jacks. they all came up except that one. Ok Plan "B" owners manual, manual retraction, ok got it. followed them to the letter. No good. OK, plan "C" Start up rig let suspension air bags fill. unit lifts. Place filler in hole then set 2x6 chunk between it and jack piston. dump air, forcing piston upwards. Repeat as needed until levelling system warning light goes out and shrill alarm stops. reversed all of the instructions on the manual retraction. and now we're ready to roll, from the looks of things, I'm going to at least need a new retractor spring. I hope to hell those feet are designed to do what this one did. A new jack would be a serious pain right now. I'll get under it again tomorrow when I can get it onto solid concrete and try to get the foot back in place......

[MeanMoe]

Originally Posted by Da Bear

It's been a little over a month or so since we brought our 2003 Newmar Dutchstar home and parked it in the driveway. Since our driveway is just dirt, with a thin layer of crushed rock over it, I made a set of four 12"x12"x4" pads out of pressure treated lumber and positioned them under the jacks before activating them. In no time at all, we were nice and level, and the slides were out. last week I was doing some work changing a set of blinds over the galley window ( I hate those metal mini blinds,and I had a nice honeycombed Bali that fit perfectly in the space and matched too boot) all of a sudden, the rig lurched at the back, and there was an awful sound .It was well after dark by this time so I grabbed my flash light and went out into the rain(This is Oregon after all) got down on the ground and shined it on the right rear jack. I couldn't crawl under there, but everything looked stable enough to wait 'til daylight.
The next morning I went out to survey the damage. I won't repeat what I said. However, a 2 foot across sink-hole, about 18 inches deep had opened up under the jack.You can imagine the words that came forth. We had some sewer work done a few years ago and there must have been a void in there just waiting for 16,000 pounds of RV to find it. The pad I had made, in this instance did more harm than good, as the hole opened up in just the right place for it to tilt into the hole, causing the foot to come off the jack. The end of the hydraulic piston was embedded deep in the hole where I couldn't see it. I retracted the jacks. they all came up except that one. Ok Plan "B" owners manual, manual retraction, ok got it. followed them to the letter. No good. OK, plan "C" Start up rig let suspension air bags fill. unit lifts. Place filler in hole then set 2x6 chunk between it and jack piston. dump air, forcing piston upwards. Repeat as needed until levelling system warning light goes out and shrill alarm stops. reversed all of the instructions on the manual retraction. and now we're ready to roll, from the looks of things, I'm going to at least need a new retractor spring. I hope to hell those feet are designed to do what this one did. A new jack would be a serious pain right now. I'll get under it again tomorrow when I can get it onto solid concrete and try to get the foot back in place......

Glad you were able to get it retracted. Our RV parking area looks like pothole city. My best guess is that the contractor failed to compact the grading before the 6" slab was poured. The jacks have made several holes even with pads underneath. I'd love to replace the whole section but don't have the coin. Will patch and use wider pads.

[LC Garage]

Originally Posted by LC Garage

Joz, good stuff! Thanks to you and the others for chiming in, this is just the kind of help I was hoping for.

1. Checking voltage, this unit is in storage, will go down this weekend and check the voltage. I see one connector going into the furnace, can I just separate the connector and check the voltage at that point?

2a thru 2d. We have propane, I ran the stove top to verify. I have manipulated the valve at the furnace from an inward position to an outward position (rotated counterclockwise) and am ASS-uming there is propane present. there is no evidence (sight or sound) of the igniter trying to light.

3. Will be taking a shop vac down this weekend and cleaning out all hoses and orifices.

Will do the due dilligence but believe the furace will be coming out, at this point if furnace is removed, I'll just plan on installing a new sail switch and limit switch, no point going that far and then scrimping on a couple of key and relatively inexpensive parts.

Is there a good source (online) to buy the switches?

Thanks again to all of you who weighed in on this, I will update with results as this progresses.

Voltage at furnace connector with engine off and not plugged into shore power is 10 volts, plugged into shore power it is 12 volts. Since almost any testing or diagnosis requires pulling the furnace, I've ordered a sail switch (odds are that is the problem) as well as a limit switch, when those arrive will pull furnace, check and replace switches, clean everything and re-install. Hopefully the next report will be with a working furnace. Thanks again for the tips and help!

[smoky]

Some time ago, I found a line of well respected diesel pushers. The model I liked was about 40', with an entry at the front.

The ones I could afford, were made in the late 80's and early 90's.

They look like a Bluebird Wonderlodge. All metal construction, no slideouts.

I can't remember what they are called, anybody help me??

[FAW3]

Originally Posted by smoky

Some time ago, I found a line of well respected diesel pushers. The model I liked was about 40', with an entry at the front.

The ones I could afford, were made in the late 80's and early 90's.

They look like a Bluebird Wonderlodge. All metal construction, no slideouts.

I can't remember what they are called, anybody help me??

Inital thoughts....

All metal...entry at front: perhaps a converted MCI or Prevost? Conversions were done by several firms, some on new coaches and some after service. Wide range of interiors/plans.

All metal...most made with mid entry: Newell.

Or could be a Wanderlodge...my FC is the "school bus" style...in late 80's BlueBird changed chassis/bodys to resemble the mainline RV style. These were typically 40'...the telling of most Wanderlodges of this era is the distinctive "goat rail" around the roof perimeter and a sturdy rear ladder for the heavy alum. plate roof deck and two spotlights on the front.

If you go to Wanderlodge Owners Group and look at the coaches for sale...you will see a range of the styles. A site for many other brands (Prevost/MCI) is busforsale.com

[smoky]

Thanks Faw3 ,

I found what I was looking for: it's the Foretravel U320.

I especially like the above model, built after 1996.

I start my inquiries now, I hope they have a good reputation.

Smoky

[PirateJohn]

Originally Posted by smoky

Thanks Faw3 ,

I found what I was looking for: it's the Foretravel U320.

I especially like the above model, built after 1996.

I start my inquiries now, I hope they have a good reputation.

Smoky

We were discussing these earlier on some of the RV threads. Nice, premium motorhomes that were built in a bewildering variety of sizes and engines in the 1990s. But they aren't steel construction, they are FRP bodied on a variety of chassis.


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[smoky]

So I'm new to this. Is FRP a much poorer construction?

I've been comparing the Bluebirds to the Foretravel. I really like the looks and interiors of the Foretravels. But are the Bluebirds a better coach, and all steel construction?

Can you direct me to a good forum on these topics?

Many thanks.

[PirateJohn]

FRP isn't as sturdy and can delaminate. Once water gets inside the layers the wood paneling (assuming they used wood sheets, which is common in boat construction) can deteriorate quickly.

Steel is sturdier. There are plenty of stories of Wanderlodge owners surviving crashes, hurricanes, and fallen trees that would have seriously damaged or destroyed a lessor motorhome.

With all of that said Wanderlodge was about the last holdout for steel construction and there is a reason for that - steel is hugely heavy, and you get a vehicle with relatively poor fuel mileage (expect about 4.5 mph for a PT series Wanderlodge and maybe 8-9 for a Forward Control). That, and as slideouts became popular the extra weight was just unmanageable.

So you pays your money and you takes your choices. Foretravels have a reputation for being a really nice FRP build but you probably want to look at the individual unit before any money changes hands.

Ditto with Wanderlodges - that steel body usually holds up well but sometimes everything else has been neglected.


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[Patrick46]

Originally Posted by PirateJohn

FRP isn't as sturdy and can delaminate. Once water gets inside the layers the wood paneling (assuming they used wood sheets, which is common in boat construction) can deteriorate quickly.

Steel is sturdier. There are plenty of stories of Wanderlodge owners surviving crashes, hurricanes, and fallen trees that would have seriously damaged or destroyed a lessor motorhome.

With all of that said Wanderlodge was about the last holdout for steel construction and there is a reason for that - steel is hugely heavy, and you get a vehicle with relatively poor fuel mileage (expect about 4.5 mph for a PT series Wanderlodge and maybe 8-9 for a Forward Control). That, and as slideouts became popular the extra weight was just unmanageable.

So you pays your money and you takes your choices. Foretravels have a reputation for being a really nice FRP build but you probably want to look at the individual unit before any money changes hands.

Ditto with Wanderlodges - that steel body usually holds up well but sometimes everything else has been neglected.


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4.5 MPH????.....WOW!!


I figured that if you drove that slowly, you'd get much higher FUEL MILEAGE!!

(fixed for yas)