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Old 01-04-2013, 01:42 PM   #151
Krasniewski OP
I don't ride much.
 
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Joined: Feb 2008
Location: LA - Lower Alabama
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Ok - FINALLY tackled the fuel weep... was not really fun.

Just happened to run across an in-line valve at Trophy Cycles in El Cajon (awesome place, BTW).



Cut that baby in half and tigged her in:


The nipples tigged in reallllly easily and the welds looked nice!

I cut out the old brass nipples and tigged a plate over where they used to be. This was less easy, and the welds did not look nice - I ground them down a little.

The tank held water OK, so I put it all back together and had some leaks in both weld areas...

Pulled it all apart and it took a few tries to get it right, but I eventually got there. Doesn't look very nice, but I'm very happy to have finished it.

Best of all, I rearranged the way the aux tank sits so that the fuel line is no longer vulnerable in case of a crash.

I think the bike's good to go now - nothing really left that doesn't sit well with me. Maybe one day I'll dyno her, get a couple more ponies in there somewhere.

Krasniewski screwed with this post 01-04-2013 at 02:07 PM
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:51 PM   #152
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2-300 miles today of twisty black ribbon. Cold out - started snowing at one point and there was snow in the ditch. Fun ride though! Good times with good friends.

Had an 'oh shit' moment as the rear tire is a little slick in the wet, but all's well that ends well.





Also, leaned the bike out off-idle on the PC map - she's much smoother off-idle now and doesn't even stutter (she used to while warming up for the first mile or so). I *think* I fixed the deccel rich pop with the map now... the problem was that I was only modding the 0% throttle part of the fuel map, when at idle, the bike is showing 1% throttle or so, not zero. So, to fix the pop, I leaned out the 0 and 2% columns.


I bought "KLEEN" - which is a tank treatment that should fill in the gaps to use on the aux fuel pump tank. So far the treatment looks like it worked. Pretty much all the issues are resolved now!

Krasniewski screwed with this post 01-10-2013 at 01:35 PM
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Old 01-27-2013, 02:23 PM   #153
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Location: LA - Lower Alabama
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Lots of rain the last few days - the plastic guard I made for the filter was lacking for filter protection, and the rear wheel was kicking up lots of water onto the top of the seat - so I made a new rear fender out of the stock front fender. It doesn't look sweet (no kidding, eh?), but I hope that this fixes both issues. Also, this one will keep junk off the rear shock, as an added bonus.



EDIT: Added photo - also bought dash fasteners to plug the holes. I bought the biggest I could find, but they were still too small. I'm trying not to resort to duct tape... maybe electrical tape will do.

I took and added pics of the frame welds and added them to earlier parts of this thread.

Krasniewski screwed with this post 02-03-2013 at 07:35 AM
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Old 02-02-2013, 05:18 PM   #154
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Ok, windscreen buffeting has never really bothered me before. I've had enough of it on this bike though - not because it's uncomfortable, but it's just SO LOUD. I read the other day that a tall screen (which I already have) with a laminar lip (85 bucks from Happy Trail solves the issue. 85 bones (or clams, or whatever you call them) is worth it, but I'm moving here soon-like, so I was going to wait to buy it until I get into the new house...

...until, I ran across the factory screen while moving stuff from the garage to the new storage unit. Maybe I can just make one???

Can't be that hard - so I cut some plastic off the bottom of the screen with a band saw, and remove the backside vinyl; the leftover residue comes of with great difficulty, even with GooGone. The plastic I cut off will later be needed... in my infinite wisdom I broke the screen while drilling. Using the plastic as backing, I riveted it back together. Unsightly, but functional... I don't care what motor is in there - it's still a KLR at heart.




Some scrap steel tubing will do the job - cut and waiting for paint:




Assembled:




A short test ride proves my troubles to be over... with wind noise anyway. Still thinking about getting the mapping set with a Dyno... I think I should sync the TB's first though. I've never done it - read about it a few times though. Seems simple, but it's been busy here lately.

Oh, forgot to mention, seeings how this is now my mx log - fresh oil today! 11.5k on the clock (not actual), which means 2.5k since the last oil change, I think. She probably didn't need new lube, but I like the way she shifts with new stuff and I'm losing my garage soon - so why not? Doubled up crush washers this time, since I really had to tighten the plug last time to keep her from leaking (thanks to my drain shortening shenanigans). What a day... great success, all around.


Krasniewski screwed with this post 02-03-2013 at 07:37 AM
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:32 AM   #155
kellymac530
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Just some blue RTV in those fender holes to finish the seal off
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:23 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellymac530 View Post
Just put some blue RTV in those fender holes to finish the seal off
Good one - thanks!

I can't believe the amount of stuff I don't think of... or even know exists...
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:46 AM   #157
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http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80022.../dp/B0002UEOKK



If you fill the hole and spread it out slightly past the hole on each side so it grips and can not fall out, it shoouldd be good.
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:51 AM   #158
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Thanks - I have some red, but blue may be worth the purchase...

EDIT: Ordered some and got it in - color matches right up!

Krasniewski screwed with this post 03-06-2013 at 06:12 PM
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:25 PM   #159
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Location: LA - Lower Alabama
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Been a while since I've done anything but ride this bike. Been putting in all my time on finishing up my Scrambler project.

Tonight I busted out my buddy's borrowed carb stix (Motion Pro Tool) and tried to sync TB's for the first time. I can't figure it out - it seems the suction is simply too high for this tool. The Motion Pro website says "maximum vacuum rating for this tool is 40cm Hg" - service manual says that a 650R standard is 26.5cm Hg" +/- 1cm.... so that's not quite right... unless my custom intakes are jacking this up.

Anyway, ran through everything a few times. The brass jets are in the lines, the adjuster screws are properly set... I'm just miffed. The tool worked on my buddy's bikes previously... I give up.

Anyway, been thinking about having the wheels relaced... 18" rear, 19" front in tubeless would be great, IMO. I can't go too much wider though...

Krasniewski screwed with this post 03-21-2013 at 08:34 PM
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:49 PM   #160
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Well, this morning I put the tank and seat back on with no joy on the carb balance. I did, however, use a vacuum tube and connect the vacuum ports between the throttle bodies after seeing an interesting thread that I stumbled upon in some kwakker archive. I had an FZ1 once that had this done so I felt it was a good idea.

Had to work today, but took the lil' lady to Lee's Cycle Service. I've been trying to drop her off for a Saturday Dyno for a while now, but can never seem to get my ducks in a row for that. Now that I have my Scrambler project in riding condition, I figured I'd just drop her off and let them get to it when they can. On the way out, I was a little impressed that the KLRE did seem to be smoother and more responsive in the lower revs thanks to that carb link.

Anyway, the shop is pretty cool - not huge, but LOTS of customer bikes there - mostly sport/track bikes. I don't know how it's possible, but they said to look for my bike to be done Tuesday. The guys there were cool and all knew what they were talking about which was awesome - not something you often run into. They didn't laugh at my bike to my face, which I appreciated. High hopes for this dyno tune!

Also today I called Lemon Grove Cycle Supply (might now just be called Grove Motorcycle?) and talked to a nice fella' by the name of Chris about possibly relacing my wheels. They apparently do a lot of that kind of thing and are local, so I hit him up with some questions.

I want to go tubeless and 19/18" wheels, but the tubeless seems tougher than I thought. I thought I might get on the KTM/Guzzi train with the O-ring sealed spoked rim jobs or even a BMW type rim onto my stock hub. He said no joy on that but he had heard of people sealing their rims with adhesive with mixed results. I found THIS related ADV thread.

So, I thought maybe I'd have him re-lace my wheels, then I would seal them, but someone on that thread made a good point, that you might not want to try to seal a new rim, as things need to settle in. I you seal a new rim, you're likely to develop a leak in the first few thousand miles. Don't know how valid that concern is, but whatever. Also, if you seal the spokes directly, that doesn't allow for spoke adjustment... seems bad, but I don't think I've ever adjusted the spokes on this bike anyway. The only time I've done any spoke tightening is after flogging an old dirt bike.

Thoughts are welcome...


EDIT: Came across this conversion. Interesting, but no mention of price. As expected, no mention of the mighty KLR here, but maybe they have something that could work, especially if I'm going to a new rim.

OR, I could just be like everyone else and ship the hubs out to Woody's. They seal rims as well as it turns out... for $99 each.

What I'll likely do is order a new rear tire, which I need anyway, and try to seal the rear myself. We'll see about updating the front later, when the tire wears down.

Krasniewski screwed with this post 03-23-2013 at 11:04 PM
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:14 AM   #161
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Tubeless

Have you seen this? www.tubliss.com
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:34 AM   #162
Krasniewski OP
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Originally Posted by KLRsys View Post
Have you seen this? www.tubliss.com
Yep. I have two issues with those. One is the pain of installation and tire changes.




The other issue, and much more importantly, is that the system is not available for a 17" rim.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...liss-Core.aspx



Other than that - seems like a great system and I think it's a good value. I've never heard anything bad about them.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:24 PM   #163
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Wow - just saw a whole lotta farkles available for the KLR on the Procycle site - I love how they have it broken down by bike. Everything on that page fits my bike - which is awesome since often you see cool stuff but it doesn't fit the KLR.

Regardless of what I do about the wheels, I'm likely to upgrade the front brake with the Warp9 front rotor kit on that Procycle site... one may or may not have been ordered. I still hate the front brake - so weak. This will most certainly help... I wonder what kind of difference a 19" wheel and a new rotor will make...
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:11 PM   #164
Krasniewski OP
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A little more power, but much more rideable. Smoother all around - I like it.



Still unsure of what to do about the wheels, I need to make a decision soon though. I liberated the front hub - I'll definitely go for a 19" rim, possibly a little wider. I'm up against another (short) deployment, so I don't think I have time to send the stuff off to Woody's. To be honest, I'm not 100% sure it's worth the money considering I'm not too hard on bikes and the cost is really high.

I may just have the front relaced locally and try to seal the rims myself for a tubeless conversion.
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:39 PM   #165
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Well, pulled the trigger on the front rim. I took the hub to Lemon Grove Cycle and hopefully I sell a new wheel here shortly. I went with a wider rim (2.5") so that I can run a 110 front tire for more road grip as well. I would have liked to spruce up the rear as well, but I think the factory rims are aluminum anyway, so I don't see much bang for the buck in redoing the rear, although stainless spokes would be nice.

The rear rim in the meantime got the old rubber stripped, wheel checked for damaged/loose spokes, and cleaned up (relatively speaking).

I got the rear rim cleaned up with WD-40, sand paper, a wire brush, and denatured alcohol. I also bought "amazing goop" (recommended for sealing rims in the aforementioned ADV thread), so I'll be ready to rock as soon as the new front comes in. I figured I should both wheels at the same time.

New rear tires is here - front is on order. Once I start the sealing process I'll try to take pics.
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