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Old 02-03-2013, 10:09 AM   #5146
Poweranger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LI LT Owner View Post
Fired up the new heater today :



20,000 BTUs of sweet heat had the garage toasty in under 10 minutes. Once I insulate and install wallboard, it will warm up even faster.

I'm torn between doing 5/8 sheetrock or tongue and groove panel siding.

Do you have a problem with condensation in the garage using that ventless heater? I had one in my last garage and couldn't use it more than 10-15 minutes with out every thing ending up wet.
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:26 AM   #5147
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That would explain the bubbled and peeling chips of wood I had when I tried the latex primer first. I didn't realize it was actually because water is used in the manufacturing process.
I, once, had a supervisor take me through an OSB plant, while I was there. I was blown away by how much water went into the production of a sheet. It's a great, recycling use of wood chips.

I, periodically, work for a painter. Any kind of instantly-water-affected products or water-caused stains will be susceptible to water, in the future. Therefore, it has to be sealed with oil-based primer, before applying anything latex.

I'll try to remember to take a camera over to his shop, next time, and get pictures of the texture we put over his OSB. It's difficult to tell that OSB was used and not drywall. It looks really nice and finished. I think if more people see what can be done with it, they "might" more readily consider using it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poweranger View Post
Do you have a problem with condensation in the garage using that ventless heater? I had one in my last garage and couldn't use it more than 10-15 minutes with out every thing ending up wet.
I've seen that a lot, in sealed areas. The space definitely needs some kind of airflow, to rid the moisture.
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:29 AM   #5148
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WOW!!!!
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:40 AM   #5149
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Originally Posted by Poweranger View Post
Do you have a problem with condensation in the garage using that ventless heater? I had one in my last garage and couldn't use it more than 10-15 minutes with out every thing ending up wet.
I do get some condensation on windows but not to bad. it was about 20 degrees yesterday and it was a slight mist on the windows.

As for the piping being galvanized- I dunno. I paid the propane company to plumb it to code so I think so. Town Inspector passed it one, two, three and I'se got heat! Good Enough for me!
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:33 PM   #5150
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Crap! Poweranger jinxed me!!!!!

I had the heat on in the Mancave for about an hour and sure enough- condensation on the tank and the engine covers on the R bike. WTF do I do now?
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:57 PM   #5151
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Originally Posted by LI LT Owner View Post
Crap! Poweranger jinxed me!!!!!

I had the heat on in the Mancave for about an hour and sure enough- condensation on the tank and the engine covers on the R bike. WTF do I do now?
Sorry! Check your tool box also. I ended up spending a lot of time wiping tools down with wd40 after using that heater. Some of them still ended up with a little rust. Since you already have gas line in it wouldn't be hard to plumb in a forced air heater or overhead radiant like I used. The heater will cost much more than those ventless ones. But if you want to spend much time wrenching in the cold it is worth it IMO.
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:42 PM   #5152
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Originally Posted by LI LT Owner View Post
Crap! Poweranger jinxed me!!!!!

I had the heat on in the Mancave for about an hour and sure enough- condensation on the tank and the engine covers on the R bike. WTF do I do now?
Don't use it or change your heater like I have to.

Keep the pics coming Poweranger. Nice garage.

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Old 02-03-2013, 02:29 PM   #5153
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Sweet shop! A man that has his own crapper is very happy. I almost expected a latte machine and microwave on the counter...

Darren

*It's a KLR, I'll catch up*


I must admit the crapper was what really completes the place. And it was the last thing I put in. It should have been the second thing behind the Kegerator. Look at the pictures again the microwave is above the fridge. The coffee maker is on the counter also.
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:54 PM   #5154
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Here are few more build photos. Since I am on the subject of crappers here is how I did my septic. Very basic set up.

Single 4" drain with a Y for the 2" sink drain. The blue PEX line is the water line coming in from the house. I had that buried a few months prior when we did other excavation work for the house.



The drain from the barn. Only about 12' from the barn to tank. I vented the drain just outside the barn.



500 gallon tank I managed to salvage. It had big cracks and no lid. I repaired the cracks with construction adhesive and made up a lid from a 55 gallon drum lid. Someday I will get around and pour a more permanent concrete lid. The metal drum lid will eventually rust away. I ran a single drain field 30' long. You can kinda see it behind the propane tank.



I had enough drain stone left over from the septic on the house to finish this project.

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Old 02-03-2013, 04:00 PM   #5155
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Originally Posted by LI LT Owner View Post
As for the piping being galvanized- I dunno. I paid the propane company to plumb it to code so I think so. Town Inspector passed it one, two, three and I'se got heat! Good Enough for me!
I'd go to your town inspector and double-check what is code, before closing it in, just in case. I've encountered work from licensed contractors that wasn't to code. Likewise, one hopes the inspector is squared away, as well.

The use of galvanized versus black pipe comes down to the potential flaking and deterioration of galvanized causing plugged gas orifices and, also, the different strengths in the respective fittings. Where I live, black iron is code for gas; galvanized is only code for water.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LI LT Owner View Post
I had the heat on in the Mancave for about an hour and sure enough- condensation on the tank and the engine covers on the R bike. WTF do I do now?
Because you're not continuously running your heat, the colder, metal items are going to condensate, when you kick on the heat. That's just the way it is.
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Old 02-03-2013, 05:03 PM   #5156
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I'd go to your town inspector and double-check what is code, before closing it in, just in case. I've encountered work from licensed contractors that wasn't to code. Likewise, one hopes the inspector is squared away, as well.

The use of galvanized versus black pipe comes down to the potential flaking and deterioration of galvanized causing plugged gas orifices and, also, the different strengths in the respective fittings. Where I live, black iron is code for gas; galvanized is only code for water.



Because you're not continuously running your heat, the colder, metal items are going to condensate, when you kick on the heat. That's just the way it is.
When the inspector came to do the final mechanical / plumbing inspection on my house he walked in, peeked under the kitchen sink, then went down stairs and slapped a sticker on the water heater. I estimated his total time for the final inspection at about 150 seconds. I wouldn't even trust an inspector to pick up bad work from the contractor. IIRC I did read that some gas was ok for galvanized pipe but can't remember what the circumstance was. I was always told the rule of thumb was black pipe and some types of copper. I buried copper pipe from the tank to the regulator on the building about 12" deep. I hope it was ok to use the copper for this?


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Old 02-03-2013, 05:30 PM   #5157
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The copper should be OK, my line from tank to furnace is copper, over twenty years and no issues.
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Old 02-03-2013, 05:31 PM   #5158
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Here are few more build pics.

I installed a floor drain in the shop area before we poured the floor. Floor drains are ok by code here except that they must drain out in the open or be vented where ever they end up so gas or oil fumes can not build up. I do not plan on ever pouring gas down my floor drain so I didn't vent it.





I had a old washer and dryer sitting in storage for ten years so I plumbed in a floor drain in the bathroom and a drain for the washer. All tied in to the main floor drain.



The concrete work. Worked on this for two days in 100 degree heat. Not fun!





Finished drive.




Here is sorta a birds eye view. Notice the snow guards I have on the roof. I did not install these until the second winter. I learned when metal roofs get a little sun all the snow comes off. And it comes off all at once. You do not want to be standing under it. It shakes the entire building when all that weight leaves at once. Then it piles up in front of the doors and being a little wet from the warm metal it refreezes into a solid chunk of ice in front of the doors. I wish I had video of it.



Here is what it looks like when it starts. It inches slowly for a few hours then it all goes in one big slide.



I needed some trees in the front so I looked around trying to get a tree spade. I had access to trees that the power company was going to take down for a new power line a mile down the road. Some companies wanted up to 150 bucks a tree to move them 1 mile! I could rent one for 600 bucks a weekend from the bobcat dealer. I searched craiglist and found a guy that would do it for 600. Saved me the time of picking up the machine and doing it myself! He grabbed the trees loaded the machine up and drove the mile back and forth until all were planted.



The trees all in. We moved 15 of those large ones to different locations around the property.

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Old 02-03-2013, 05:31 PM   #5159
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Originally Posted by shovelmike View Post
The copper should be OK, my line from tank to furnace is copper, over twenty years and no issues.
Good to hear.
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Old 02-03-2013, 06:15 PM   #5160
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Originally Posted by Poweranger View Post
IIRC I did read that some gas was ok for galvanized pipe but can't remember what the circumstance was. I was always told the rule of thumb was black pipe and some types of copper. I buried copper pipe from the tank to the regulator on the building about 12" deep. I hope it was ok to use the copper for this?
Yeah, it has to do with sulfur content and the source of one's gas. I'm not up on all the different standards with NG versus LP or even what the current, accepted standards are. I live in a small town that is behind the times. We don't even have inspectors to enforce our codes. Even if we did, I wouldn't trust 'em, based on what I've seen from our city engineer.
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