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Old 01-31-2013, 08:44 AM   #16
mtndayrider
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This awesome.

Go SPO Go
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:38 PM   #17
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My anxiety shocked me awake. I woke up thinking about all the little things that constitute a successful road trip. First thing on the list: tire change. I've helped change some motorcycle tires before, but hadn't ever changed the rubber on this bike. I did all I could to make the old tires that I had on the bike last through the road portion of my journey. I'd be lying if I said that I didn't think about an old tire blowing out in the desert heat on my way down.
I quickly headed to the lobby and grabbed a quick breakfast. It's amazing to be in a motel lobby in the middle of nowhere and hear tourists speaking foreign tongues. Why the F would someone come from Germany and decide to go to southwestern New Mexico? I mean c'mon-do you really like turquoise that much?
Hotel lot was pretty empty, and I had plenty of space for swapping the tires. It was a beautiful morning, and the heat was building steadily. There was a corvette on the roof, but I wasn't complaining.

I made quick work of taking off the front wheel. I figured that the front tire change would be the hardest since it was a tubeless rim, and I've only changed tubed rear tires before.
So, off comes the front wheel. Easy, done that a few times since I had installed the r100gs front end on the bike. I had watched a few YouTube vids where guys used their center stand to break the bead and off came the tire super easy. How hard could it be?

That was not my experience.
I spent the next 3 hours doing everything in my power to extricate the wheel from the death grip the tire had on it. It seems as though someone had welded the tire bead onto the rim. I started with the tire irons, and the rim just laughed at me. I moved outside and tried to use the centerstand to break the bead. Wow, I was really in for a long morning..
I started this process around 8am. It was later than I wanted to start, but I figured it wouldn't take me all morning to swap both tires..right?
Wrong.
I'm sure it was totally comical to have watched me go in and out of my room dozens of times, carrying a motorcycle wheel, cursing louder each minute..

Finally the centerstand bead break method worked and the tire relented. Dear lord. Thank goodness the carpet in my room wasn't any color other than 'BMW front hub grease gray'.

I mounted up the front D606 with an UHD tube and took a much needed break. I surveyed the scene. It was 11am and my shit was everywhere. I had one hour to pack everything and travel 90 miles, and only the front tire was ready for the trail. Sigh..only one option-HELP! I quickly phoned my friend Ron (one of the two guys who I was meeting at the border) and left a message;
"Ron-it's Seth. Hope all is well with you. What's new on your end? I'm just hanging out at the motel, wallowing in my own self pity. This morning got away from me and I'm trying to get this train back on track. I'm hoping that you get this message and can come to the hotel for moral support. I find I work best when people are making fun of me, so ride on over."
My fear was that my two riding partners would think everything was ok on my end and would just ride to the border crossing and then wait for me. And wait...and wait...and wait.
I wasn't quite sure what the first day of trail riding would be like, and I had a street tire on the rear. I weighed my options and decided that if I was going to cause a delay, it would be more exciting to yard sale on the trail due to a bald rear tire, than force my friends to sit in a hotel parking lot and watch me mount a rear tire. It would make for a much better story anyway..
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:55 PM   #18
bikepharmer
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Lordsberg

Ridden through there a few times, not bad overall as far as amenities....much better than Road Forks, NM!

I'm in, and looking forward to the report.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:17 PM   #19
Bob
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I can't wait for the CDR to begin
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Old 02-03-2013, 05:52 AM   #20
woodly1069
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Location: Louisville, KY...really too far from the hills!
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OK! This should be GOOD!
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:36 AM   #21
JMforPres
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I'm in!

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Old 02-03-2013, 01:32 PM   #22
auldublinr
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Like your style

You are seriously one funny guy.lovin your report.Keep it up and safe travels
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:10 PM   #23
Stoner49
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R80ST on the road

Good to see one of my old bikes being put to good use. I bought that bike from Oakland in sad shape, fixed it up and the new owner from Oakland flew down and rode it home. Stoner
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:18 PM   #24
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I started to pack everything and up ride the two humans that I'd be looking at for the next 2.5 weeks-Ron on his 1150GS (land yacht) and Steve on his KTM 990adv (hooligan death ride). We said our quick hellos, and I meet Steve for the first time. Like my buddy Ron, he does underwater welding/construction and is a solid dude. I caught them up to speed on my misadventures so far..they couldn't believe all that had happened since Thursday night.

We hit the road after a fuel stop in Lordsburg. After exiting Interstate 10 we head south to the border crossing at Antelope Wells, NM. I really enjoy this type of landscape. It seems to go on for ever, with the horizon twisting and turning in the distance. I can't tell if the mountains around me are 1 mile or 20 miles away. It's very disorienting and strangely cool.
First crossing of the Divide!

I find out later that night in conversation with Ron (who has a relative or friend who works for the border patrol in that area) that while the Antelope Wells border crossing looks innocent enough, it is far from sedate once the sun goes down. Apparently, it's a very active location for firefights between the cartels and Border Patrol agents. Mental note, always cross in the morning should you so desire to enter Mexico at this location.
We reach the border after the 90 mile pavement jaunt from Lordsburg. I've crossed into Mexico at Tijuana countless times and this is the complete opposite- "sleepy" doesn't do this location justice.
As we coast to the border, we notice a couple of motorcycles pulled over just before the border control area. We pull over near them and dismount. We find two 70+ year old Canucks who have just arrived at the border 20 minutes before we arrived. Turns out they started in BC and rode down the CDR and were now finished!


I inspected their bikes (newer KLR's) and wondered what they looked like at the beginning of their long journey.
They were completely pleasant fellows and proceeded to tell is about every recent development on the trail- "watch out for this crossing, a farmer put a fence across this trail, etc."

It was really fun to think about these two geezers having just finished the ride that we were just about to start. What a trip.
We stayed and chatted for about a half hour, told them to keep the rubber side down, and headed north. The interesting thing to think about (retroactively) was that we would be headed pretty much ONLY north for the next two weeks.
We retraced our steps back up to Interstate 10 and exited the freeway at the trailhead. Those of you with the GPS tracks will know waaay more than I will about exact locations of things, as I was just following the bike in front of me.
As we approached the trailhead I became pretty nervous about what lied ahead for me and my airhead. I glanced over at the KTM 990 next to me and thought about all the technology contained therein. I thought about all the ride reports I've read where people rode "older" bikes on the trail. "If they can do it, I can do it" I thought.
First pic of the trail!

We started motoring up the trail and settled into a nice pace. This was my first real foray into off road motorcycling. I know it's a ridiculous way to start, but I have years of mountain bike racing under my belt, and I hoped that would translate into some level of competence. My goal was to not crash every hundred feet and slow down the group...little did I know...
The first crash came when Ron had a little "traction" issue on his aircraft carrier. It was a sandy wash (first of many) and he got a bit squirrelly, low siding his bike.

Turns out his Jesse box popped right off its mount and we began our first trailside fix. This would prove to be one of the many themes of the trip. I was always packing and unpacking my bags, Ron was always fixing/rigging his Jesse's, and Steve was always working on his Rotopax (story to follow).
We continued up the trail and encountered our first "obstacle".


It was a sandy wash about 70' across followed by a 3.5' ledge up out of the wash and back onto the trail. The sandy wash was just that-70' of deep sandbox sand. Upstream, downstream it made no difference. It was 70' across as far as we could see.
We decided that a direct attack was the best approach and tried to figure out a plan of attack for the ledge at the end of our sandtrap. Ron and Steve lamented their independent decisions to not bring their folding shovels. I don't even own one, so I had nothing to regret.The ledge, while 3.5' high, was made of crumbly dirt, sand, and rocks. I looked around and there was a perfect spade shaped rock. I made quick work of the ledge and we were soon paddling our way across the sandy wash, then heave ho-ing our way up the ramp we had constructed on the berm.

It might sound cheesy to say this, but I felt like I was actually having an ADV experience..I was getting pelted in the face with sand and rocks as I helped push the 1150 and the 990 up the berm...I was ecstatic.
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:15 AM   #25
Apple Jam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPO View Post
..............but I felt like I was actually having an ADV experience..I was getting pelted in the face with sand and rocks as I helped push the 1150 and the 990 up the berm...I was ecstatic.
That's where it starts, baybee...
First, Adventure,....then addiction.

You're in for a good long ride
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"got no problem with keeping truly roadless areas as wild....
On the other hand, if it has been logged or mined and roads already exist,,
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:54 AM   #26
tvbh40a
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ugh

Another must follow ride. I love it
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:46 AM   #27
woodly1069
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Location: Louisville, KY...really too far from the hills!
Oddometer: 1,630
now we're gettin' to the good stuff!
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Old 02-06-2013, 07:27 AM   #28
NoVa Rider
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In.
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:41 PM   #29
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We made our way along the trail, and I took every opportunity to drink in what I was doing. I was on the CDR, on a classic bike that I rebuilt/mod'ed myself, and the weather was amazing. I couldn't stop smiling.

Luckily, it hadn't rained in a while, so the dreaded mud pits of New Mexico were nowhere to be found. I recognized sections of the trail from other ride reports that looked impassible when muddy, and they just flew by our footpegs due to our fantastic luck.
Better to be lucky than good.

We passed farms and ranchlands filled with livestock. Little dells in the middle of nowhere. What must it be like to live this far from a hipster coffee shop I wondered...

Waaaay off in the distance, some rain clouds finally started to threaten. We picked up the pace and enjoyed the roller coaster ride.
We finally hit pavement.


I felt a sense of sadness that my first day on the trail was at an end, and at the same time a sense of accomplishment like no other I had experienced. I had started in Oakland, CA four days earlier, ridden through a national park, across 4 states, over mountains, through epic rain and lightning storms, through desert heat, and across sandy washes. I didn't fall, and I was rockin' the street tire in the rear.

Damn, it feels good to be a gangster.
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Old 02-08-2013, 02:02 PM   #30
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We motored down the road to Silver City, NM. We found the kitschy-est motel we could and parked the bikes for the night. I'm a sucker for cool old neon/Americana/mid century signs, and motels with funky little bars/diners attached.

This criteria would prove to do us right for the rest of the journey.

We unloaded our steeds and showered up. Our first day took a lot longer than we thought, and it was hours past beer-thirty. We walked across the parking lot to the Red Barn Diner and enjoyed some of the tastiest, coldest beers to ever exist.

After dinner Steve helped me swap out my rear tire. I felt pretty good on the road tire off road, and was looking forward to seeing what a knobbie would be like on the trail.

Here's a shot of Ron's aircraft carrier next to my PT boat. I sure he hears it a lot, but his is so much bigger than mine...!

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