ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Gear > The Garage
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-02-2013, 12:09 PM   #3301
David R
I been called a Nut Job..
 
David R's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: In Da Swamps of WNY
Oddometer: 2,389
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan_R80/7 View Post
Here is what I meant by a backing plate:


SNIP.
It looks like yer gonna cast aluminum to the fork leg. If welded properly you shouldn't need the backer at all.

both pieces beveled. Weld one side
Back grind the other side and weld. A full Penetration weld. Tig or spoolgun.

you should know what the fork is made of to know what filler to use

If I remember right, the pads are stopped in the caliper and the caliper has a nylon button that keeps the caliper from spinning. I will look, my bike is in the garage.
__________________
2012 R1200R ! 2000 R1100RT (retired), 1976 R75/6, 11 Versys
There is a seat for everyone.
David R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 12:04 PM   #3302
David R
I been called a Nut Job..
 
David R's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: In Da Swamps of WNY
Oddometer: 2,389
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strong Bad View Post
In my not so humble opinion gas welding a cast aluminum part requiring structural integrity would be sketchy at best. I've seen gas welding done on a lot on aluminum race car bodies, never seen it attempted on a cast structural member. Wouldn't porosity be a major issue?
On cast aluminum, I usually weld it with a tig torch.

As part of the preparation, I make the first pass over the parts with the tig torch and no filler.
This will cook the junk out of the cast and float it to the top. It also adds some preheat. I then clean up again for the real weld.

I have seen a few make a first pass with filler and grind it all out because the junk in the cast.
They then start over and make a pass with filler for a weld that is cleaner.

Just a note, I only use wheels made for aluminum because most wheels made for metal are made of aluminum oxide. Exactly what I DON'T want in my welds.
__________________
2012 R1200R ! 2000 R1100RT (retired), 1976 R75/6, 11 Versys
There is a seat for everyone.
David R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 07:15 PM   #3303
clintnz
Trans-Global Chook Chaser
 
clintnz's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2004
Location: Rotoiti, New Zealand
Oddometer: 3,303
My old welding helmet is an ESAB bought by my dad back when auto helmets were pretty space age stuff, it's getting a bit flaky in the switching, I'll have a look at replacing the battery but am looking at getting a new one. What do I look for in the budget/med $ offerings? Adjustable shade & sensitivity obviously, big lens,anything else?

Cheers
Clint
__________________
'03 KTM 640 LC4 Enduro

The wilderness, the desert - why are they not crowded
.................................................. .....with pilgrims?
clintnz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 05:11 AM   #3304
RidingDonkeys
Purveyor of Awesome
 
RidingDonkeys's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Southern Pines, North Carolina, USA
Oddometer: 7,689
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
My old welding helmet is an ESAB bought by my dad back when auto helmets were pretty space age stuff, it's getting a bit flaky in the switching, I'll have a look at replacing the battery but am looking at getting a new one. What do I look for in the budget/med $ offerings? Adjustable shade & sensitivity obviously, big lens,anything else?e

Cheers
Clint
I ran into the same things a while ago. MrsDonkeys was unwilling to let me buy a Northern Tool special, and insist we take a trip to the welding shop for a proper helmet. It seems she values my eyes a little more than I do.

I don't really "weld". I am a hobbyist, and I do it for fun, and some necessity. I only pull the welder out of the garage a few times a month, so I struggled with spending a lot of money on a helmet. I ended up with the Miller Digital Performance Series. The comfort and larger viewing area have proved to be worth the extra money. I've noticed that I tend to play a little more now I've got something more comfortable on my head, and I get a little less frustrated with visibility issues. I think I walked out for around $200 all said and done. I've been happy with it, and would buy another in a heartbeat.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...s/performance/
__________________
Clinging to sanity, one motorcycle at a time.
RidingDonkeys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 06:59 AM   #3305
Stan_R80/7
Beastly Gnarly
 
Stan_R80/7's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2012
Location: VA
Oddometer: 1,133
Also a hobbyist - this is the helmet I use most: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6894_200416894

It came with a cover/bag and allows using diopter lenses. The 1.75x is nice and allows a good view. The second switch time and viewing area is what separates the expensive from not-so-expensive helmets all other features the same (i.e. you are paying for less eye strain and a better view). If I welded much or considered myself a welder, I would upgrade the helmet to a faster switch time. My helmet has a 1/25000 sec (40 microsecond) switch time and a Jackson pro helmet has a 0.15 microsecond time.

Stan_R80/7 screwed with this post 02-05-2013 at 07:09 AM
Stan_R80/7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 04:07 PM   #3306
David R
I been called a Nut Job..
 
David R's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: In Da Swamps of WNY
Oddometer: 2,389
I have a few harbor freight helmets with adjustable shade. Good units. They do not work for TIG, they flicker.
Small window, good price. Daily I use a miller elite.

David
__________________
2012 R1200R ! 2000 R1100RT (retired), 1976 R75/6, 11 Versys
There is a seat for everyone.
David R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 07:40 PM   #3307
Pablo83
Sleep, Wrench, Ride
 
Pablo83's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
Oddometer: 4,772
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan_R80/7 View Post
Here is what I meant by a backing plate:


This was cut from 24 ga galvanized steel. The galvanizing needs to be etched off before heating, but that's the idea.
I also plan to remove that bit of rubber by the upper tang in the caliper pin hole.

Also, to reiterate, this lower tang has no load. It's the upper tang that takes a reaction force from the brake pad.

Edit: the notion is that this tang, cantilevered off the caliper support, takes the rotating force from the the disc as the brakes are applied. After looking at this bit of cast aluminum, I am not so sure that makes sense. The pad is steel but the aluminum is not gouged from the pad contact. Instead, I am thinking the pin on the back of the pad that fits into a hole in the piston transfers the pad force back into the caliper body. Otherwise, the aluminum would wear away as the steel pad rubs when the brakes are applied.
My $.02:
O-A and O-H alu welding is still used today, but only for non-structural projects and I've only heard of it being used on sheet alu.

O-H burns at a lower temp (closer to the melting point of alu) so it's easier to manage than O-A when working with alu.

You said you have experience brazing, why don't you braze the piece? You are likely to get much better penetration with less of a chance of warping the tube.

Also, why are there so many people hating on this man's project? If the brake fails he's always got the rear to fall back on (no pun intended ).
Pablo83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 09:56 PM   #3308
dorkpunch
Oops...
 
dorkpunch's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Blackfoot, ID
Oddometer: 5,028
Alright.... TIG welder question.

I'm to the point in my aluminum melting that I think I could do a lot better job if I had a foot control for my welder. Unfortunately, I see no way to adapt my welder to be able to hook up a foot pedal... So if I were to keep my eyes peeled for a used TIG welder, what would y'all recommend? It needs to be able to weld THIN aluminum, and be on the cheaper side for a TIG welder. Thinking of maybe selling my current set up (keep the tank, regulator, and maybe torch and leads?) and use some tax money to fund a nicer machine.

A quick perusal of KSL and Craigslist show a few used Millers- 180SD, 200 syncrowave, and a few other misc brands, all ranging from between $1,000 to $3,000 depending on what all comes with it.

Here is my current setup:

__________________
http://www.mobilemrt.com http://www.dorkpunch.com

"I've been going to this high school for SEVEN YEARS. I'm no dummy!"
-Charles De Mar.
dorkpunch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 03:27 AM   #3309
David R
I been called a Nut Job..
 
David R's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: In Da Swamps of WNY
Oddometer: 2,389
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pablo83 View Post
My $.02:
O-A and O-H alu welding is still used today, but only for non-structural projects and I've only heard of it being used on sheet alu.

O-H burns at a lower temp (closer to the melting point of alu) so it's easier to manage than O-A when working with alu.

You said you have experience brazing, why don't you braze the piece? You are likely to get much better penetration with less of a chance of warping the tube.

Also, why are there so many people hating on this man's project? If the brake fails he's always got the rear to fall back on (no pun intended ).
I am pretty sure you can't braze aluminum.

"If the brake fails" <~~~~~~~~~ Those words are not in my vocabulary.

David
__________________
2012 R1200R ! 2000 R1100RT (retired), 1976 R75/6, 11 Versys
There is a seat for everyone.
David R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 08:23 AM   #3310
Stan_R80/7
Beastly Gnarly
 
Stan_R80/7's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2012
Location: VA
Oddometer: 1,133
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benesesso View Post
Easily done, but not for a structural part as per the OP's.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRWmpSE-hXk

I originally thought the tangs were structural. Upon more evaluation, I realize the tangs stop the pads from spinning on the disc but do not take the load from stopping the disc. I am still considering the HTS/alumaweld/alumaloy aluminum-zinc path.

If both the upper and lower tang break, the pad will spin but still stay with the caliper and on the disc. There is also the original left side disc brake and the rear brake as mentioned. However, the hydraulics changes will affect the original brakes. So, there is some risk in this mod.
Stan_R80/7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 05:08 PM   #3311
David R
I been called a Nut Job..
 
David R's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: In Da Swamps of WNY
Oddometer: 2,389
year 1976 on a 1969 (?) bridgestone 175 street scrambler. 2 stroke rotary valve 2 cylinder bike.

Drum brakes. There is a link from the fork to the backing plate so the shoes don't spin around.

The link broke. The backing plate rotates in the direction to pull the cable tight. I went on my Azz!

Another time on a Yamaha RD350 I ha been working on it. The front axle slid partway out at 50+ mph causing
the rotor to lock up in the caliper from misalignment. I went on my azz. The skid mark was less than 2 feet long from riding
to sliding. Please don't mess with your front brakes.

:)
__________________
2012 R1200R ! 2000 R1100RT (retired), 1976 R75/6, 11 Versys
There is a seat for everyone.
David R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 06:16 PM   #3312
clintnz
Trans-Global Chook Chaser
 
clintnz's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2004
Location: Rotoiti, New Zealand
Oddometer: 3,303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan_R80/7 View Post
Also a hobbyist - this is the helmet I use most: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6894_200416894
.
Cheers, that looks like a good one & they even ship to NZ for a reasonable rate. My initial look around locally didn't find much available in between the ~NZ$100 cheapys & the $500+ pro stuff.

Cheers
Clint
__________________
'03 KTM 640 LC4 Enduro

The wilderness, the desert - why are they not crowded
.................................................. .....with pilgrims?
clintnz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 06:40 PM   #3313
fxstbiluigi
crash test dummy
 
fxstbiluigi's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: The Dry side of Oregon
Oddometer: 11,768
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pablo83 View Post
My $.02:

Also, why are there so many people hating on this man's project? If the brake fails he's always got the rear to fall back on (no pun intended ).
I see where you're going here.
Let him make a bad decision and if he survives the wreck he won't be nearly as apt to wanna try some stupid modification to the safty equipment again.
__________________
The basic question of politics is "Who does what to Whom?". -Vlademir Lenin.

"Politicians are always interested in people.
Not that this is always a virtue.
Fleas are interested in dogs." -P.J.O'Rourke
fxstbiluigi is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 07:35 PM   #3314
redprimo
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: central coast of California
Oddometer: 343
A while back I posted a request for opinions of some of the newer inverter welders because I was trying to decide between one of those and an old miller 300. yesterday I stole the welder below for $850. It came with 75' of stinger, 75' of ground lead with a heavy cast clamp, a foot pedal with 20' of cord and a Weld craft wp20 torch with 25' of cable, a water recirculation tank and a full argon cylinder with a low flow regulator. Hopefully I will have it off the trailer tomorrow and have a 50 amp outlet for it by the end of the weekend.

For those not familiar this is a Miller 330A/BP and it will put out 465 amps. They were initially made by Airco in the early 1950's and changed very little over the next 30 years. This partuicular welder was purchased new in 1983 and has not been used for the past 10 years. the inside looks nearly new and still has that new car smell.

redprimo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2013, 03:33 AM   #3315
David R
I been called a Nut Job..
 
David R's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: In Da Swamps of WNY
Oddometer: 2,389
Enjoy your new machine. My water cooler for the tig torch cost that much.

Pictures of welds please.

David
__________________
2012 R1200R ! 2000 R1100RT (retired), 1976 R75/6, 11 Versys
There is a seat for everyone.
David R is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 07:52 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014