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01-30-2013, 09:24 AM
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#16 |
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Wile E Coyote SuperGenius
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: SanDiego
Oddometer: 1,165
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A quck search cannot locate a 10 x 180mm bolt above metric grade 8.8 (5). I have my bike on the rack right now, just installed a relocator and a bash plate- it'd be SO EASY just to replace the bolt in question.
Alas.... FakeName screwed with this post 01-30-2013 at 09:39 AM |
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01-30-2013, 09:33 AM
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#17 |
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мотоциклист
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I go to a metric land (Aus) next week for a 6 weeks or so, I am sure I can find one there.
When it broke it just let go with a bang. I could even find the end with the nut on it.
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Stories from the Seat Facebook My Photos Cannonball Charity Ride No Four Wheel Drives, No Fixers and No Fricken Whingers |
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01-30-2013, 11:28 AM
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#18 |
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Plenty of seasoning
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Westish Nebraska
Oddometer: 707
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Fastenal
Fastenal has several M10x1.5x180 hex head listed. Grade 10.9 (SAE 8). Also threaded rod in grade 10.9, but only in 1m lengths.
Grainger has a socket head M10 Grade 12.9...$23.61 for pack of 5. item number 6CU50 Thanks for the heads up...will be keeping an eye on mine, or if you order a pack I would gladly buy a couple from you.
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2009 KTM Adventure |
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01-31-2013, 08:27 AM
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#19 |
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мотоциклист
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Well the BDCW guys have offered to replace the bolt. Very, very good of them. Not what I expected or requested. Especially as I said in the first post, that I don't consider the breakage to be a product fault.
Great guys.
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Stories from the Seat Facebook My Photos Cannonball Charity Ride No Four Wheel Drives, No Fixers and No Fricken Whingers |
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02-05-2013, 09:09 AM
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#20 |
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down the road
Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Guatemala
Oddometer: 269
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Best solution of them all that I{ve read, get a CJ Designs side stand relocator. Burly and does not involve the engine bolts at all. Best design out there!!!
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02-05-2013, 09:40 AM
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#21 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Blighty
Oddometer: 5,053
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Best design is on the 950RR.
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02-05-2013, 11:24 AM
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#22 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Blighty
Oddometer: 5,053
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Correct.
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02-05-2013, 04:14 PM
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#23 |
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Homeless Somewhere
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Wanaka, New Zealand, Currently RTWing
Oddometer: 1,629
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Why?, all it offers is a higher sheer strength which is what Craig is looking at, I can't see why that would be a bad thing as it will cause no other trouble.
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Cheers Andi & Ellen...Two Moto Kiwi Grüvers .....somewhere Two Moto Kiwis Home Page For More Of Two Moto Kiwis Photos |
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02-05-2013, 05:40 PM
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#24 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Blighty
Oddometer: 5,053
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Because it’s the flexing of the plate acting on the bolt, not the bolts lateral strength. Think iron vs steel.
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02-05-2013, 05:53 PM
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#25 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Blighty
Oddometer: 5,053
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Yep. Bust bolt, replace. Irrespective of material hardness the bolt will be under the same tension, harder steel is more susceptible to bend fatigue, but is also more resistant to bend. It’s all a compromise, the KTM design is stupid hence look at the 950RR. Its side stand is welded to the frame.
charlie264 screwed with this post 02-05-2013 at 06:02 PM |
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02-05-2013, 09:02 PM
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#26 | |
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Homeless Somewhere
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Wanaka, New Zealand, Currently RTWing
Oddometer: 1,629
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Quote:
How about bolt done up properly with no flex allowed between casings, mounts and bolts, I little less dramatic.
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Cheers Andi & Ellen...Two Moto Kiwi Grüvers .....somewhere Two Moto Kiwis Home Page For More Of Two Moto Kiwis Photos |
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02-06-2013, 09:17 AM
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#27 |
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KOTW 2010 Finisher
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Where the hell is Truckee, CA?
Oddometer: 3,009
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Two moto Kiwis,
I would think that with all the trouble you've had with your new KTM, you wouldn't be so quick to dismiss this. If you break a case, as many have, we don't want to hear that it was the fault of the seller or improper installation.
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Brents347 Truckee, CA. 07 Yamaha R6 07 KTM 950 Super Enduro 04 KTM 250exc- plated two-stroke |
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02-06-2013, 10:22 AM
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#28 | |
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Homeless Somewhere
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Wanaka, New Zealand, Currently RTWing
Oddometer: 1,629
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Quote:
I am not dismissing anything as we have the same kit on ours so my eyes are open but from an engineering perspective a nice snug bolt that takes out any amount of flex is not a bad thing, not trying to upset anyone (which seems to be easy here for some reason) just keep it in perspective. As noted above, everything is a compromise so nothing it perfect and it doesn't matter who makes what there is usually room for improvement and this only comes from gear being used in the field. Great news BDCW stepped up to offer Craig a new bolt, excellent service to say the least
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Cheers Andi & Ellen...Two Moto Kiwi Grüvers .....somewhere Two Moto Kiwis Home Page For More Of Two Moto Kiwis Photos |
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02-06-2013, 11:30 AM
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#29 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Blighty
Oddometer: 5,053
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Quote:
Tighten the wheel bolts on your car to 4x the recommended torque; the bolts will take that load stationary with no problem. Start driving like that and the wheels will snap the studs off and pass you on the road. |
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02-06-2013, 11:51 AM
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#30 |
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Homeless Somewhere
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Wanaka, New Zealand, Currently RTWing
Oddometer: 1,629
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Actually I get it totally, I am not saying over torque it at all .... NOT once have I suggested that FFS and yes I know where it goes.
I won't bother any more, you seem to want to belittle anything I say so yeap it is all yours ... hope you are happy now. Craig sorry your thread turned into a pissing match of others trying to twist my words and make suggestion of me trying to do you wrong.
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Cheers Andi & Ellen...Two Moto Kiwi Grüvers .....somewhere Two Moto Kiwis Home Page For More Of Two Moto Kiwis Photos |
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