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Old 02-05-2013, 04:48 PM   #14611
Anonawesome
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Central OH
Oddometer: 1,193
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Don't think you need to connect the wires. You might have a bad flasher or connection somewhere. Check the connections on the LEDs. They have to be +to power and - to ground. What's funny is, I went out last night to check mine to see if I could see any glow from the left signal (bulb type clearance lights) when the right one was on. No glow, but what's weird is the indicator doesn't work unless the motor's running.

This one looks pretty close (except for wire colors). Probably don't need the resistor on the indicator if you aren't using an LED.
http://www.google.com/search?q=Led+t...ml%3B821%3B390

Cool, got it all figured out. just traced power till I found the problem. It was at the signal connections. Turns out I was crazy in assuming green was ground and black w/ white tracer was hot. Safe to say it was also the indicator since I had also tried reversing the connections beforehand.
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Old 02-05-2013, 06:08 PM   #14612
Crenshaw
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Salidaho
Oddometer: 109
Anyone have a stock muffler laying around they'd part with for cheap? I don't care how beat up as long as its quieter than the godforsaken aftermarket pipe that's on my dr right now.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:39 AM   #14613
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Lookie here. I was concerned about doing some fork seals, bushings and oil change on my 49mm twin chamber showas. Been looking for another pair to work on in case the job took longer than I thought or ran into problems and/or messed up. Found this pair on ebay. They are super clean, and have good seals. I guess I will jsut slap these puppies in and run them. Came about to be about the same cost as a set of seals, bushings, driver, and oil.
Sweet!!
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:43 AM   #14614
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crenshaw View Post
Anyone have a stock muffler laying around they'd part with for cheap? I don't care how beat up as long as its quieter than the godforsaken aftermarket pipe that's on my dr right now.
Here is one,but it is not cheap:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-SUZUKI-...92e176&vxp=mtr

These stock mufflers seem like they are in short supply. THe first thing most poeple did to mod their DR's when new was to throw on some loud muffler. These people most likey jsut hucked their stocker thinking that there was no value in them. 20 years later the DR350 riding crowd is no longer the loud muffler type.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:10 AM   #14615
flanmaximondo
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Gone travelling
Oddometer: 26
HI Guys,
Ive looked to this thread for answers to my questions... but here is one I am stumped on...

When I push the rear break leaver, it doesnt return, it almost gets stuck down and I have to push it back up with my foot.
Ive just replaced the break fluid (after it had been in there for well over 2 years!) and I am a bit hesitant to pull apart my piston without knowing why it is doing this.

please note: I chewed through a set of break pads in a couple of months when the first set lasted almost 2 years!

Does anyone know what is happening with my bike?
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:33 AM   #14616
Greg Bender
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flanmaximondo View Post
HI Guys,
Ive looked to this thread for answers to my questions... but here is one I am stumped on...

When I push the rear break leaver, it doesnt return, it almost gets stuck down and I have to push it back up with my foot.
Ive just replaced the break fluid (after it had been in there for well over 2 years!) and I am a bit hesitant to pull apart my piston without knowing why it is doing this.

please note: I chewed through a set of break pads in a couple of months when the first set lasted almost 2 years!

Does anyone know what is happening with my bike?
Hi Danielle,

Remove the rear brake lever and see if the shaft is gummed up. Hopefully this is the problem because a quick clean and lube of the pivoting shaft is really easy to do. If that isn't it. you'll want to determine if it is the caliper or rear master that is hanging things up.

BTW, I'm very much enjoying your blog as I am slowly catching up with where you have been :>

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:41 AM   #14617
flanmaximondo
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Gone travelling
Oddometer: 26
Thanks Gregory!

I just had the leaver off when trying to sort out the problems with the clutch... it not the cleanest (and I was too lazy to clean it at the time) but it is ok and its not enough dirt to foul it up.

to me it seams as if the piston is not pushing back out... but but I really dont want to pull this all apart!! Just replacing the break fluid was drama enough - the valve screw was completely jamb up and took some gentle persuasion to come un-done!

Im also searching on the net... at least its usable just not ideal.

As for the blog... well I am glad you a slowly catching up as I am slowwwwlllllyyyy adding blogs. I am so so far behind! I really need to have a sit down and have a write session but work and bikes come first then a blog!
Do I have it in the right order?
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:45 AM   #14618
MrPulldown
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I would have that the pivot shaft was gummed up as well. Someone did this to help prvent it:


I would remove the bolt/connection between brake lever and the master cylinder. See if the MC moves freely.

Are you thinking the piston at the caliper is not returning. Even if it was stuck the brake lever should be returning.
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:03 PM   #14619
flanmaximondo
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Gone travelling
Oddometer: 26
Ok - dont laugh....

But seeing your picture made me realise I was missing a few things! Like the nice wee little grease nipple and the more important the spring! I wonder what country ended up with that spring!

Right - I guess I am off to the bike hospital here in J-burg to find me a replacement spring!
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:23 PM   #14620
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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The grease nipple is a modification to keep the pivot, pivoting freely. DR's don't come with it stock.

The "return" spring however is something that you need.
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:26 PM   #14621
tntmo
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 410
I have a couple of rear brake systems and the springs if you need any parts.
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:32 PM   #14622
flanmaximondo
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Location: Gone travelling
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Thanks a lot - tntmo

But I fear posting them to South Africa is a bit of a long stretch... they many never arrive or just take too long.
Im sure I can find one at the Bike Hospital - Johannesburg equivalent to a bike wreckers or for me bike haven!
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:54 PM   #14623
heirhead
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: On the water in SoCal
Oddometer: 424
Quote:
Originally Posted by RuggedExposure View Post
The bike is in 1.7 million pieces right now.

I've been building a work bench from scratch to take my mind off this god-forsaken bike. (yes those brackets are handmade from 1/4" steel and welded in the corners to prevent wobble)



Since I moved out here to the ranch in December I haven't had a workspace for my gunsmithing/reloading (my father-in-law's shop is pretty cramped as you can see in the pics) so I started building a bench from scratch to take my mind off this godforsaken DR. All I'm missing is the pegboard for the back, stain and sealant then I'll have my own work area for tinkering.

The Husky will be in on the 15th. I have the feeling once I can ride a dualsport again my nerves will be a little better. I've been on swing shift this month so I haven't had a chance to pop open a beer and calm my nerves to take another look at the DR. I do have a wire brush and some rtv for putting it back together. So maybe next week I can start reassembling the jug/head/cam/gremlin factory and still try to see what caused it to run so rich.

I've been going through dirt bike withdrawals... shakes, irritability, 1000yd stare, and I'm constantly dreaming of that Terra 650. At this point, I really couldn't give a rat's ass about the DR350 or whether it gets turned into a parts bike for Ebay. If it does, you guys have first dibs on the parts. I already have the new Acerbis tank off and my rack with the ammo cans removed.
Hello Columbo, oops, Rugged
Naw, don't part with it as you need something to just flog when you don't want to ruin the Husky.
Had a new Bumblebee r100gs and best thing I did was buy an xt350 to thrash about on. You know when you loop it you just go, Shucks, and take off again. Of course that was 20 yrs ago and the only thing that is LOOPY now is me.

Good luck
PS, nice bench.

Heirhead

Worlds worst mechanic
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:55 PM   #14624
Teeeeeemu
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 104
My front brake got stuck after every squeeze until I removed the pistons and rubber seals (orings) from the caliper and cleaned it from all the crap. Found some tiny pieces of sand or something under the seals which caused the sticking.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:15 PM   #14625
stromsurfer
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 628
Clymers Manual

Anyone need a Clymers Service and Repair Manual? $25 shipped.
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