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Old 02-01-2013, 05:37 AM   #16
greer
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This guy just wasn't sure either, so he added a couple of nuts to the posts:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/i...tall-and-test/

Good pictures in this thread:

http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=24044

Note that a couple of guys had clearance issues with upgraded (longer) subframe bolts.

Sarah
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:02 AM   #17
Anorak
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Look up Hi-Lock fasteners, they hold a lot of the airframe together on commercial aircraft. The nut shears off at a specific torque. These look very similar.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:54 AM   #18
Dave in Wi
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It is not just the rubber o-rings that hold the link on. That wouldn't last very long. :-)
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Old 02-01-2013, 11:27 AM   #19
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The rubber O-rings on the outside don't do anything, really. The plate is pressed onto the pin.

indr screwed with this post 02-01-2013 at 11:35 AM
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Old 02-01-2013, 03:17 PM   #20
Kronhjort OP
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Now I feel stupid. I press the plate on. But what keep the plate from sliding off? Is it really enough to just press it on? When I use a rivet link the tool expand the end of the pins so the plate can't come off. My guess was that the o-rings kept the plate from coming off.
I hope you undestand my Swedish English.
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Old 02-01-2013, 04:44 PM   #21
P B G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anorak View Post
Look up Hi-Lock fasteners, they hold a lot of the airframe together on commercial aircraft. The nut shears off at a specific torque. These look very similar.
That's what it looks like to me as well.

Similar to pop-riveting, the central core looks like it is "weakened" so that it snaps precisely when it is tensioned appropriately.

Hence I would not recommend using a caliper to measure the link, as if this is the case the product is engineered to be run till it cracks off.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:23 PM   #22
GISdood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by It'sNotTheBike View Post
If he had done so, which took me all of 20 seconds, he would have come up with
at least these search returns, and perhaps more :


http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234825


http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46043
Ever think that he - like myself - might give more weight to recommendations based on first-hand use from inmates here instead of anonymous interweb folks? Cut him some friggin slack, we were all noobs once.
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:38 PM   #23
rkover1
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Originally Posted by Yossarian™ View Post
Just curious, have you used them in applications where the chain goes through a chain guide under the swingarm, as it feeds onto the rear sprocket?
On my 2006 BMW F650GS, they do stick out far enough to interfere with the Touratech chain guide. I haven't bothered with trying to file them down shorter. In the meantime, the chain guide is lying on my bench.

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Old 02-06-2013, 01:45 PM   #24
motorat
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i prefeer the rivet link.
the cycle gear had a sale on the tool that is used to break the chain and install the new rivet.
i would be concerned that the screw link might be a little wide.

just my opinion.....YMMV.

welcome to the forum.
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:47 PM   #25
Yossarian™
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkover1 View Post
On my 2006 BMW F650GS, they do stick out far enough to interfere with the Touratech chain guide. I haven't bothered with trying to file them down shorter. In the meantime, the chain guide is lying on my bench.

doc
Thank you for the information; it confirms what I had suspected.
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