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Old 02-09-2013, 10:45 AM   #16
Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Sep 2010
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I'm not suggesting he use a belt sander and scatter dust everywhere, nor am I suggesting that he should ignore hazards. What I'm saying is that if the presence of lead is "unknown" and remains so, his life will be easier. Once there's a documented discovery of lead, then he has to follow the letter of the law, not just the spirit. And he has to disclose his discovery when he sells.
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:44 PM   #17
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Gateway to the Sandhills
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Whole lot cheaper and easier than chemical stripper is a hot water bath with dish soap. Normally used on small parts but still effective. Old paint will slide right off and you'll find the first coat of paint from the factory well adhered under all of it.

If you are serious about only 30 years of paint on them, you're fine for not finding lead based paint since nothing sold after 78 could have lead in it. Even shortly before 78 it was being phased out.

Whatever you do, don't go looking for lead! Can you say superfund site and your LL will have a conniption.
Illegitemi non-corundum est.
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:56 PM   #18
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Location: Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
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looks like the last coat was 30 years ago

I think the break over point on lead paint is latex/enamel. the old oil based enamel paints had white lead as a main ingredient. I could be wrong but I am pretty sure the latex paints didn't used it. trick is telling the difference... some of the old enamels are easy to spot, but maybe not if they have been re-coated a few times. the gument says you can't tell the difference.... and a home test kit is not reliable, only a pro can test (opening that can o worms).

wet stripping is the best way to remove the old lead paint anyway because scraping, sanding, and/or heating releases the lead & spreads it all over the place.
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