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Old 02-07-2013, 07:10 AM   #3316
Stan_R80/7
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Location: VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David R View Post
year 1976 on a 1969 (?) bridgestone 175 street scrambler. 2 stroke rotary valve 2 cylinder bike.

Drum brakes. There is a link from the fork to the backing plate so the shoes don't spin around.

The link broke. The backing plate rotates in the direction to pull the cable tight. I went on my Azz!

Another time on a Yamaha RD350 I ha been working on it. The front axle slid partway out at 50+ mph causing
the rotor to lock up in the caliper from misalignment. I went on my azz. The skid mark was less than 2 feet long from riding
to sliding. Please don't mess with your front brakes.

:)
Sure, I see your point. There are used and new right fork lowers with ATE brake castings out there. Aside from the tangs, the fork lower needs to be drilled and reamed for a 20 mm axle. I will think about this some more as it is neither urgent or mandatory.
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:10 PM   #3317
Pike Bishop
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Nice machine, Redprimo.

The 330AB/P is a beast, and cosmetically, at least, yours looks sweet. (Not that there's much you can do to harm those big xformer machines...)

I run a Sync 250 but if I had $850 lying around all lonely and unloved, I'd grab a machine like that in a heartbeat.

Best of luck with it.

(I suspect you already know this, but you'll need a lot more than 50A if you want to run that monster wide-open!)
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Old 02-08-2013, 03:56 PM   #3318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pike Bishop View Post
Nice machine, Redprimo.

The 330AB/P is a beast, and cosmetically, at least, yours looks sweet. (Not that there's much you can do to harm those big xformer machines...)

I run a Sync 250 but if I had $850 lying around all lonely and unloved, I'd grab a machine like that in a heartbeat.

Best of luck with it.

(I suspect you already know this, but you'll need a lot more than 50A if you want to run that monster wide-open!)
No worries about the 50A outlet. The torch I have is only rated for 250A but more importantly what I will be fabricating with will be mostly 1/8" or less mild steel. I opted for the big old beast mostly due to such a low price for a plug and play set up with a water cooled torch.

Yesterday I got the +800lb welder off the trailer and moved into its new home, no easy task but not as hard as I thought it was going to be. I hooked up the regulator to the tank that came with it and it looks like I've got 1,400 psi of argon.
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:34 PM   #3319
David R
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Laugh

Every day you don't use a new tig welder is a sin. Show us some pics.

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Old 02-12-2013, 07:49 AM   #3320
MikeinEugene
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Here's a question I've been working on:

Would a hobbyist be better off going with Tig so he could weld anything or would a wire feed set up for steel & aluminum be better?

This popped up on CL today, I've seen it before too:
http://eugene.craigslist.org/tls/3610999670.html

If the ad is gone here's the text:

175 AMP POWER SUPPLY 208/230 volt single phase, 2 owned 282cu ft tanks-one steel mix- the other argon mix (aluminum)
Has built in steel mig with 20' lead & gun, and 50' leads with spool gun. (lincoln) with aluminum wire (.030) 4043. 50 foot power cord.
selling because closed shop! works great ! $700.00 FIRM.



I don't have any set projects in store for it. I borrow a friend's Miller 135 wire feed when I need to do any welding but it's proven too light duty for some horse trailer repairs I've had to do.

I don't have any aluminum projects lined out but after seeing Kirkster's panniers I kind of want to make some
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:21 AM   #3321
Pablo83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinEugene View Post
Would a hobbyist be better off going with Tig so he could weld anything or would a wire feed set up for steel & aluminum be better?
I would suggest you think about what types of projects are in your future and if they're mostly steel, go with MIG; if they're mostly Alu, go with TIG. If you don't have any TIG experience and you buy a TIG machine to do all your steel and alu projects, you are looking at a steep learning curve that might really inhibit your ability to complete projects.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:59 AM   #3322
Pike Bishop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinEugene View Post
Would a hobbyist be better off going with Tig so he could weld anything or would a wire feed set up for steel & aluminum be better?
The nice thing about many or most TIG machines is that you can also stick weld with them, so you effectively get two machines in one.

If you want to weld aluminum with a TIG, be sure to get one with AC.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:46 AM   #3323
Schlug
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Originally Posted by Pablo83 View Post
I need a length of 7" ID tube or pipe. Everything I find seems to skip from 6" to 8". Any suggestions?
man, I'm late to the game, but they did make and I have run into 7" pipe.

We were able to special order a hunk and a fitting. It was about 10 years ago. If I can remember it was schedule 40 and was normal wall thickness, so 7 5/8" OD?
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:48 AM   #3324
xcflyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redprimo View Post
A while back I posted a request for opinions of some of the newer inverter welders because I was trying to decide between one of those and an old miller 300. yesterday I stole the welder below for $850. It came with 75' of stinger, 75' of ground lead with a heavy cast clamp, a foot pedal with 20' of cord and a Weld craft wp20 torch with 25' of cable, a water recirculation tank and a full argon cylinder with a low flow regulator. Hopefully I will have it off the trailer tomorrow and have a 50 amp outlet for it by the end of the weekend.

For those not familiar this is a Miller 330A/BP and it will put out 465 amps. They were initially made by Airco in the early 1950's and changed very little over the next 30 years. This partuicular welder was purchased new in 1983 and has not been used for the past 10 years. the inside looks nearly new and still has that new car smell.


You thief ! You did steal that. Those big pigs will be around for another 60 years still running. Great deal !
Now you can weld up some fenders for that trailer
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:19 PM   #3325
redprimo
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that trailer belongs to my neighbor and it seems like every time I borrow it I have to repair the lights. This time I repaired one of his chainsaws in exchange for using the trailer. I've got two more saws to go.
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:18 PM   #3326
JAFO
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Sounds like a good first project : strengthen the light mounts!

Sent from my MB886 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:38 PM   #3327
JAFO
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HD Utility wagon, need advice

Folks- had this all banged out on weldtalk, but they suddenly seem to want to moderate. :shrugs:...

I need a utility wagon, mainly to move my engine hoist and other heavy/unwieldly shit from the garage to the back shed- BUT, will also need to transport a 600+ pound engine back there at some point as well.

Looking to go about 18"X36" for the loadbed, wheels directly under the assembly (ie: the widest point is the loadbed).

I have a good bit of scrap 2X2X1/8" wall tubing as well as angle and such, from past 4X4 suspension and bumper builds. I have no problems or questions re the building of the frame...

What has me flumoxed is the steering, and appropriate axle for the fixed and steering axles.

Basically, want this: http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...rap-steel.html

It looks like he used solid rod for the fixed axle, and steering knuckles for the steering bit. I don't think the solid rod is up to this sort of stress unless I go larger diameter. I do, however, think that welding grade-8 bolts to the frame itself would work just fine. Yes, they will loose some strength from the heat and welding- in that case, second thought I could through-bolt through the frame (dropping the frame down another few inches to allow this, of course), leaving enough length on the bolt to properly affix my wheels (which will have bearing-equipped hubs). So I don't think the rear axle is such a big deal- anything I am missing here?

The front axle, though: I am flumoxed. I have no idea where to obtain the steering knuckles. I could make the entire front assembly pivot, but this seems like it would be a weak point of the structure, and would make the cart more tippy. I don't want "Radio Flyer" single-pivot wagon steering, looking for something more like a solid-axle equipped truck's steering (ie, the pivots are at each wheel, a la "kingpins" on a Dana axle).

I realize box-section tubing is overkill on this project. I will use expanded steel for the load deck, or perhaps wood if consensus says this would be better. I am using box section because I have a lot of it that's going to rust if it's not used, so this is a $0 supply. I can buy the wheels if I have to, for $10 per- but I already have a source lined up for wheels off an old commercial lawnmower, at $0.

Costs for the project looks like a bit of hardware (which I probably already have from previous projects- I have a 200-pound case of misc stainless and zinc fasteners), some paint, and whatever the solution ends up being for the load deck and steering.

Could use your input!

EDIT: I realize the box section will make this thing HEAVY, that is fine. I have some clevises I plan on welding to the frame for tiedown use as well as hoisting use. Hoisting, as in: to hoist it up into my trailed. I have a milsurp M101A1 trailer that I use behind my S-10 (itself highly modified- Dana 44 solid axles from an 82 Wagoneer are under it, about 12" lift all told), it is of course quite tall. I am modifying it for civvy voltage and 7-wire RV harness, and plan to delete the tiltbed feature and mount a pickup bed hoist in it to allow me to easily load axles, engines, etc. So there are no concerns of keeping this trailer light enough to get into the back of a SUV without throwing my back out. Any finished product under 150 pounds will be fine.

JAFO screwed with this post 02-16-2013 at 09:47 PM
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:47 AM   #3328
David R
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I have used nuts and bolts for hinges. They will seize from rust, otherwise it works.

1/2" pipe and 1/2" bolts for king pins and spindles or tie rods.

You could drill the threads out of a 3/4 nut and use a piece of round stock. Weld the nuts to the frame.

Most nuts have zinc on them, don't breathe the white smoke.

For the deck 11 gauge is plenty I use 10 gauge in small dump trucks. You can also use wood with a tubing subframe.

The bigger the wheels, the easier it will pull or push.

Looks like a fun project.

David
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:47 AM   #3329
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Jafco,

In the old days, pickups (for that matter, autos also) used straight front axles - too wide, you can cut it down.

I'd poke around old junk yards, older farm equipment dealers, etc. and see what I could track down. You'll find something which you can use - you'll discover something and have an "Ah-ha that's it !!" moment.

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Old 02-17-2013, 06:50 AM   #3330
JAFO
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An actual automotive axle is WAY overkill for this... first of all, the tires are only going to be about 13" diameter, and the whole thing will be 18" wide.

I think I will probably end up going with the pipe and bolt, welded together. I am having trouble picturing what David is saying, though...
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