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Old 02-09-2013, 11:02 PM   #6391
inuvik
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
Oddometer: 41
Clutch cable adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charliedog43 View Post
Thanks for the heads up on the 2nd cable adjuster. I thought there might be one but did not see it the other end of the cable, and it didn't hit me that it might be in the middle. At the moment I'd say it does not engage until it's 95% out.

Larry aka CharlieDog
Bristol, TN

I second that thanks! My clutch engages way too close to being completely let out also. I'll take a look for the middle adjustment tomorrow. I just installed a set of 1" Tusk handlebar risers today but i didn't ride. I'm hoping that this will get the airflow just over the top of my head with my Spitfire S-06 windshield. In stock configuration it was catching my visor. Annoying & was deep freezing my dome with the temps here in SE Oregon still in the 20's.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:58 AM   #6392
Charliedog43
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Is the DR cold blooded or what!

Another question oh wise ones on the forum: does removing the plug from that screw under the carb (not sure what that screw is called or what it does) and adjusting that screw have any effect on cold-bloodedness? I've started riding the bike with the temps in the 40's and realize just how bad the bike is compared to my other bikes. I really don't want to re-jet it, I re-jetted a Suzuki Bandit years ago and mucked it up such that the bike never ran right afterwards. I finally fixed it by trading the bike in for a different one, but I learned my lesson. I've seen references to tilting the carb for access to that plug, and wonder if the throttle cable needs to be dis-connected from the carb so the carb can be rotated. TIA

Larry aka Charliedog
Bristol, TN
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:53 AM   #6393
Codyp1814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charliedog43 View Post
Another question oh wise ones on the forum: does removing the plug from that screw under the carb (not sure what that screw is called or what it does) and adjusting that screw have any effect on cold-bloodedness? I've started riding the bike with the temps in the 40's and realize just how bad the bike is compared to my other bikes. I really don't want to re-jet it, I re-jetted a Suzuki Bandit years ago and mucked it up such that the bike never ran right afterwards. I finally fixed it by trading the bike in for a different one, but I learned my lesson. I've seen references to tilting the carb for access to that plug, and wonder if the throttle cable needs to be dis-connected from the carb so the carb can be rotated. TIA

Larry aka Charliedog
Bristol, TN
Yes it is cold blooded. It's a 4 stroke with 80's technology. It will not run right when it is cold with stock jetting. There really is not a way around it. Mine runs perfect at any temperature because I have the jet kit. It is really easy to install and theoretically should run perfect after that. The jet kit will give you instructions on how to set everything.
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:37 AM   #6394
Klay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charliedog43 View Post
Another question oh wise ones on the forum: does removing the plug from that screw under the carb (not sure what that screw is called or what it does) and adjusting that screw have any effect on cold-bloodedness? I've started riding the bike with the temps in the 40's and realize just how bad the bike is compared to my other bikes. I really don't want to re-jet it, I re-jetted a Suzuki Bandit years ago and mucked it up such that the bike never ran right afterwards. I finally fixed it by trading the bike in for a different one, but I learned my lesson. I've seen references to tilting the carb for access to that plug, and wonder if the throttle cable needs to be dis-connected from the carb so the carb can be rotated. TIA

Larry aka Charliedog
Bristol, TN
Maybe others are better at it than me, but I have to take the throttle cables off to get the carb to rotate enough to work on it.

The Kientech jet kit works perfectly, so you shouldn't be afraid of going that route if you decide to. But you'll need to get that brass plug out regardless.
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:53 AM   #6395
striperjunky
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Location: Fairbanks, Ak.
Oddometer: 151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Codyp1814 View Post
Yes it is cold blooded. It's a 4 stroke with 80's technology. It will not run right when it is cold with stock jetting. There really is not a way around it. Mine runs perfect at any temperature because I have the jet kit. It is really easy to install and theoretically should run perfect after that. The jet kit will give you instructions on how to set everything.
I can only speak for my DR....yes ...little suzi is cold blooded!!! I did the air-screw mod two years ago after getting frustrated with its cold start performance and WOW what a difference it made. I can now start the 200 at around the 40f mark with no choke and no crack of the throttle with completely stock 2001 jetting. below 40f i only need partial choke. Once i hit 32f i have to use full choke and 30 seconds worth to get it warmed it enough to idle on its own. i think i have it set at around 2-3 turns out on the air/fuel screw. Haven't had to reset it since then!!
If you're gonna do the mod...a word of warning...don't use a dry-wall screw to try and pull the brass plug out. my first attempt ended with the tip of the screw snapping off in the plug. then i had to match the plug size with a drill bit and bore it out the rest of the way. also don't drill too far past the plug....you run the risk of ruining the flat tip slot on the factory screw....which will render all of your efforts fruitless! good luck!!!
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:20 PM   #6396
poppawheelie
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Location: Central Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charliedog43 View Post
Another question oh wise ones on the forum: does removing the plug from that screw under the carb (not sure what that screw is called or what it does) and adjusting that screw have any effect on cold-bloodedness? I've started riding the bike with the temps in the 40's and realize just how bad the bike is compared to my other bikes. I really don't want to re-jet it, I re-jetted a Suzuki Bandit years ago and mucked it up such that the bike never ran right afterwards. I finally fixed it by trading the bike in for a different one, but I learned my lesson. I've seen references to tilting the carb for access to that plug, and wonder if the throttle cable needs to be dis-connected from the carb so the carb can be rotated. TIA

Larry aka Charliedog
Bristol, TN
It will run soooo much bettter once the carb is richened up.
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:26 PM   #6397
jfman
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Location: Montreal, Canada
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The fork tubes on these are 31mm right?

Anybody has upgrader the front suspension on one by swapping the forks?
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:13 AM   #6398
BigCanoe
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Oddometer: 703
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Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
it will run soooo much bettter once the carb is richened up.
qft!
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:30 PM   #6399
Goon310
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Location: California
Oddometer: 52
Bump!
Here's my new to me '01 I just got today.
Only did a quick putt-putt on it, but it's awesome.
Going to go for a ride tomorrow.
DRZ200 003
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:20 PM   #6400
BigCanoe
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Sweet, congrats!
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:24 PM   #6401
Goon310
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It's super easy to ride.
Never road on road before, so it's all new to me.
Gotta get used to the whole having to use turn signals thing...
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:26 PM   #6402
Klay
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Looks identical to my 2001.
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:30 PM   #6403
jeffcneal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goon310 View Post
It's super easy to ride.
Never road on road before, so it's all new to me.
Gotta get used to the whole having to use turn signals thing...

The hardest thing is remembering to turn them "off".

regards,
Jeff
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:49 AM   #6404
Solas5
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Location: Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 14
Alright guys! So I'm new to the forum and am already in look of some advice! I recently stumbled across a 2000 DR200 that looks to be in great shape with only about 3,300 miles on it. Aesthetically, it looks ( through pictures) great and the current owner says it performs flawlessly and only has one scratch on the right side of the gas tank. He is the first and only owner of the bike unless I happen to take it off his hands. Now for the questions; he is wanting $1,900 for it. Is that a pretty fair price? I really like the lower displacement platform, I grew up on a 1981 XL250 and have found that I really don't need much more. But with the DR being a 200cc bike, how does that translate into functionality of everyday use? I will be using it mostly for commuting but will also want to get out and explore some mountains (cascades and Olympics as I just recently moved to Seattle) and will probably have to brush across a few highways an interstates here and there. Next, I enjoy working on and fixing my bikes myself but I'm no genius when it comes to mechanics. Is the DR a pretty easy candidate for such activity? And finally, and I'm sure it has been mentioned somewhere in the 300+ pages of this thread, but what are some minor upgrades that increase the power and versatility of the DR200? Could you provide some specifics and maybe places/sites to find parts? I'm on a bit of a budget but plan to make this a longitudinal project! Thanks guys! This forum looks great and I'm happy to be a part of it!
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:55 AM   #6405
Klay
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$1900 is a little steep for such an old bike...the book value of my 2001 model is only $1000. But dual sport bikes can sell far above book value if they're in very good condition with low miles. They're good right out of the box, but if you intend to make a lot of short trips, or if you plan on running the bike in cool weather, it's very helpful to re-jet the carb so it isn't so cold-blooded.

It's hard to beat the simplicity and functionality of a DR200.
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