Has anyone tried the Applied triple clamp for the KLR?

HighwayMiles · 02-14-2013, 04:01 AM

I'm looking to reduce vibration on my '06 KLR as much as possible, and I thought I'd give these a try. They're a bit expensive, so I'd love to hear some feedback before purchasing them. Are they worth the money? I know I could fill my handlebars or get bar ends (which I probably will do as well) but these seem to be the best solution. I've seen some other posts on here about rubber mounted risers, but I want to keep the handlebars in the stock location.

Kawidad · 02-14-2013, 06:04 AM

I don't know about the best solution, but what works really well is a lighter piston. Pick your poison, Woessner (stock bore), 688cc, 685cc, or 705cc. The stock piston is crazy heavy and is what causes a lot of the vibration.

Beezer · 02-14-2013, 11:12 AM

agreed... 685 tha bugga... helps a lot. also a careful setting of the valves so that the clearances match (both exhausts the same as each other & both intakes the same), richen the mix a bit (see 22 cent mod), and Murph's grips...

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/ad...655802&x=0&y=0

also make sure all the engine mount bolts are tight

tire choices play a part too... knobbier tires rumble more

Xcuvator · 02-14-2013, 11:24 AM

Some of them vibrate more than others. My 07 was one of the smooth ones and after the 685 kit it is very close to being completely vibration free. I don't know what the triple clamps cost but the money would go a long way towards engine work.

HighwayMiles · 02-14-2013, 01:07 PM

Ok, correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought that increasing the displacement meant decreasing reliability.

Was there a big difference after installing the lighter piston? How much did the whole job end up costing? The triple clamp and handlebars total out at around $300.

fleshpiston · 02-14-2013, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HighwayMiles

Ok, correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought that increasing the displacement meant decreasing reliability.

All the big bore kits use a much lighter piston, less weight to stop and start puts less stress and strain on bearings, etc. So in theory it should extend engine life? (in theory)

As far as reducing vibes...... are the stock steel bars still on the bike? In my experience a decent aluminum bar really helped reduce vibes, enough so that I stopped looking for other solutions.

.

Xcuvator · 02-14-2013, 01:36 PM

It seems like the 685 kit was around 500$ total. If your bike has some miles on it a top end is somewhere in the future anyway.

motoman250f · 02-14-2013, 02:16 PM

If you can do the work that is. its a pretty expensive deal if you have someone else do the big bore.. well over a thousand then. i would really try weights first and maybe those foam grips or something unless you bike is burning oil and needs the piston work. that schnitz 685 is a molly coated piston and pin.. its well understood its a better and more long lasting setup than stock.

CA Stu · 02-14-2013, 03:10 PM

I put on Renthal Vintage/Desert bars (bend #666, aluminum), filled them with window caulk and my bars are darn near totally vibration free.

HighwayMiles · 02-14-2013, 03:27 PM

My bad, I should have provided some more information about my bike. It's a 2006 with 6500 miles on it. Everything is stock on the bike with the exception of the tires and the doo. The bike does burn an excessive amount of oil imho, which to me means having to take a can of oil on long highway trips. Annoying, but other than that I love the bike for the simple fact that it ALWAYS gets me home, no matter what happens. That peace of mind is worth a lot to me, which is why I've always been hesitant to upgrade to the 685.

Is it possible to do the 685 kit myself? I'm more of a tinkerer, but I have mechanic friends that would be able to lend me a hand. As long as there's no machine work involved, I think, or hope, I could manage it ok.

I originally intended to pair those triple clamps with a set of Renthal bars (without the crossbar) and a set of gel grips. The vibration isn't horrible as it is now, but my hands tend to fall asleep on longer rides. It's just annoying, not really an impediment when it comes to riding.

Thanks for the replies though guys!

Xcuvator · 02-14-2013, 04:10 PM

The instructions supplied by Schnitz Racing were written by the late KLR Cary and are outstanding. Good pictures and text for each step along the way. If you like to tinker and follow the instructions there is no way you can screw anything up..
If your bike is a drinker, a kit is a no-brainer IMO

CA Stu · 02-14-2013, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HighwayMiles

Is it possible to do the 685 kit myself? I'm more of a tinkerer, but I have mechanic friends that would be able to lend me a hand. As long as there's no machine work involved, I think, or hope, I could manage it ok.

It takes a while, but it is really simple.

No special skills or tools needed.

I bought the kit with a piston, a cylinder, and the head and slapped it together, runs very well.

schaffer40 · 02-14-2013, 09:07 PM

I found that changing the bars to the Protaper Countour ATV HGH 1 1/8 bar helped alot. It seems that without the cross bar of the 7/8" bars they DO not buzz as much. My hand would buzz for 2 hrs after my 45min commute home with the stock bars. I have ridden out a tank full of gas with the fatbars and my hand/arms feel fine. One mans opinion.

Beezer · 02-14-2013, 10:11 PM

schnitz 685 kit is $295 plus a bore job. not hard to do & much help is available

02-14-2013, 04:01 AM	#1
HighwayMiles ^OP Adventurer Joined: Jul 2012 Location: Long Island Oddometer: 47	Has anyone tried the Applied triple clamp for the KLR? I'm looking to reduce vibration on my '06 KLR as much as possible, and I thought I'd give these a try. They're a bit expensive, so I'd love to hear some feedback before purchasing them. Are they worth the money? I know I could fill my handlebars or get bar ends (which I probably will do as well) but these seem to be the best solution. I've seen some other posts on here about rubber mounted risers, but I want to keep the handlebars in the stock location.

02-14-2013, 06:04 AM	#2
Kawidad Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2005 Location: Central Coast, Cal Oddometer: 3,808	I don't know about the best solution, but what works really well is a lighter piston. Pick your poison, Woessner (stock bore), 688cc, 685cc, or 705cc. The stock piston is crazy heavy and is what causes a lot of the vibration. __________________ "Deeply flawed people make deeply flawed decisions."

02-14-2013, 11:24 AM	#4
Xcuvator Justa Venturer Joined: Jul 2007 Location: Skoals Or Oddometer: 1,245	Some of them vibrate more than others. My 07 was one of the smooth ones and after the 685 kit it is very close to being completely vibration free. I don't know what the triple clamps cost but the money would go a long way towards engine work. __________________ ___________________________________________ So much riding-so little time

02-14-2013, 01:36 PM	#7
Xcuvator Justa Venturer Joined: Jul 2007 Location: Skoals Or Oddometer: 1,245	It seems like the 685 kit was around 500$ total. If your bike has some miles on it a top end is somewhere in the future anyway. __________________ ___________________________________________ So much riding-so little time

02-14-2013, 03:10 PM	#9
CA Stu Thanks Joined: Aug 2004 Location: Riverside, CA Oddometer: 42,603	I put on Renthal Vintage/Desert bars (bend #666, aluminum), filled them with window caulk and my bars are darn near totally vibration free. __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6cxNR9ML8k

02-14-2013, 11:12 AM	#3
Beezer Beastly Adventurer Joined: Oct 2004 Location: Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe) Oddometer: 4,419	agreed... 685 tha bugga... helps a lot. also a careful setting of the valves so that the clearances match (both exhausts the same as each other & both intakes the same), richen the mix a bit (see 22 cent mod), and Murph's grips... http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/ad...655802&x=0&y=0 also make sure all the engine mount bolts are tight tire choices play a part too... knobbier tires rumble more

02-14-2013, 01:07 PM	#5
HighwayMiles ^OP Adventurer Joined: Jul 2012 Location: Long Island Oddometer: 47	Ok, correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought that increasing the displacement meant decreasing reliability. Was there a big difference after installing the lighter piston? How much did the whole job end up costing? The triple clamp and handlebars total out at around $300.

02-14-2013, 02:16 PM	#8
motoman250f Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2004 Oddometer: 407	If you can do the work that is. its a pretty expensive deal if you have someone else do the big bore.. well over a thousand then. i would really try weights first and maybe those foam grips or something unless you bike is burning oil and needs the piston work. that schnitz 685 is a molly coated piston and pin.. its well understood its a better and more long lasting setup than stock.

02-14-2013, 03:27 PM	#10
HighwayMiles ^OP Adventurer Joined: Jul 2012 Location: Long Island Oddometer: 47	My bad, I should have provided some more information about my bike. It's a 2006 with 6500 miles on it. Everything is stock on the bike with the exception of the tires and the doo. The bike does burn an excessive amount of oil imho, which to me means having to take a can of oil on long highway trips. Annoying, but other than that I love the bike for the simple fact that it ALWAYS gets me home, no matter what happens. That peace of mind is worth a lot to me, which is why I've always been hesitant to upgrade to the 685. Is it possible to do the 685 kit myself? I'm more of a tinkerer, but I have mechanic friends that would be able to lend me a hand. As long as there's no machine work involved, I think, or hope, I could manage it ok. I originally intended to pair those triple clamps with a set of Renthal bars (without the crossbar) and a set of gel grips. The vibration isn't horrible as it is now, but my hands tend to fall asleep on longer rides. It's just annoying, not really an impediment when it comes to riding. Thanks for the replies though guys!

02-14-2013, 04:10 PM	#11
Xcuvator Justa Venturer Joined: Jul 2007 Location: Skoals Or Oddometer: 1,245	The instructions supplied by Schnitz Racing were written by the late KLR Cary and are outstanding. Good pictures and text for each step along the way. If you like to tinker and follow the instructions there is no way you can screw anything up.. If your bike is a drinker, a kit is a no-brainer IMO __________________ ___________________________________________ So much riding-so little time Xcuvator screwed with this post 02-14-2013 at 04:17 PM

02-14-2013, 09:07 PM	#13
schaffer40 I look lived in..... Joined: May 2009 Location: Rowland Heights Ca. Oddometer: 275	I found that changing the bars to the Protaper Countour ATV HGH 1 1/8 bar helped alot. It seems that without the cross bar of the 7/8" bars they DO not buzz as much. My hand would buzz for 2 hrs after my 45min commute home with the stock bars. I have ridden out a tank full of gas with the fatbars and my hand/arms feel fine. One mans opinion. __________________ The massive Raider Nation is beyond doubt the sleaziest and rudest and most sinister mob of thugs and wackos ever assembled. Hunter S. Thompson Punk Rock Changed My Life- The Minutemen

02-14-2013, 10:11 PM	#14
Beezer Beastly Adventurer Joined: Oct 2004 Location: Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe) Oddometer: 4,419	schnitz 685 kit is $295 plus a bore job. not hard to do & much help is available

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