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Old 02-14-2013, 04:05 PM   #2176
hhkiwi
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... and here are my photos. First the one showing the belt resting on the bellcrank with no one on the bike:



The next shot shows the situation with me sitting on the bike. I can push my finger in between the belt and the bellcrank:



And finally a photo showing the back of my belt - there's virtually no sign of wear after 6,500 miles:

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Old 02-14-2013, 04:23 PM   #2177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tree88 View Post
belt to bellcrank clearance



closeup of above


belt to pulley cover clearance



holes that must be slotted (and half the thickness of the bottom spacer put behind ie: 1/4" in down will require 1/8" of spacers to get the bolts to tighten correctly)


you can just make out the 1/8" of washers behind the bracket.
I tried to take pictures of mine for reference, but my bike is set up a little differently. The exhaust and cross over pipe support is in the way of getting a decent angle on it. The pics I got were pretty useless, unlike yours.

I understand what you did with the top mounting bolts, but I'm still a bit confused. Perhaps I'm looking at it wrong, or maybe I'm just dense, IDK, but it appears that about the only thing I could accomplish with spacers would be to move the master cylinder rearward, and not really down away from the belt. Do you have a pic of were exactly you placed the 1/4" spacer? Are you talking about behind the two large bolts below the m/c in this pic?

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Old 02-14-2013, 04:48 PM   #2178
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Cool2 here you go



there are three bolts which hold the bracket to the bike.

the lower (front) bolt is where i spaced it down 1/4"

by moving the bracket straight down, there is a gap opened between the rear of the bracket and the frame.

this gap can be filled with roughly half the thickness of the lower spacer (because the rear of the bracket is at roughly a 45 degree angle)

the bracket moves straight down (because the front bolt hole will not allow forward or aft movement) but because of the angle of the frame it must be spaced to fill the gap.

hope this clears it up for you
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:09 PM   #2179
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I'm scratching my head here - what am I missing? Why do you want to mess with your rear master right away?

Just install the longer shocks, give the belt some slack and take the bike for a ride. Then look at the outside of the belt for any signs of contact with the bellcrank - there's a good chance you won't find any, in which case there's no point lowering the rear master, right?

My belt is 6+ years old with 6,500 miles on it and my bike has had 15" shocks from new. If there'd been regular contact with the bell crank - or any other part - I'd know by now. But there's nothing, except perhaps a very fine line on the back of the belt from pushing the bike out of the garage with no load on it. But you'll have to look very closely to see it.

Me thinks you worry too much.
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:26 PM   #2180
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Cool2 i would try the shocks first

mine had a really light wear mark from the linkage- but riding style may have a large part to play in that. I do tend to gear brake alot (rear suspension unloaded, tension on lower part of belt) so I modified mine to prevent any further wear... your results may vary.

that and my suspension does not move very much when i sit on it (drops about 3/4")- so it runs damn near topped out at all times.

tree88 screwed with this post 02-14-2013 at 05:35 PM Reason: added info
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:43 PM   #2181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tree88 View Post


there are three bolts which hold the bracket to the bike.

the lower (front) bolt is where i spaced it down 1/4"

by moving the bracket straight down, there is a gap opened between the rear of the bracket and the frame.

this gap can be filled with roughly half the thickness of the lower spacer (because the rear of the bracket is at roughly a 45 degree angle)

the bracket moves straight down (because the front bolt hole will not allow forward or aft movement) but because of the angle of the frame it must be spaced to fill the gap.

hope this clears it up for you

Ahhh.... Now I got ya!.. The whole cast iron thing gets moved down. I was just looking at where the master cylinder appears to bolt to that piece. And yes, I see what you mean about the top bolts and it all makes perfect sense to me now. Denseness over! At least for now...


Quote:
Originally Posted by hhkiwi View Post
I'm scratching my head here - what am I missing? Why do you want to mess with your rear master right away?

Just install the longer shocks, give the belt some slack and take the bike for a ride. Then look at the outside of the belt for any signs of contact with the bellcrank - there's a good chance you won't find any, in which case there's no point lowering the rear master, right?

My belt is 6+ years old with 6,500 miles on it and my bike has had 15" shocks from new. If there'd been regular contact with the bell crank - or any other part - I'd know by now. But there's nothing, except perhaps a very fine line on the back of the belt from pushing the bike out of the garage with no load on it. But you'll have to look very closely to see it.

Me thinks you worry too much.

Not missing anything. I agree, I'd try it first as is. But, I like to have a contingency plan just in case I'm not comfortable with how close my belt runs to other hard parts. I probably wouldn't "need" it, but it's nice to know that once I spend the cash on a set of shocks, I'm not screwed if my bike exhibits interference issues. Besides, a little extra clearance won't hurt.

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Old 02-15-2013, 02:37 PM   #2182
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The fact that my wire wheels have tubeless tires with tubes in them makes me angry. I am used to keeping a tire plug kit with me, but I'm not patching tubes. Anyone know where I can get some cheap cast wheels that I can run tubeless tires? All the ones I see on line are really pricey and fancy looking,. Or a good way to seal the wire wheels so I can throw the tubes away?
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Old 02-15-2013, 05:13 PM   #2183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eye of the Tiger View Post
The fact that my wire wheels have tubeless tires with tubes in them makes me angry. I am used to keeping a tire plug kit with me, but I'm not patching tubes. Anyone know where I can get some cheap cast wheels that I can run tubeless tires? All the ones I see on line are really pricey and fancy looking,. Or a good way to seal the wire wheels so I can throw the tubes away?
Keep an eye out on Ebay or Craigslist - you can regularly pick up stock cast wheels for a good price.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:07 PM   #2184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eye of the Tiger View Post
The fact that my wire wheels have tubeless tires with tubes in them makes me angry. I am used to keeping a tire plug kit with me, but I'm not patching tubes. Anyone know where I can get some cheap cast wheels that I can run tubeless tires? All the ones I see on line are really pricey and fancy looking,. Or a good way to seal the wire wheels so I can throw the tubes away?
Or, keep your spokes and convert your wheels to run tubeless. The internet is full of different DIY methods for doing this and there are companies that offer it as a service as well. I like the looks of spoked wheels but I'm like you about being stranded with no way to repair a simple puncture.

http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tec...l/viewall.html


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Old 02-15-2013, 08:44 PM   #2185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eye of the Tiger View Post
The fact that my wire wheels have tubeless tires with tubes in them makes me angry. I am used to keeping a tire plug kit with me, but I'm not patching tubes. Anyone know where I can get some cheap cast wheels that I can run tubeless tires? All the ones I see on line are really pricey and fancy looking,. Or a good way to seal the wire wheels so I can throw the tubes away?
Sorry they're in CT, but it's the best I could do on short notice.

http://hartford.craigslist.org/mcy/3620509063.html

iron 883 wheels - $500 (plainville)


looking to trade my black mag wheels of my 2012 iron 883 for black nightster wheels, may throw in cash or RSD parts to make deal
  • Location: plainville
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:36 PM   #2186
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Sorry they're in CT, but it's the best I could do on short notice.

http://hartford.craigslist.org/mcy/3620509063.html

iron 883 wheels - $500 (plainville)


looking to trade my black mag wheels of my 2012 iron 883 for black nightster wheels, may throw in cash or RSD parts to make deal
  • Location: plainville
Wow, that would be perfect. Does that mean they would pay me $500 to swap wheels? That would cover gas and a couple of nights in a hotel.
Too bad I don't have time to actually make that trip.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy View Post
Or, keep your spokes and convert your wheels to run tubeless. The internet is full of different DIY methods for doing this and there are companies that offer it as a service as well. I like the looks of spoked wheels but I'm like you about being stranded with no way to repair a simple puncture.

http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tec...l/viewall.html


$59/wheel ain't too bad, until I have to ship them all the way to California. I wonder if I can buy this sealant and do it myself.

Yes, apparently http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274533
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Old 02-16-2013, 07:09 AM   #2187
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$59/wheel ain't too bad, until I have to ship them all the way to California. I wonder if I can buy this sealant and do it myself.

Yes, apparently http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274533
Well, as I said, there are lots of DIY methods floating around the net... Lots of people do it with common off the shelf sealants and use different methods. Here's just a few of the things I found with a quick google search...

http://www.teamincomplete.com/Projec...elesswhee.html

http://cyb.smugmug.com/gallery/72508...9239&k=mT2KWZM

http://translate.google.com/translat...%3D346%26s%3D1

http://cyb.smugmug.com/gallery/72508...9239&k=mT2KWZM

http://www.gadgetjq.com/tww.htm


And then there's the Alpina kit that uses replacement spoke nipples with o-ring seals :

http://alpinawheelsusa.com/products/...it-conversion/

Of course I can't vouch for the reliability of any of these although I have read of quite a few people that have done it and had ridden tens of thousands of miles with no problems. But honestly, if you don't care about keeping the spokes, I'd do what you were originally thinking and just get mags and be done with it. I just tend to like spoked wheels on certain bikes for aesthetic reasons. Damn! There I go now! Putting form before function!


Hmmm... THIS STUFF sounds like it could be a useful product for this application if using the Teamincomplete method linked to above...
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:26 AM   #2188
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Wow, that would be perfect. Does that mean they would pay me $500 to swap wheels? That would cover gas and a couple of nights in a hotel.
Too bad I don't have time to actually make that trip.
That's quite a leap - the Plainville guy wants to sell his wheels for $500 OR trade them for wheels like yours, and you want him to give you the wheels AND the 500 zorts? You sure you don't have a KLR?

I dunno, they could be shipped, or he may be going to Daytona in a couple of weeks, who knows - send him an email, if you want. Mention my name - I'm big with the Plainvillians.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:03 PM   #2189
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Hmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by HapHazard View Post
That's quite a leap - the Plainville guy wants to sell his wheels for $500 OR trade them for wheels like yours, and you want him to give you the wheels AND the 500 zorts? You sure you don't have a KLR?

I dunno, they could be shipped, or he may be going to Daytona in a couple of weeks, who knows - send him an email, if you want. Mention my name - I'm big with the Plainvillians.
Funny that you mention KLR... I was seriously considering one as a second bike for buzzing arond town and in crummy weather. I don't like having to polish the Harley's chrome every day!
I do like the looks of that nipple ring kit that Randy posted. Nipple rings... haha. I definitely want to do that, but I think I will wait for when I buy new tires, and do everything at once. I'm thinking radials...
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:18 AM   #2190
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Wicked here is another option

http://www.storzperf.com/blowout.html

stock takeoff wheels 16/19 cast 95.00 front 125.00 rear
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