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Old 02-17-2013, 12:51 PM   #31
hugemoth
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Best tires I ever used on a HF trailer were 155-80R12 steel belted radial car tires. Lasted forever, soaked up the bumps, but just about impossible to find nowadays.
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:22 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by hugemoth View Post
Best tires I ever used on a HF trailer were 155-80R12 steel belted radial car tires. Lasted forever, soaked up the bumps, but just about impossible to find nowadays.
Good used car tires have given me the best service on all my trailers (six). Only if you are pushing the load capacity would I pay the money for trailer specific tires. Starting with a set of half worn Michelins I put over 50k on my 12 foot utility trailer without a problem. Paid $25 each mounted, never even balanced them. Most of the five lug use the old Ford bolt pattern, and a taller and wider tire is a plus if they will fit.
Most of the powder coated trailer wheels are junk also. Rust quickly and don't run true.
Other contributing factors are poorly aligned trailer axles and a built in crown in straight axles to increase the load capacity. The camber changes with load, wearing out your tires inside or outside depending on how much load you typically carry.
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:29 PM   #33
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Best tires I ever used on a HF trailer were 155-80R12 steel belted radial car tires. Lasted forever, soaked up the bumps, but just about impossible to find nowadays.
Those were the size tire that came on my 1978 Honda Civic new.
My neighbour runs the little donut spares that you can get for almost free on his. I think from a Mustang....he never gets too far from home though.
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:02 PM   #34
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Which brings up the BIG question...how the hell can I balance trailer tires?
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:19 PM   #35
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The wheel bearings on my trailers turn very freely so I just lift the wheel off the ground, give it a spin, put a weight on the top of the wheel wherever it stops, repeat until it stops in a different position each time. Works great but next time I'll just use a few ounces of airsoft BBs.

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Which brings up the BIG question...how the hell can I balance trailer tires?
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:39 PM   #36
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Which brings up the BIG question...how the hell can I balance trailer tires?
the tire shop will do it.
I just watch them in the mirror to see if they are jumping up and down,or if I feel a vibration they might need it.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:12 PM   #37
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Take the tires to walmart - about 5 bucks to balance and it will give longer life to your tires..Legally speaking, the trailers are supposed to have ST tires on them. If you have an accident with the trailer and the accident investigator determines you had auto tires you are at risk of not having insurance pay out.

I used to own a company that manufactured trailers and the poster above suggested that the trailer axle alignment should be checked to prevent uneven tire wear. He is absolutely correct. A lot of trailers are just thrown together with little regard for accuracy of alignment since the welders are paid by the number of trailers they produce. At our company we used a jig to ensure the alignment was dead on. Our guys could generally weld up a 5 x 10 in about 45 minutes and have it on the line to the paint department.

The best way to check alignment is to measure from the center of each axle cap to the center of the coupler end that goes over the hitch ball.. The measurement should be the same for each axle cap to coupler end.

The biggest issue to address on an annual basis is to remove the hubs, clean your bearings and repack. I see trailers on the side of the road all the time with the axle burned off and the tire laying on the ground. That my friends requires a whole new axle

Good luck in your trailer endeavors.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:04 AM   #38
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HELIPORT:

Thanks for the alignment measurement technique.

Regarding balancing tires...every place I've gone to that balances car tires look at me like I was from outer space when I ask about balancing a trailer tire!
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:36 PM   #39
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Looks like a nice rig and a simple/fun build.

I do have a trailer building noob question.


Why not use plywood on the floor? It seems that the steal mesh will allow all the road grime from a rainy trip to splash up on the bike. A solid floor solves that.

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Old 02-19-2013, 03:48 PM   #40
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Why not use plywood on the floor? It seems that the steal mesh will allow all the road grime from a rainy trip to splash up on the bike. A solid floor solves that.
No reason not to - I did, and most people probably do use ply rather than steel. The only downsides are damage to the floor from cargo (like snowmobile picks) and weathering.
I used porch & deck enamel on my folder that lives inside, and several coats of clear Cuprinol on the snowmobile trailer when I replaced it's floor. A rubber mat can protect the floor from those snowmobile picks. Ply is available everywhere and is also cheaper than steel - mesh or solid.
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Old 02-19-2013, 03:56 PM   #41
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I have mesh on mine, and while it does stretch under load, and does make carying stuff like dirt more difficult, it is easy to keep clean, doesn't retain water, and gives unlimited anchor points for odd cargo.




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Old 02-20-2013, 01:28 AM   #42
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I used expanded metal for a couple of reasons. First off it is much thinner than a 3/4 sheet of plywood. Second it is approximately 30% lighter than an untreated sheet of plywood dry (making it easier to fold alone). Third is I also ride trails and mx I want something I can power wash my bikes on easier. The down fall is having a floor that is more prone to sagging. I feel with proper supports that I will minimize that.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:12 AM   #43
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Just installed the folding hoist on the front.


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Old 02-21-2013, 01:15 AM   #44
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And the new wheels, which are the altogether taller despite being labeled the same size. These state on the sidewall high speed use.

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Old 02-23-2013, 10:37 PM   #45
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Well I finally got at it again. I installed the fender braces and finished the support bars for the expanded metal.



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