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Old 02-20-2013, 11:04 AM   #15886
swimmer
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Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
Well all I can say is good luck. After all, it's your bike making the rattling noise, not mine.
Your logic just doesn't make sense. If a 5W-? oil is to thin then a 10W-? oil would be too thin a at some slightly warmer temperature.

Rotella T6 is one of the most commonly used synthetic oils by motorcyclists. Been using it for a long time including track use.

My thinking of the rattling noise was more along the lines of perhaps a valve(s) becoming out of tolerance.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:16 AM   #15887
browneye
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
The most worthless thing you can spend money on is gas. Even if you come out not saving much money by using a motorcycle for your main mode of transport you are going to be wasting less money on gas. I'd rather have my money go to something more tangible. Additionally we all lose when gas consumption is high as the prices go up (and then the prices of everything goes up) so you are doing the economy a better favor by spending your money on "real" goods.
I dunno...I buy a LOT of gas. My Winnebago gets about 7.5mpg. I calculate it's fifty cents a mile just for fuel. So a 1200 mile trip costs at least $600 for gas. OUCH! Taking the bike on the same trip costs about $100. But then I can't take my wife and three dogs, or my teenager if he decides to join us.

I have also estimated the cost of owning the RV is about $12,000 a year. I guess we all have differing priorities. I have four other cars and the 3 bikes. Seems like I spend my money 'real good'.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:22 AM   #15888
lmychajluk
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Originally Posted by some call me...tim View Post
I think he meant that fork oil has a static viscosity, as opposed to changing with the temperature.
Yep. What he said.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:40 AM   #15889
lmychajluk
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Originally Posted by fbj913 View Post
to me this is an old way of thinking. oils have temperature ranges these days. a good 10w-40 will work as described as long as you stick to the correct temperature ranges described by the manufacturer. i would say most synthetic oils are good into the negative temperature ranges (def F). also companies like Amsoil say right on the oil that the 10w-40 will work for a variety of different oil needs... although this may not be true for all companies and can vary between synthetic and standard. this discussion is very much less important when talking about Synthetic! just stick to what the motor or manual says. it doesn't pay to over think when it comes to oil. old habits die hard!!! especially oil habits. even when its hot outside its best to let the bike warm up before you ride it. same goes with cold temps, it will just take longer.

APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil is recommended for liquid or air-cooled 4-stroke engines. It meets SAE 80W/90, API GL-1 gear oil requirements and is recommended for transmissions on both 4- and 2-stroke motorcycles. AMSOIL MCF is recommended for Honda®, Kawasaki®, Yamaha®, Suzuki®, BMW®, Husqvarna®, Victory® and other motorcycles where 10W-40 or 20W-40 engine oils or SAE 80W/90, GL-1 gear oils are used. Not recommended where an API GL-4 or GL-5 gear oil is required.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...otorcycle-oil/


i hate oil discussions. its way to opinionated!!!
But I wouldn't run it regularly in a motor that called for xW-30 weight oil, unless I had a very specific reason to, because the second value is what's important once up to temp, and where your motor spends most of its time. A 40 would be less viscous in a warm motor. Running a oil with a slightly higher cold viscosity (lower first number) just means that it flows easier when cold, but will 'thicken' as it warms.

Quote:
The viscosity will determine how easily the oil is pumped to the working components, how easily it will pass through the filter, and how quickly it will drain back to the engine. The lower the viscosity the easier all this will happen. That is why cold starts are so critical to an engine because the oil is cold, and so relatively thick.
But, the lower the viscosity, the less the load the oil can support at the bearing on the crankshaft. The higher the viscosity, the better the load it can support. Even this, however, has a trade-off, since the higher the viscosity, the more the drag at the bearing, and hence, potential power loss, or increased fuel consumption. So a compromise is chosen to minimise power loss, but maximise load support.
http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto..._explained.htm
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:50 AM   #15890
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Thanks for all the responses everyone. I'm awaiting a call from my local Triumph dealer on an 800xc OTD price. My goals for this bike is simple, everyday commuter and fun bike. Ill keep the 4runner for the crap days and hauling my dogs. BTW the mpg on my 4runner is 19 .
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:54 AM   #15891
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Originally Posted by browneye View Post
Seems like I spend my money 'real good'.
lol. I guess my point was riding a motorcycle is the best option. For a lot of reasons.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:09 PM   #15892
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
lol. I guess my point was riding a motorcycle is the best option. For a lot of reasons.
I like that point!
I just got an OTD price which I think is very fair. Looks like there is a Tiger on my near future!
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:31 PM   #15893
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Originally Posted by Hulley View Post
Thanks for all the responses everyone. I'm awaiting a call from my local Triumph dealer on an 800xc OTD price. My goals for this bike is simple, everyday commuter and fun bike. Ill keep the 4runner for the crap days and hauling my dogs. BTW the mpg on my 4runner is 19 .
That's not bad as I have an 800XC and my second is a built Jeep Wrangler getting 13mpg.... I use the bike whenever I can in IL.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:52 PM   #15894
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
A couple of months ago when it started to get cold here (upper 30's and below will qualify for cold in tucson) I noticed that for several seconds after starting my tiger in the morning I'd get a little clatter noise coming from the engine. Not to be confused with the standard assortment of noises this engine makes. Sound sort of like a valve "ticking" noise. It does not happen when the temps are a little warmer. Just wondering if anyone else notices this in colder temps.
Both, my Daytona 675 and Tiger 1050 made/make that noise. Valves were/are all in spec. I ran/run the specified viscosity oil. The Daytona had nearly 3500 track miles on it and was ridden nearly year-'round. I ride the Tiger, year-'round. I wouldn't worry about a little valve clatter, upon start up. Once things get warmed up a bit, valve tolerances tighten.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:09 PM   #15895
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Someone please kill the new format.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:52 PM   #15896
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someone please kill the new format.
+1
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:56 PM   #15897
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Originally Posted by HelmetHead Cycle View Post
+1
bottom right drop down menu. Change back to 2.0 from crush or whatever...
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:04 PM   #15898
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
bottom right drop down menu. Change back to 2.0 from crush or whatever...
You are the man! Thanks. My eyes were beginning to explode.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:35 PM   #15899
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
bottom right drop down menu. Change back to 2.0 from crush or whatever...
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:45 PM   #15900
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Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
Both, my Daytona 675 and Tiger 1050 made/make that noise. Valves were/are all in spec. I ran/run the specified viscosity oil. The Daytona had nearly 3500 track miles on it and was ridden nearly year-'round. I ride the Tiger, year-'round. I wouldn't worry about a little valve clatter, upon start up. Once things get warmed up a bit, valve tolerances tighten.
For what it's worth, mine started making that startup clatter at about 6,000 miles. It irritated me, so I followed the procedure in the manual for removing the tensioner. Looking at it, I saw that the resister ring (the piece tht holds the plunger in place in absence of oil pressure) was out of position. I reset the ring and reinstalled the tensioner and no more noise.
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