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Old 08-29-2010, 07:17 PM   #16
Joined: Sep 2009
Oddometer: 5
Question Durafix

I just bought some durafix rods from the local distributor here in Aus, did some testing on the weekend.

Important point about this stuff was to follow the instructions carefully. few major points:
1. Al oxidises very quickly so it is important to clean well and
2. immediately thoughoughly brush with a stainless steel wire brush (supplied in the kit I bought.
3. need lots of heat, I used a cheap propane worked but only on smaller pieces.
4. you need to kinda rub the rod into the area to be joined.

test 1:

first I tried to butt weld two pieced of gen purpose 10mm angle Al. properly cleaned and brushed....failed cause I had it in the vice and there was enough heat sinkin in the vice for it not to get hot enough.

test 2:

a 70mmx70mmx3mm plate with a 30mm x 20mm offcut rod of 7075-t6 grade alloy: this i did with no real heat sinking and followed the instructions, I also beveled the rod offcut where I sat it end-on in the middle of the plate. proceded to heat and solder...

Viola! nicely joined and so I put it in the vice and proceeded to try to rip it apart. part of the weld broke away as I started (the 7075 was the bit in the vice) then the al plate basically got a hole torn in it and left about a half circle of the plate still attached to the 7075!!! I'd call that a success!!

now had I clamped the pieces I could have "rubbed" the rod properly as instucted without moving the rod offcut around. it was just sitting there on the bench.

test 3:

tried to do the same as above with some brass rod (this is supposed to be possible) It seemed to flow well onto the brass but the brass was very polished and although it appeared to bond very well leaving a deposit just like it had been "tinned" like when soldering, the bond was VERY poor and required very little effort to break away from the left all of the weld on the sheet....FAIL but I would like to test this a bit more.

Anyway, I am very excited about making some things with this stuff and am confident that effective repairs and fabrication can be done as long is proper testing is performed and you don't try to weld up a handlebar or anything super critical.

The other thought was that with a hot camping stove and one or two rods you'd be able to field weld cracked engine casings or maybe even a frame if your life depended on it. as longs as you could get the heat into it....some camping stoves have quite a bit of heat output.....maybe ad in a 40 degree day in the desert and you might just have a solution for a snapped suspension linkage (if you ride really slowly!)
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:47 PM   #17
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Location: The only county in Illinois with no train tracks
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Originally Posted by Pike Bishop
FWIW, I would avoid using Alumaweld (zinc) in an aluminum boat or an aluminum lower unit that spends any significant time in the water because you'll get a galvanic corrosion situation where the zinc will eventually disappear ... just like a zinc anode.
You may be correct in regards to salt water, but I live between 2 rivers and back in the 80's when I was doing it for a living I repaired a ton of broken props with this rod. And a propane torch most of the time.

As mentioned, clean the metal (I used a file mostly) and use a SS brush while you are heating it. I never used flux but I must have tried a few back then, and if it had made a difference I'd have kept using it.

One last thing- using a decent propane torch makes a HUGE difference! You owe it to yourself to buy one of these:

It pumps out heat, and is auto start and stop, just squeeze the button for fire, and let go when you want the fire to stop. Get the one like this one with a variable flame, it gives you a bit more flexibility than the fixed flame model does.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:26 AM   #18
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Location: Seven Springs NC
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My dad with 40 years of mechanic and 10+ years of welding experience swear by MuddyWeld and he said he will teach me how to use it properly.

When he got a job (his last job before doctor declared him disabled) with County Public School Bus Garage (had to get job there due to no pre-existing health benefit), he said nobody there knew anything about MuggyWeld and their method were time consuming and costly. Say a 120psi brake copper pipe burst open and bus is sided with students waiting to get home/school, old method was to send back-up bus so it could be used for students to be taken home/school and they take the pipe to the garage and weld it together before returning to the bus. That was before my dad introduced MuggyWeld. With muggyweld, it took 20 mins or less to fix the pipe on hose then bus is on its way. No back-up bus delivered and few trips of getting the pipe fixed. Less labor time.

Now I am thinking of making aluminum fuel tank and he told me he will teach me how to put it together and he is most certain my fuel tank would hold together using MuggyWeld. I'll be back with my own review later..
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:19 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Skippii View Post
They melt, ball up into spheres, and roll off whatever you were trying to repair.
Too much heat on the rod, not enough on the part you trying to stick it to. I've used them, and with some practice they work rather well.

The solder analogy is spot-on too.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:41 PM   #20
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I have used both the aluminum solder and the brazing products from They both work. The solder is great for "utility" uses, fixing leaks, petcock fittings, etc. It is extra great for fixing pinhole leaks in a welding seam. I uses them with an acetelyne/air torch.
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:53 PM   #21
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The aluminum repair rod is a zinc/aluminum alloy. It is generally stronger than the base aluminum, but has little to low ductility compared to aluminum. So, the use depends on the application. I used some to repair a turn signal bracket which was part of a Krauser mount and it worked fine.

Having the aluminum really clean and using a stainless steel brush (used only on aluminum) to clean the hot aluminum surface and brush the surface when hot enough to melt the repair rod is needed. So much that brushing the aluminum while applying the rod to the hot aluminum is key. The technique is essentially soldering or brazing except no flux is used. The 'flux' comes from applying the stainless steel brush to remove the oxide layer when applying the rod.

The problems are the brittle repair and potential corrosion. For many applications, the lack of ductility is not an issue and paint will prevent corrosion. But, the aluminum for repair has to be hotter than the melting temperature of the rod.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:07 PM   #22
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... and once you get that zinc crap all over everything it is harder to weld the real way
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:29 PM   #23
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This is what I use, It works perfectly, and they say the weld is stronger than the base metal which I'm inclined to agree with. Just make sure to brush the hell out of the base metal with a stainless steal brush until it shines. Must be super clean!
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:49 PM   #24
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Truly gas weld aluminum was done prior to TIG.
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:42 AM   #25
Joined: Sep 2009
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found this old thread I posted to ages ago thought I'd give an update.

well, I build tool box, full rack and have welded up numerous other items, to date I have not had a single joint failure!!!

the rack had done about 10,000km on rough roads and few thousand on sealed roads, 7,000k round aus trip fully loaded.

the rack is 1" tube with a few mitred joints.

I still can't believe how well it has held up.

If anyone is interested i'll take some pics of the rack but I had to butcher it to fit the gsxr muffler.

Oh yeah and I have crashed in the sand fully loaded at about 70kmh and dropped it at least twice at other times with

happy days!
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Old 01-04-2015, 12:58 PM   #26
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Apache Junction, Az
Oddometer: 717
Learning to use HTS2000...
I don't weld, make lots of brackets out of aluminum, and sometimes really need to 'weld' some of them together.
What I've learned so far after buying the 1 lb starter kit of HTS2000 is to use candle soot first so I can tell when the temp is getting sorta close. (Think the soot goes away at about 500, and the brazing rod needs to see about 700 to melt.)
Second, never skip the stainless steel brush cleaning step, I do it after the soot is gone to prep the material for the braze. And third, the braze rod must melt due to the temp of the aluminum you're trying to braze, not because you're putting it directly in the heat of the torch. And finally, I bought one of the Benzamatic torch lighters using it on normal propane. Gets things hot enough so long as you're dealing with small enough parts and you don't have them clamped with a heat sink too close to the working area. Still learning; so far I'm not very good at figuring out how to do the preclamps so the brazing goes smoothly. But it does work, and certainly seems stronger than JB weld, which was one of my old standbys. YMMV, post up if you have good advice for us metal noobs. roy
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Old 01-04-2015, 01:18 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
Learning to use HTS2000...
I don't weld, make lots of brackets out of aluminum, and sometimes really need to 'weld' some of them together.
What I've learned so far after buying the 1 lb starter kit of HTS2000 is to use candle soot first so I can tell when the temp is getting sorta close. (Think the soot goes away at about 500, and the brazing rod needs to see about 700 to melt.)
You can buy temp sticks that melt at predetermined temperatures. Better than soot.

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