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Old 01-18-2013, 08:24 PM   #556
Two Wheel Tractor
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need tool list for Xchallenge 650

Hello,

Looking to build up a good touring tool kit for my BMW XChangeller 650. Wrenches, sizes, hex sizes, etc..
Please post or send a link.
Thanks !!!
please reply to web link !
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:44 AM   #557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khpossum View Post
I bought an xchallenge recently and the rear plastic white part that goes form the seat to the rear light has some cracks in it. It seemed like a repair was attempted with epoxy / fiberglass but did not work. The part is made of something else then fiberglass. Anybody know what works with this plastic for repairs?
Is the plastic actually cracked all the way through, or is it just the white paint/coating over the plastic. Mine has several chips and cracks, but the plastic part itself is still intact. I've just left it alone. I'd probably just dump it again after I painted it.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:37 AM   #558
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The plastic itself is cracked in 3 places due some abuse (fun).

Kp
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:43 AM   #559
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The plastic itself is cracked in 3 places due some abuse (fun).

Kp
I can't imagine any repair to the plastic that would hold up. My guess would be just replace the piece. I'm sure bmw doesn't charge much for that rear piece..
All three of my plastic pieces are pretty banged up. Both fronts along with the rear.. I've just been putting stickers over the chips in the white paint. Maybe I'll replace them if I ever sell the bike..
"Never dropped" "Like new" ha..
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:32 PM   #560
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new one is "only" $223. I will have to start experimenting.

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Old 01-24-2013, 12:38 AM   #561
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Originally Posted by khpossum View Post
new one is "only" $223. I will have to start experimenting.

KP
not sure exactly what type of plastic the fairing is but if it is ABS then you can weld it back together - you can buy ABS welding rods and then use a decent soldering iron to weld them back together - have done it on my old bike. there's also a chemical welding method but can't recall which chemicals you need...

for the plastic welding you basically file the cracks to make a nice groove (the ABS rods should be a triangular cross-section) until the rods sit in them nicely, then apply the soldering iron to melt it all together... takes a bit of practice but i dropped my old super tenere on the welds plenty of time and they didn't crack again....
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:51 PM   #562
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Xmoto. ~55k km.

I too have the warm start problem (where it will crank over forever but never fire after filling up with fuel). I've had it intermittently since getting the bike, but it seems to be worst when it's raining - I seem to always be stuck at a fuel station in the rain.

If the bike is hot and not stopped for too long then it's fine. If the bike is cold then it's fine. It seems that the time it takes to fill up and pay for fuel is the sweet spot for making it fail.

The other day I had it fail on me, and after cranking for a few minutes I decided to roll start it. I rolled it down a large hill, in third, and the engine was rotating at a decent speed for probably 10 seconds total - and not one fire. After pushing it back to the top of the hill it magically started again.

The sticking injector theory is interesting. I might try a bottle of injector cleaner followed by the 2-stroke oil idea and see how it goes (I already have a new set of plugs waiting for when they get fouled).

I'm also going to be more diligent with putting it on the trickle charger overnight (although I do ride it 5+ days a week) in a pretty warm environment.

I'm certainly less than impressed with the reliability from a ~BMW~ (it seems to be more aprilia than bmw)
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:36 PM   #563
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Having an issue. Changed the plugs among other things (non engine related) and after putting it all back together it cranks but won't fire. Fuses all good and everything looks right. Have to check spark and see if they are both firing. Didn't touch the fuel system at all so that should be good. Did all the usual stuff, side stand switch, clutch lever, etc... I'm stumped at this point. I think I'll pull the plugs and do it all over in case I missed something. I know I have the two coils right.
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:49 PM   #564
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These bikes are incredibly sensitive to voltage from what I've discovered. If the battery isn't great then the cranking voltage will cause them not to fire - otherwise known as the G650 hot start issue. Check your battery.
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:52 PM   #565
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Did you unplug the sensor on the air box and not get it fully seated when reassembling?


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Old 03-03-2013, 07:05 PM   #566
Royal Tiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macrocephalic View Post
These bikes are incredibly sensitive to voltage from what I've discovered. If the battery isn't great then the cranking voltage will cause them not to fire - otherwise known as the G650 hot start issue. Check your battery.
Battery was on a tender the whole time the bike was apart but I'll check it. Thanks.


Quote:
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Did you unplug the sensor on the air box and not get it fully seated when reassembling?


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I'll check it to make sure. Thank you.
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:38 AM   #567
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Hi all, I am responding to RT's replies above. His bike is at my place. He dropped it off in December, and it has been sitting since, while we work on it. The seat, side panels and top panel have been removed. We removed the air box to change the spark plugs. Both coils were removed, the connectors were kept separate so we did not mess up the installation order. I did disconnect the probe connector. The plugs were changed and everything reinstalled the way it came off, including the connector. Once that was done, we re-installed the airbox, replaced front and rear brake pads, flushed the brake lines, installed a centerstand (it did not affect the side stand switch in any way), added crash bars up front, and I just changed out the coolant. We added heated grips (Oxford Heaterz), I consolidated the three accessory power wires (power port, battery tender, heated grips) into one negative, one positive connection, so there are only two negative connections and two positive connections to the battery, accessories and main leads. The battery has been on a tender and was fully charged. I did not perform a load test. When I reconnected the battery, the dash lit up momentarily, then went off (the key was in the OFF position).

I wanted to start the bike to circulate the coolant and finish adding the coolant (has about 150 mL to go). Turn the key on, everything lights up strong. I lifted the side stand, pulled in the clutch lever, made sure the kill switch was in the run position, and hit the button. It turned over just fine, lights stayed bright, but would not fire. It has gas.

I have now gone over the plug connectors and coils again, all looks right. The probe is connected tight. I will charge the battery again and do a load check, but it seems fine. I didn't hear any fuel pump noise, but I don't know what they sound like on these (I am used to carb'ed bikes). We didn't touch the fuel system. All fuses are good. No messages on the screen.

I am at a complete loss. I will check for spark by removing a coil, placing another plug in it and grounding on the head. Assuming it has spark, what is the next step?
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:19 PM   #568
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Okay, I can hear the fuel pump cycle with the kill switch, and I smell fuel through the TB after cranking. I removed one coil, added another plug, grounded with a wire to the battery negative, and cranked. I get one blue/white spark, then nothing as it cranks. If I stop cranking, wait, then crank again, I get one spark, then nothing.

I have also swapped out the clutch lever, it was changed after the bike arrived at my place, and the bike has not run since. The area near the clutch switch is different between the two levers, so maybe I'll get lucky. The battery is back on the charger right now.

I'm 99% certain this is a spark issue, something not letting the coils fire.
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:41 PM   #569
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ARoz, you sure your new clutch lever is completing the safety circuit when pulled in. Bike won't start with that switch open - I don't know if it will crank without the switch.
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:51 PM   #570
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ARoz, you sure your new clutch lever is completing the safety circuit when pulled in. Bike won't start with that switch open - I don't know if it will crank without the switch.
My bike starts just fine with the clutch out. Startup procedure for me is, turn key, make sure bike is in neutral, DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING, then press the start button firmly. If you don't press the button firmly and it gets through 2 rotations then stops then it will be harder to start after. If you mess with the throttle during the POST then it will affect idle etc.

That said, I still think it sounds a lot like the whole warm start issue that many have.
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