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Old 02-25-2013, 12:12 PM   #7486
Bruno T .
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
I think the suspension that the factory bike starts with is just better out of the box and more tuneable. The rear shock is different as are the forks and even the frame is different on that bike. The closest out of the box is probably a set of SXS forks and maybe an Ohlins shock ...if there is one that fits the frame...probably a $4000 package before tuning.
That's it, Seth.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:16 PM   #7487
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Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
I think there are several of us who fell in love with the factory rally bike through actually riding it or just seeing it in action...who now want something similar in the normal version. I think the suspension that the factory bike starts with is just better out of the box and more tuneable. The rear shock is different as are the forks and even the frame is different on that bike. The closest out of the box is probably a set of SXS forks and maybe an Ohlins shock ...if there is one that fits the frame...probably a $4000 package before tuning.

I agree, pretty much different motorcycles that are sharing a few components and a KTM badge. If I recall correctly the RR frame has a few less cross braces in a few areas. With the fixed and dynamic mass locations, weight and suspension being rather different the semi common area is the engine. Even at that the 700cc RR race spec engine behaves differently than the 08 short stroke 654cc

Crankshaft went the SXS fork route. I've chatted with him about this change. After doing a bit of research about the differences of close/open chamber forks, I am going to stay away from the closed twin chamber forks for this application.

My goal is going to be setting it up in "soft desert" trim (245lb rider weight) with clickers set at mid positions to deal with the broad range of DS type work the bike will be doing. I believe the best way for me to get there is to run higher rate springs both front and rear (.56-.58 front, 9.2-9.5 rear) with associated damping changes (soften compression, increase rebound bases). The hope is that when I get off into the local single track and jeep trails I can pull back the dials enough to get it close to a "stiff trail" setup. I might even take a look at the RR fork clamp assembly on Steve's RR to see if the offset and total trail is different. That might be interesting to know.....
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:22 PM   #7488
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Once you see the price of the RR triple you will re think and just use a sxs triple
The frame has more gussets and longer at the head stem / back bone there are some pic of comas bike and deperes and there's is a noticeable differences in the head stem area
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:37 PM   #7489
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I am sure the RR prices are crazy. Just curious if it would be possible to emulate the geometry without cutting/pasting the frame, which is technically possible, just lots of work. I am going to see if i can spend some one on one time with a RR and a frame jig to baseline and compare to the 690 E

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Old 02-25-2013, 09:32 PM   #7490
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Stiction on forks

I just bought a used 2012 690 with 800 miles. I know that the forks will have a break in period that will reduce the stiction. I do not want to start changing things until the forks are broken it. About how many road miles will the forks and shock need before they are broken it?
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:49 PM   #7491
Mudguts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post
I am sure the RR prices are crazy. Just curious if it would be possible to emulate the geometry without cutting/pasting the frame, which is technically possible, just lots of work. I am going to see if i can spend some one on one time with a RR and a frame jig to baseline and compare to the 690 E

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Trail 120mm
Fork angle 28deg
Wheel base. 1535
Triple off set 22
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:13 AM   #7492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post
I am sure the RR prices are crazy. Just curious if it would be possible to emulate the geometry without cutting/pasting the frame, which is technically possible, just lots of work. I am going to see if i can spend some one on one time with a RR and a frame jig to baseline and compare to the 690 E

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I am pretty sure that the 690 RR (as in Rally Replica) frames have the same geometry as the 690 E / R / SMC, with a few welded on brackets for the Rally tanks? It's only the factory frames of Coma and Despres that are unique and different from the RR that was available for purchase, and even from each other.

I wouldn't get the RR triples for $$s, you can get 22mm offset from the stock 08-11 ones and bolt on a stabilizer with an adapter (RR has it cast into the upper clamp).

RR does use a longer swingarm though, so the stability will be hard to replicate.
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:22 AM   #7493
Christophe
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Exactly the same as my 2012. I was going to try to prise them out but didn't bother in the end. I've got that rust too. I just greased the hell out of everything and put it back together. I'll check every time I change tyres and again near the end of the warranty period. If it's not good then KTM can fix it

There's hardly any grease on the front wheel either.
I guess they changed something with the 2012 model... with my 2011 the spacers usually fall off on their own while changing the tire.
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:58 AM   #7494
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http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=866131
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Old 02-26-2013, 12:33 PM   #7495
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How much brighter is that headlight?
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:05 PM   #7496
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How much brighter is that headlight?
1000 times !!!!!!
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:16 PM   #7497
lightfighter
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Yeah, it's pretty bright. Appearantly it's bright enuf to anger people on the east coast all the way from AZ.

I didn't take any yet, but I was gonna fire up the stock light off an accessory lead and take comparison shots just cuz i geek out like that.
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:27 PM   #7498
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatSmith View Post
I just bought a used 2012 690 with 800 miles. I know that the forks will have a break in period that will reduce the stiction. I do not want to start changing things until the forks are broken it. About how many road miles will the forks and shock need before they are broken it?
You need to put about 50,000 miles on the stock forks before the internals are damaged enough to have a nice smooth ride.
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:33 PM   #7499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
You need to put about 50,000 miles on the stock forks before the internals are damaged enough to have a nice smooth ride.

That's funny. I was loosely considering putting my 08's forks on the 2012 because I finally got the clickers tuned in a way that I like... after 30k miles.
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Old 02-26-2013, 02:42 PM   #7500
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You guys are brutal!
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