Any Honda Dominator NX650 owners out there ?

[dstriffler]

Originally Posted by mas335

I haven't followed this entire discussion about the Countershaft sprocket so I am not sure what the main issue is. I do know that the OEM sprocket has been discontiuned for a while so I ordered a JT 15T sprocket.

It seems you all are concerned about the over all width or thickness so that you have a wider "foot print" on the output shaft which is wise. Since my JT sprocket is installed it is hard to get a perfect measurement but the cog itself is 6mm thick. There is a machined offset at the spines to make that area thicker, my estimation is it appears to be about 2mm so the over all thickness (width) 8mm at the center is this cog. I do not recall the back side having any such increased width or offset.

The only thing I did not like about this cog is that the raised portion at the spline bore was machined round, makes producing it much easier and cheaper but the lock plate is not round. When you tighten the locking plate screws the outer edges want to bend towards the cog because there is no metal to "shoulder" the plate against, I didn't like this. My solution was easy, I got washers that were small in overall diameter and the right thickness and put them behind the plate so the screws could tighten without bending the plate.

While typing this I seem to remember that I ground a spot on the washer edges so that they would fit closer to the machined offset portion of the cog. Seems the washers would not line up with the screws without doing this. I may also have filed the washer down to match the thickness of the offset or gap so that there was no flexing, it made for a perfect fit.

The cog number is JTF 281-15 made by JT sprockets

Thats exactly what I needed thank you!

[mas335]

need a photo of it installed?

[dstriffler]

Sure that would be great.

[mas335]

Yes, I am running a 525 chain, I had a new DID and it works fine.




You can see the clearance behind the lock plate as it shoulders against the cog offset. Note the washers behind the screws to keep the plate from bending. The oem Honda cog has a machined area that matches the shape of the locking plate which prevents the plate from bending. The OEM sprocket is a far better design but you take what you can get now that they are discontinued.

[sw3dl1]

Originally Posted by mas335

I haven't followed this entire discussion about the Countershaft sprocket so I am not sure what the main issue is. I do know that the OEM sprocket has been discontiuned for a while so I ordered a JT 15T sprocket.

It seems you all are concerned about the over all width or thickness so that you have a wider "foot print" on the output shaft which is wise. Since my JT sprocket is installed it is hard to get a perfect measurement but the cog itself is 6mm thick. There is a machined offset at the spines to make that area thicker, my estimation is it appears to be about 2mm so the over all thickness (width) 8mm at the center is this cog. I do not recall the back side having any such increased width or offset.

The only thing I did not like about this cog is that the raised portion at the spline bore was machined round, makes producing it much easier and cheaper but the lock plate is not round. When you tighten the locking plate screws the outer edges want to bend towards the cog because there is no metal to "shoulder" the plate against, I didn't like this. My solution was easy, I got washers that were small in overall diameter and the right thickness and put them behind the plate so the screws could tighten without bending the plate.

While typing this I seem to remember that I ground a spot on the washer edges so that they would fit closer to the machined offset portion of the cog. Seems the washers would not line up with the screws without doing this. I may also have filed the washer down to match the thickness of the offset or gap so that there was no flexing, it made for a perfect fit.

The cog number is JTF 281-15 made by JT sprockets

Mark,
This discussion is very timely for me. I'm in the process of putting my 88 NX back together and installed the front sprocket yesterday. The bike only has 2900 miles on it and the sprockets looked good. When I took the front sprocket off the bike, the off-set was facing the engine side, the flat side was to the outside. I guess someone could have changed the sprocket over the years but given the bike's mileage and the condition it was in when I got it, I doubt sprocket and chain maintenance was high on their list of priorities. If it was changed it would not surprise me if it were installed backwards. If the sprocket is mounted off-set to the inside, there is no need for the washers and everything bolts down without a problem.
Now you have me thinking about which way is correct and how much diffrence it makes. I didn't pay much attention to the sprocket it's self, what are the marking on an original Honda Sprocket. I haven't put the chain on yet so it is easy enoigh to pull and check it or change it.
Don

[mas335]

Hey Don,
Your comments made me think back about my reasoning for this lock plate/washer solution, I have worked on a lot of bikes since I overhauled this NX and I forgot an important point.

You are exactly correct, flush side goes out but I have this cog reversed for a good reason. I failed to remember that I am NOT running a NX rear wheel but a XL600 wheel, I reversed the cog to get the chain lined up better.

The NX rear wheel that I had was badly corroded on the inside and with minor modifying the XL600 wheel works perfect and they can be found much easier that a NX rear wheel replacement.

I could have run the sprocket with the normal flat side out but I just didn't like the chain line angle, it was very minor but you know me.

At least this error on my part was found quickly, thanks.

[sw3dl1]

Mark,
Thanks for letting me know. This is the bike I plan to use on the TAT. I don't want a problem form someting as simple as a counter-sprocket.
Don

[equator]

I was just looking at this years acerbis plastics catalog (international version 2013) and found that they have the NX Dominator 23 liters tank listed on the plastic tanks page. All years, fromm '88 to '03.
I'm thinking its for the 650, since the cc is not indicated.
I thought some folks here might like to check it out.

http://www.acerbis.it/moto/cataloghi/

[mikejohn]

anyone have a intake boot that they might want to sell?

[slowhatch]

Originally Posted by equator

I was just looking at this years acerbis plastics catalog (international version 2013) and found that they have the NX Dominator 23 liters tank listed on the plastic tanks page. All years, fromm '88 to '03.
I'm thinking its for the 650, since the cc is not indicated.
I thought some folks here might like to check it out.

http://www.acerbis.it/moto/cataloghi/

That is the correct numbers for the us bikes. Looking through older catalogs it is also is the first year they have listed it in their catalog. Emailing them now. I'll let you know

[dstriffler]

Thought I'd take the bike out on the beach today before Spring comes and people are everywhere.






I got off the beach just as the dump trucks were pulling in. The pic of the water is of a baby seal stranded on the beach. I'm not sure why the camera makes it look so far away, but it was pretty close. If it were warmer I'd wade out to it. And for the record I thought the 'Soft Sand' sign was dumb, but the sand was REALLY soft. Very tough without a quad.

[mas335]

I have Tach problems, when at idle it reads about 800 rpms high, at road speeds ( 65-70mph ) the tach reads about 2,000 rpms too high. I have temporarily installed another NX speedo/tach assembly just to be satisfied that the problem is in this tach itself and it is. Other than the hi rpm reading everything else works as it should.

I have owned 4 NX650's and worked on a few more and this is the only problem of this kind that I have seen or heard of. Anyone else heard of this issue and is there a solution.

Thanks

[dstriffler]

My tach's always been spot on, but my speedo broke again today on the way home! The cable is tight, I haven't pulled it apart but I bet its that gear again. That's twice in 4000 miles!

[Pasoren]

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Just fitted my new Hepco and Backer rear rack and carrier today. Bought these from a dealer who had them laying around. Paid $140 for them, and bought the cases second hand (never used, price tag still on) for $260. Quite reasonable I think.

The indicator lights is an issue however. It's to tight a fit. I'll try to fit some LED lights I bought cheap on eBay in one of the two positions you see on the photos.

Anyone else who solved this in another way?

[dstriffler]

I took them off and cut them down. I like the large indicators instead of the LED ones, so I cut out the middle part where all the flex is. Then I glued the head onto the smaller main shaft. Now they're still big and visible, but they won't ever hit the ground or get in the way.