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Old 02-27-2013, 02:39 PM   #74116
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fitzduder View Post
so this may have been covered somewhere else, but I need some help. I changed my oil a few months ago, and found a small metal dowel in the oil. I think it might be cam chain gear pin. does anyone know how much it might cost to have it put back, and is this something I might be able to do myself. I just want to ride my bike again.
any pic or what are it's measurements??
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:46 PM   #74117
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
EXCELLENT! I hope you have time to keep us all updated here!
Hope it goes well!
Thanks! I'll keep you guys updated. I'm still anxiously awaiting the arrival of my parts. Can't wait to get this thing back on the road.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:20 PM   #74118
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no pic right now. I'll take one when I get home. it's maybe 1cm long and about half that in width. perfectly smooth no sheer marks like it broke off of something. there aren't any threads like it would screw into anything.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:40 PM   #74119
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Originally Posted by Mr. Canoehead View Post



Ok, I see that but (as you said) it is talking about service limits on old rings and doesn't say anything about new clearances. It is the Engine Components Inspection section.

I guess Suzuki might be that confident of their tolerances but every other shop manual I have ever used has recommended measuring the gaps on new rings. A noob reading this might reasonably assume that zero gap is what you want or that new rings don't have to be measured.

BTW, I am using Snag-It off my PDF copy of the manual to post images.
Mine shows it under specs (9-4) .012-.018" top and .018-.024" 2nd ring.

I wouldn't run the .012" if it was mine. I would go with .018" top and .020" second if you want to keep with what suzuki reccomends. Are you using a stock piston? Different piston materials transfer heat differently- and heat is what causes a ring gap to get narrower. If I was running an aftermarket piston I would probably run .020" top and .023" 2nd ring.

Just my opinion.
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:12 PM   #74120
newride
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What is this part?

Back, bottom right of cylinder. It seems to be leaking some oil. Maybe done gasket?

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/w...ket/DRpart.jpg
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:24 PM   #74121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newride View Post
Back, bottom right of cylinder. It seems to be leaking some oil. Maybe done gasket?

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/w...ket/DRpart.jpg
Cam chain tensioner, or oil line.

Not unknown for the tensioners to leak it seems, and not too hard to fix.

Get engine to TDCC and remove. Remove cap, unwind tensioner until it locks. Assemble with a new gasket after cleaning surfaces, or bog up what you have with sealant. Unlock tensioner and replace cap.
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:13 PM   #74122
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I would like to verify

Choke on or close the choke means pulling the lever(pulling the knob on other bikes) correct?
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:41 PM   #74123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Cam chain tensioner, or oil line.
I just noticed mine decided to leak. :-| (at 44,118 miles)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Not unknown for the tensioners to leak it seems, and not too hard to fix.
It's not too hard to fix, but make sure you understand what you need to do. Some time ago C2C4C killed his cam chain doing it wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Get engine to TDCC and remove. Remove cap, unwind tensioner until it locks. Assemble with a new gasket after cleaning surfaces, or bog up what you have with sealant. Unlock tensioner and replace cap.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren20 View Post
I would like to verify

Choke on or close the choke means pulling the lever toward the rider (pulling the knob on other bikes) correct?
Yep.
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ER70S-2 screwed with this post 02-27-2013 at 07:52 PM
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:50 PM   #74124
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heard a good bit of negatives on the moose bearings, where is a source for some better kits for the rear wheel? cush bearing is toast and I was going to replace the rear wheel bearings also. need new cush rubbers as well so I was about to order from Procycle but I saw they have to moose bearings.
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:00 PM   #74125
ER70S-2
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I did the Moose bearings once and have since decided that the OEM Zuki bearings are better for me. Just remove the seals from the old bearings and double seal the OEM bearings.

Like this:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=81
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Quote:
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:27 PM   #74126
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did they make it to the next tire change? lol seriously I need to get some on the way asap, no local zuki dealer where is a good place to order?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
I did the Moose bearings once and have since decided that the OEM Zuki bearings are better for me. Just remove the seals from the old bearings and double seal the OEM bearings.

Like this:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=81
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:41 PM   #74127
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Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
Did they make it to the next tire change? lol seriously I need to get some on the way asap, no local zuki dealer. Where is a good place to order?
No local Zuki dealer, in Fla? I thought that state was bumper to bumper tourists. Sure, they lasted to the next tire change. But once the ????? were in my head, I decided not to use them again. Bike Bandit and Ron Ayers are two favorites.

Edit: Pick Bike Bandit, Ayers waited a week to send me parts; waiting on something petty (don't remember).
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Quote:
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:50 PM   #74128
Mongle
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Moose and suzuki dont make bearings; they buy them from someone else. Take the old bearings to a bearing supply house and ask for quality replacements. They should be able to set you right up.

Edit: I have an account with Applied Bearings but I think they sell to the public too. They have several locations and it has never taken more than 2 days to get stuff.

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Old 02-27-2013, 10:38 PM   #74129
refokus
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Bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by badweatherbiker View Post
heard a good bit of negatives on the moose bearings, where is a source for some better kits for the rear wheel? cush bearing is toast and I was going to replace the rear wheel bearings also. need new cush rubbers as well so I was about to order from Procycle but I saw they have to moose bearings.
Post 74274 on this thread. Eakins posted bearing info, one page back
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:31 AM   #74130
Mambo Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
...
I've been buying SKF from Napa or a bearing shop lately.
They cost more but last longer.

Bearings:
-Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
-Front wheel seal: 09284-23001
-Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
2 x 6204 - 20x47x14
-Rear wheel seal (brake side): 09283-26019
1 x 26x47x7
-Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a
-Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RSJ
1 x 6205 - 25x52x15
-Cush Seal - 1 x 35x52x7
-------------------------------------------
Two 6003 2RS
Two 6204 2RS
One 6205 2RS
?

This is excellent info, thank you eakins - but what are the last three referring to?
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