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Old 02-12-2013, 10:12 PM   #16
dnrobertson
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Frankston, Australia
Oddometer: 715
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmhrc628 View Post
Can you please tell me how to read that manual ?

What do the letters mean?
They tie in with the connector codes in the official KTM wiring diagrams.

eg on the 2005 640A, the rear taillight uses a AJ/BG combo (male/female).
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2005 KTM 640A
2008 Wee-Strom
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:45 PM   #17
h2oplayer
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Location: Gig Harbor
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Female plug

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmhrc628 View Post
Can you guys help me locate where if this ktm connector is molex and where I'd get the connector and pins from for the female side?



It's from the Cev switch block
Here you go $2.70 including socket pins

http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog...oducts_id=9655
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Don - Gig Harbor, WA
GTR1400
CBR1100xx
LC4 six days

Some of my past rides
GSXR1000, FZ1, ZX-10, CBR1000F Hurricane
Sabre V65. CB1100F, CB900F, CB750F, CB750K
Kawasaki 750 H2 Triple, RD350 and RZ350
YZ250F, KDX200, Elsinore MT125
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:10 PM   #18
rmhrc628
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H2o you are a legend !!

I owe you a beer. Next time you're in Australia look me up.

Cheers mate really appreciate it.

I'd like to get the special tools as well to properly crimp and remove pins when needed.
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:06 PM   #19
h2oplayer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmhrc628 View Post
H2o you are a legend !!

I owe you a beer. Next time you're in Australia look me up.

Cheers mate really appreciate it.

I'd like to get the special tools as well to properly crimp and remove pins when needed.
I might just take you up on the beer later this year if all goes well.

If you were a little closer I would lend you one of my crimpers. Here is a link for a decent open barrel crimper that will work on a wide range of connectors and wire gauges. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...FQhxQgodpC4AlQ It should be reasonably priced as well.

I do alot of custom harnesses and it gets expensive if you are buying the OEM crimpers, some of my crimpers are $500 plus.
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Don - Gig Harbor, WA
GTR1400
CBR1100xx
LC4 six days

Some of my past rides
GSXR1000, FZ1, ZX-10, CBR1000F Hurricane
Sabre V65. CB1100F, CB900F, CB750F, CB750K
Kawasaki 750 H2 Triple, RD350 and RZ350
YZ250F, KDX200, Elsinore MT125
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:07 PM   #20
rmhrc628
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Can you guys help me out with some Ktm switch specifics.

I have a Baja designs dual hid lapaz headlight to install. They currently have toggle switching on the light frame but I want to move the switching to my eu ktm exc switch block.

The hids are 35 watts each.

Do I need to run a relay to switch these lights on? I plan to have lo beam as the spread light and high beam will be both lights on.

This is the switch I'm using:

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Old 02-27-2013, 03:07 PM   #21
h2oplayer
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Location: Gig Harbor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmhrc628 View Post
Can you guys help me out with some Ktm switch specifics.

I have a Baja designs dual hid lapaz headlight to install. They currently have toggle switching on the light frame but I want to move the switching to my eu ktm exc switch block.

The hids are 35 watts each.

Do I need to run a relay to switch these lights on? I plan to have lo beam as the spread light and high beam will be both lights on.

This is the switch I'm using:

At 35 watts that works out to just under 3 amps each at 12 volts. Running both at once puts you at 6 amps plus any line loss. The switch would most likely handle this as long as the contacts are kept clean; these switches are not well sealed. As soon as you start to get dirt or corrosion going on the resistance of the switch will go up and so will your amperage/draw. A relay would be a safer bet as you would lower the load on the switch and most automotive type relays are better sealed from the elements.
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Don - Gig Harbor, WA
GTR1400
CBR1100xx
LC4 six days

Some of my past rides
GSXR1000, FZ1, ZX-10, CBR1000F Hurricane
Sabre V65. CB1100F, CB900F, CB750F, CB750K
Kawasaki 750 H2 Triple, RD350 and RZ350
YZ250F, KDX200, Elsinore MT125
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Old 02-28-2013, 03:17 AM   #22
rmhrc628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h2oplayer View Post
At 35 watts that works out to just under 3 amps each at 12 volts. Running both at once puts you at 6 amps plus any line loss. The switch would most likely handle this as long as the contacts are kept clean; these switches are not well sealed. As soon as you start to get dirt or corrosion going on the resistance of the switch will go up and so will your amperage/draw. A relay would be a safer bet as you would lower the load on the switch and most automotive type relays are better sealed from the elements.
Legend Thankyou for your response.

Back to eastern beaver.
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