Rebuilding my VW Type One 1600cc motor

svs · 03-01-2013, 10:31 AM

I'm going to rebuild my VW Air cooled Type 1 engine. Currently it has single port heads and is running with a 30-PICT carburetor. The vin on the motor starts with AH so it's dual relief 1972 case and should be a good to use if it all checks out at the machine shop. RIMCO is in my area and they know the VW motor better than about anyone and they are the machine shop I plan on using for parts inspection and I'm leaning towards them assembling the long block when I get the parts sourced and together.

Around $2500 is my budget... Used parts, New parts, keep the heads, use DP heads, single carb, dual carbs, turn key motor.....??

I'm entertaining thoughts and opinions. Not looking for HIGH horsepower, but strong, reliable and semi-good gas mileage. Old motor revved to 4k and I want a more usable power band.. at least rev to 5k with power would be fine.

Swing Axel, stock drum brakes and it's a BAJA BUG... low end torque and gas mileage work great when off road... Pleasure vehicle not a race vehicle.

Parts, thoughts, crass humor... what ya got?

Heyload · 03-01-2013, 10:38 AM

I'm pretty sure something about a "TDI" will surface soon enough...

d mc gee · 03-01-2013, 10:50 AM

Definitely go with DP heads. Theres lots of info out there on which ones are good and which are not. Hell there was a two part artical a couple years ago in Hot VW's that was a good read. Have you talked your plans/needs over with RIMCO? they may have some pretty good ideas.

vtwin · 03-01-2013, 10:54 AM

This is probably a little tail happy though.

bobfab · 03-01-2013, 11:06 AM

Im in, i love an old aircooled!

svs · 03-01-2013, 11:19 AM

The red one is nice... A Factory convertible like mine...Not a CHOP.

I have spoke with RIMCO and they want me to tell them what I want.. So many choices most of which are dictated by budget...as with most things in life.

Most likely use the stock crank and rods, which means 1776, 1835 or 1915.. Will keep the compression low so I can run 87 octane. Had a friend who's an off-roader and fabricator said keep the single ports, 30-PICT and go to 1915cc's with the piston and cylinders...run a 110 long duration cam. Torque monster and real good gas mileage...

Not sure, most everyone else says DP's and that means new carburation..

FPGT72 · 03-01-2013, 11:35 AM

This one is a 1776 and has plenty of power, I am doing a 1300cc bug right now.

I understand the rail is quite a bit lighter, but after the snow melts it is going to get driven to work from time to time....quite often I think.

Chuck Pryce · 03-01-2013, 11:48 AM

The sanba,is a good site for VW info.

vtwin · 03-01-2013, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svs

The red one is nice... A Factory convertible like mine...Not a CHOP.

I have spoke with RIMCO and they want me to tell them what I want.. So many choices most of which are dictated by budget...as with most things in life.

Most likely use the stock crank and rods, which means 1776, 1835 or 1915.. Will keep the compression low so I can run 87 octane. Had a friend who's an off-roader and fabricator said keep the single ports, 30-PICT and go to 1915cc's with the piston and cylinders...run a 110 long duration cam. Torque monster and real good gas mileage...

Not sure, most everyone else says DP's and that means new carburation..

That VW was in Laguna Beach a few years ago, so not too far from you. If on a budget, just a light going over would probably give you the most bang for the buck. I don't know anything about bugs though. Closest I ever came to owning one was when I bought a Corvair.

Try Bugformance.

http://bugformance.reachlocal.com/?s...r_id=182866790

a1fa · 03-01-2013, 12:13 PM

Upgrade to 2.3L Type4, turbo, and never look back..

I use Adiran at Headflow Masters for my Type4 rebuild... He was reasonable.. I wanted bigger valves (42x36), and in hindsight, I should've ordered different cam..

d mc gee · 03-01-2013, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by svs

The red one is nice... A Factory convertible like mine...Not a CHOP.

I have spoke with RIMCO and they want me to tell them what I want.. So many choices most of which are dictated by budget...as with most things in life.

Most likely use the stock crank and rods, which means 1776, 1835 or 1915.. Will keep the compression low so I can run 87 octane. Had a friend who's an off-roader and fabricator said keep the single ports, 30-PICT and go to 1915cc's with the piston and cylinders...run a 110 long duration cam. Torque monster and real good gas mileage...

Not sure, most everyone else says DP's and that means new carburation..

Keeping the SP heads may be best for you. Especially if you can save or re purpose your funds in other areas of the engine. You were happy with them before? You will most likely be happier with them freshened up, and the rest of the motor upgraded.

svs · 03-04-2013, 09:23 AM

Pulled the heads and cylinders off...

Toadady · 03-04-2013, 12:49 PM

at first i thought you were wierd for leaving it bolted up to the trans, then i realised you are using it for a motor stand

Speedo66 · 03-04-2013, 07:03 PM

Always amazed they don't use head gaskets.

Maccoul · 03-05-2013, 02:51 AM

I would look at building a 85.5x76 stroker motor. No need to fly-cut case and heads but you will need to clearance the case. Single port heads will limit your rpm but on a stroker its all about grunt and gas milage. I will be doing this to my manx clone when the time comes.

03-01-2013, 10:31 AM	#1
svs ^OP All Hands on Deck! Joined: Apr 2005 Location: Huntington Beach Oddometer: 20,692	Rebuilding my VW Type One 1600cc motor I'm going to rebuild my VW Air cooled Type 1 engine. Currently it has single port heads and is running with a 30-PICT carburetor. The vin on the motor starts with AH so it's dual relief 1972 case and should be a good to use if it all checks out at the machine shop. RIMCO is in my area and they know the VW motor better than about anyone and they are the machine shop I plan on using for parts inspection and I'm leaning towards them assembling the long block when I get the parts sourced and together. Around $2500 is my budget... Used parts, New parts, keep the heads, use DP heads, single carb, dual carbs, turn key motor.....?? I'm entertaining thoughts and opinions. Not looking for HIGH horsepower, but strong, reliable and semi-good gas mileage. Old motor revved to 4k and I want a more usable power band.. at least rev to 5k with power would be fine. Swing Axel, stock drum brakes and it's a BAJA BUG... low end torque and gas mileage work great when off road... Pleasure vehicle not a race vehicle. Parts, thoughts, crass humor... what ya got? __________________ What is this Green Energy we are looking for? *"Self Replicating Carbon Sequestering Bio-Nano Technology"*................TREES are the Answer!

03-01-2013, 10:38 AM	#2
Heyload Remastered Classic Joined: Dec 2009 Location: San Antonio Oddometer: 4,584	I'm pretty sure something about a "TDI" will surface soon enough... __________________ There. Their. They're not the same. (By reading this, you have briefly given me control of your thoughts) When life gives you melons, you might be dyslexic.

03-01-2013, 10:50 AM	#3
d mc gee Studly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2006 Location: Upper Sandusky, OH Oddometer: 792	Definitely go with DP heads. Theres lots of info out there on which ones are good and which are not. Hell there was a two part artical a couple years ago in Hot VW's that was a good read. Have you talked your plans/needs over with RIMCO? they may have some pretty good ideas. __________________ If it wasn't for my graceful wife, my dumbass would be banned already Doug Mc Gee 01 1150 GS 84 R100RS 74 XL350

03-01-2013, 10:54 AM	#4
vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon Joined: Jan 2005 Location: NorCal Oddometer: 6,112	This is probably a little tail happy though. __________________ I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not so sure. *"You only have too much fuel if you're on fire"* *unknown*

03-01-2013, 11:06 AM	#5
bobfab Studly Adventurer Joined: May 2009 Location: Westminster CO Oddometer: 799	Im in, i love an old aircooled! __________________ Project Labor of Love: 1972 CT90 Rebuild Current Stable: DRZ400 \| VFR800 \| DRZ250 \| CT90 \| CB125 Need an airfilter for your DRZ250!? I have too many, PM ME

03-01-2013, 11:19 AM	#6
svs ^OP All Hands on Deck! Joined: Apr 2005 Location: Huntington Beach Oddometer: 20,692	The red one is nice... A Factory convertible like mine...Not a CHOP. I have spoke with RIMCO and they want me to tell them what I want.. So many choices most of which are dictated by budget...as with most things in life. Most likely use the stock crank and rods, which means 1776, 1835 or 1915.. Will keep the compression low so I can run 87 octane. Had a friend who's an off-roader and fabricator said keep the single ports, 30-PICT and go to 1915cc's with the piston and cylinders...run a 110 long duration cam. Torque monster and real good gas mileage... Not sure, most everyone else says DP's and that means new carburation.. __________________ What is this Green Energy we are looking for? *"Self Replicating Carbon Sequestering Bio-Nano Technology"*................TREES are the Answer!

03-01-2013, 11:35 AM	#7
FPGT72 Beastly Adventurer Joined: Oct 2006 Location: Kingsville MO Oddometer: 3,961	This one is a 1776 and has plenty of power, I am doing a 1300cc bug right now. I understand the rail is quite a bit lighter, but after the snow melts it is going to get driven to work from time to time....quite often I think. __________________ [FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Calling an illegal alien an 'undocumented immigrant' is like calling a drug dealer an 'unlicensed pharmacist[/FONT]

03-01-2013, 11:48 AM	#8
Chuck Pryce Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2006 Location: western n.c. Oddometer: 142	The sanba,is a good site for VW info.

03-01-2013, 12:13 PM	#10
a1fa Riding Nomad™ Joined: Nov 2006 Location: Arkansas Oddometer: 12,717	Upgrade to 2.3L Type4, turbo, and never look back.. I use Adiran at Headflow Masters for my Type4 rebuild... He was reasonable.. I wanted bigger valves (42x36), and in hindsight, I should've ordered different cam.. __________________ Learn to ride. Ride to learn. FS: 1993 Suzuki DR350S (wide ratio 6 speed - street legal kickstart)

03-04-2013, 09:23 AM	#12
svs ^OP All Hands on Deck! Joined: Apr 2005 Location: Huntington Beach Oddometer: 20,692	Pulled the heads and cylinders off... __________________ What is this Green Energy we are looking for? *"Self Replicating Carbon Sequestering Bio-Nano Technology"*................TREES are the Answer!

03-04-2013, 12:49 PM	#13
Toadady Push'n parts Joined: Dec 2003 Location: Southern Missouri Oddometer: 3,175	at first i thought you were wierd for leaving it bolted up to the trans, then i realised you are using it for a motor stand __________________ Get to work, millions on welfare are depending on you

03-04-2013, 07:03 PM	#14
Speedo66 Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jan 2010 Location: Now Fairfield Co, CT Oddometer: 4,594	Always amazed they don't use head gaskets. __________________ '01 Kawasaki W650 '05 Yamaha XT225

03-05-2013, 02:51 AM	#15
Maccoul Bam Bam Joined: Dec 2009 Location: West Mi (Native Sandy Eggan) Oddometer: 76	I would look at building a 85.5x76 stroker motor. No need to fly-cut case and heads but you will need to clearance the case. Single port heads will limit your rpm but on a stroker its all about grunt and gas milage. I will be doing this to my manx clone when the time comes.

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