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Old 03-02-2013, 07:20 PM   #17671
CatfishRacing
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Location: Long Island, NY
Oddometer: 556
Mine were from a guy in the US.
No idea where they were made though.
I had mine off and my bike started and got about 12 miles on the interstate (at about 75mph) before it started to sputter.
What's the point in having an off position?
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:36 PM   #17672
fuelish
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Often, a plastic(composite/teflon/nylon) gear is used because it has damping properties. Smoothing the shock load from a single cylinder piston stroke on to the pump it is spinning . They can even offer increased life over an aluminum or steel gear, because often the softer part will imbed particulate and it will act as an abrasive against the harder material.


Also, SquadraCorse, that bike looks great, love the Martini team colors. Makes me want to Johnny Player Special my black SM.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:27 AM   #17673
Okipouros
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Its plastic cause is cheaper

I havent seen an oil pump total failure, some reduced pressure because of wear yes, have you seen one?
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:41 AM   #17674
LSGiant
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Location: The Valley of the Jolly Green Giant
Oddometer: 1,037
Quote:
Originally Posted by Okipouros View Post
Its plastic cause is cheaper
Glad to know you work at Suzuki, are you in Engineering or Purchasing?
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:28 AM   #17675
buls4evr
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Michissippi & Nuevo Mexico
Oddometer: 2,318
Quote:
Originally Posted by CatfishRacing View Post
Mine were from a guy in the US.
No idea where they were made though.
I had mine off and my bike started and got about 12 miles on the interstate (at about 75mph) before it started to sputter.
What's the point in having an off position?
What is wrong with you guys? I gave you the Genuine Yamaha part # and price already..... They are $26.99, work for years, don't leak, fit right on and have a built in tank filter. Some aversion to going to your local Yamaha dealer? Why would you try to buy one cheaper than $26.99 online?
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:44 AM   #17676
CatfishRacing
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Oddometer: 556
The eBay parts I bought weren't any cheaper.
I don't remember why I went eBay over Yamaha.
I think the eBay part could get to me faster but I'm not sure.
I just want everybody to learn from my mistake and stay away from the eBay junk.

Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
What is wrong with you guys? I gave you the Genuine Yamaha part # and price already..... They are $26.99, work for years, don't leak, fit right on and have a built in tank filter. Some aversion to going to your local Yamaha dealer? Why would you try to buy one cheaper than $26.99 online?
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:56 AM   #17677
dasvis
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Oregon
Oddometer: 535
Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
What is wrong with you guys? I gave you the Genuine Yamaha part # and price already..... They are $26.99, work for years, don't leak, fit right on and have a built in tank filter. Some aversion to going to your local Yamaha dealer? Why would you try to buy one cheaper than $26.99 online?
+1, here's a past post I made with a photo of the Yamaha petcock. Cheap & looks factory stock.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=15629

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Old 03-03-2013, 08:53 AM   #17678
150ron
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Joined: May 2012
Location: Valencia, ca
Oddometer: 1,190
I recently installed one of those cheap ebay raptor petcock's on my bike, and it has been fine,

only reason i got it is cause i had this problem with my other more expensive ON/OFF/RESERVE petcock, this one would hit the tank, the raptor one hangs down further, clearing the tank.

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Old 03-03-2013, 09:06 AM   #17679
Xylx
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Idaho
Oddometer: 84
Raptor World (Japanese edition)

Quote:
Originally Posted by buls4evr View Post
What is wrong with you guys? I gave you the Genuine Yamaha part # and price already..... They are $26.99, work for years, don't leak, fit right on and have a built in tank filter. Some aversion to going to your local Yamaha dealer? Why would you try to buy one cheaper than $26.99 online?
Good point. Except I did not go online with the intent of saving money. I mistakenly (naively) assumed that any "Raptor" was a genuine Raptor Yamaha part. I have no problem with the Yamaha dealer except that it would take an hour and a half of my time to drive through the traffic and back. I was saving myself time (which is more precious than money at my age) and aggravation (I get enough of that at work). Hopefully this discussion will help others to follow your advice and make sure they get a genuine Raptor.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:45 AM   #17680
motolab
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Joined: Feb 2006
Oddometer: 2,220
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xylx View Post
Good point. Except I did not go online with the intent of saving money. I mistakenly (naively) assumed that any "Raptor" was a genuine Raptor Yamaha part. I have no problem with the Yamaha dealer except that it would take an hour and a half of my time to drive through the traffic and back. I was saving myself time (which is more precious than money at my age) and aggravation (I get enough of that at work). Hopefully this discussion will help others to follow your advice and make sure they get a genuine Raptor.
See the last line item at www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:44 PM   #17681
effensteve
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: The far east (of Oregon)
Oddometer: 589
I used the wr400 petcock on my clark tank. Works great no problems what so ever.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:11 PM   #17682
Mudclod
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Killeen, TX.
Oddometer: 1,450
Got my "Raptor" petcock from Bike Bandit. Genuine OEM part in OEM box, works great. I always turn petcock off with the wonderful ethanol we get to burn now!
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:25 PM   #17683
mars
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Joined: Jun 2002
Location: El Reno,ok
Oddometer: 1,896
grinding off the edges on the shifter today and decided if there ever was a bolt that needed safety wiring this was it.
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:01 AM   #17684
SquadraCorse
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: San Jose, Cali
Oddometer: 133
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuelish View Post
Often, a plastic(composite/teflon/nylon) gear is used because it has damping properties. Smoothing the shock load from a single cylinder piston stroke on to the pump it is spinning . They can even offer increased life over an aluminum or steel gear, because often the softer part will imbed particulate and it will act as an abrasive against the harder material.


Also, SquadraCorse, that bike looks great, love the Martini team colors. Makes me want to Johnny Player Special my black SM.
I saw something similar on a black SM at some point. They had the gold boarders around the side panels and fenders, but no JPS anywhere, so who knows if that's what they had based it off of. Looked great though. I think the big JPS logo on the radiator shrouds with the gold trim around the body panels would be clean and classy. If you had some gold anodized hubs or rims it would really set it off.


Thanks for all the compliments everyone, much appreciated.
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:47 AM   #17685
bkwags
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Oddometer: 74
Seals and Shocks

Bought a 2001 DRZ last fall and have it stripped down for inspection and some minor repairs.

I replaced the front wheel bearings and one seal. Was wondering if there should be two seals. The kit came with two, but there was only one on the bike when I tore it down. Does the speedo pick up casing act as the second seal? Can I pack it with grease or ????

Also, the rear suspension seems a bit soft. I weigh about 210 in street clothes. The spanner nuts seem to be about 1/2 way down the threads. Since I am not familiar with these shocks and I get timid around compressed nitrogen I was wondering how they work. I see there are different screws and settings, a Schrader valve and other assorted nick nacks. Tried to search the thread, but did not come up with anything of relevance, probably used the wrong key words. What is the proper way to check and adjust the rear suspension?

Any advice on either of these subjects would be appreciated.

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