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Old 02-24-2013, 08:40 PM   #31
nnamssorxela OP
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Thanks again for all the input guys! I'm becoming less skeptical of the dry and wax style lubes due to how highly you all regard them, and I might give them a try if my auto oiler doesn't work.

Something to note however; I was reading around about the Dupont stuff, and they said that using it on a motorcycle chain will require application every 50-75 miles. Because of this, I think I'm leaning towards an auto oiler of sorts as that is a continuous application and I won't have to remember to do it. I refuse to support my local motorcycle shop and would much prefer to get something I could use from my local hardware store so it's good to know there are alternatives.

-Alex
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:04 PM   #32
CycleDoc59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nnamssorxela View Post
Thanks again for all the input guys! I'm becoming less skeptical of the dry and wax style lubes due to how highly you all regard them, and I might give them a try if my auto oiler doesn't work.

Something to note however; I was reading around about the Dupont stuff, and they said that using it on a motorcycle chain will require application every 50-75 miles. Because of this, I think I'm leaning towards an auto oiler of sorts as that is a continuous application and I won't have to remember to do it. I refuse to support my local motorcycle shop and would much prefer to get something I could use from my local hardware store so it's good to know there are alternatives.

-Alex
You can buy chain lube under the Liquid Wrench name at
Walmart and hardware stores, or even Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-.../dp/B004HSDAI0
Use every 500 miles or so is usually
adequate. Auto oilers make a mess.
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:35 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CycleDoc59 View Post
You can buy chain lube under the Liquid Wrench name at
Walmart and hardware stores, or even Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-.../dp/B004HSDAI0
Use every 500 miles or so is usually
adequate. Auto oilers make a mess.
Not all oilers make a mess.

Start with one of these, and make a semi-automatic oiler.
The link below is just a generic for the picture. eBay and search for "fuel primer".

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ryobi-tal...item35c40c8baa

Couple of hints if you do that. Tygon tubing is the clear winner for 'tough', you need some sort of resevour near the bottom so the thing will drip rather than dump large splurges of oil when you push the button, and you may need an air bleed in the 'out' line, to prevent flexing tubing acting as a pump.

Otherwise, some easy fabrication and about $20 and you have a near perfect chain oiler, and one which will get around 10,000k's/100ml of oil capacity.

Pete
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:20 AM   #34
nnamssorxela OP
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Thanks for the tip. Originally I was going to use a big syringe mounted to my bars with a tube running down to my sprocket, but I think I'm going to put a vacuum operated check valve/switch between an oil reservoir and sprockets with a petcock of sorts to control flow. That way the system only opens up while the bike is running. Basically a cheap scottoiler.
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:48 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nnamssorxela View Post
Thanks again for all the input guys! I'm becoming less skeptical of the dry and wax style lubes due to how highly you all regard them, and I might give them a try if my auto oiler doesn't work.

Something to note however; I was reading around about the Dupont stuff, and they said that using it on a motorcycle chain will require application every 50-75 miles. Because of this, I think I'm leaning towards an auto oiler of sorts as that is a continuous application and I won't have to remember to do it. I refuse to support my local motorcycle shop and would much prefer to get something I could use from my local hardware store so it's good to know there are alternatives.

-Alex

Moderen, Quality o-ring chain needs very little lube, DuPont stuff every 300 to 500 miles is more than enough.

Auto oiler is over kill making a mess and adding to the grit/dirt problem which can easily do more harm than good.
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:20 AM   #36
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I thought the whole deal with the auto oiler is that the constant supply of oil flushes the dirt and grime off? I suppose I will find out.

I was looking into it a little more, and bar and chain oil has additives that keep it "more" on the chain compared to motor oil, and is designed to prevent absorb shock. I have yet to look into the advantages of using automatic transmission fluid that everyone seems to be filling up their oilers with.

The good news is that I just got the last of my parts to make a vacuum operated oiler yesterday, and I think I will attempt to install it today. It's a little bit ghetto, but it will be hidden and hopefully do the trick. I'll throw up some pictures if there's any interest. It cost me about ~$16 and I have plenty of spares and leftovers for other projects or adjusting this one.

On a side note. I re-oiled my chain yesterday. There was still an oil film on it from the first oiling 6 days before, and I've ridden in the rain a couple of times too. I was delighted to see that the chain was pretty darn clean! I know it's only been a week, but my PJ1 would already have built up a thick coating of grime all over the chain. I've been using fresh 10w-40 and in the colder weather, it's pretty tacky. Can't wait to try out some different oils and see how this thing works.

-Alex
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:17 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laconic View Post
You're right. I just went and looked at my stock; some of it is the old and some of it is the new but the labels appear the same at a glance.

I noticed the "new-old" formulation in the orange bottles is $1 more than it used to be.
The original version of the Dupont lube everyone loved had Jeff Gordon's Nascar #24 in the top left of the label. The new recipe lube doesn't feature Gordons number.

Dirty
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:25 PM   #38
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So a little update. I installed the oiler and was quite pleased with the fit and how everything went together and works...for the most part.

The issue I have is when I turn the bike off, oil drips out all over my sprocket like crazy. I'm not sure if this is due to bubbles in the line/fuel tap from the initial installation, but I think it is due to the diaphragm and spring in the vacuum fuel tap I used to stop the flow when the motor is off. I'm thinking that when the vacuum stops, the spring pushes the diaphragm closed, forcing the oil in the tap out along the path of least resistance which happens to be down onto my chain.

I'm wondering if I increase the vent size on my reservoir, and place the tap closer to the reservoir, I can turn the path of least resistance to the reservoir instead of the chain. Suggestions?

That said. My chain is still clean and the bike feels super smooth, quiet, and easy to shift smoothly, but I'm sure that's all psychological.

-Alex
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:25 PM   #39
Stan_R80/7
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What kind of valve did you find that opens when a vacuum is applied? There are electrical solenoid valves that can be used to make a 'electrical oiler' in contrast to the electronic version but otherwise operate just like a Scott oiler. Unless the reservoir is not vented, the fluid should go into the reservoir instead of the line. One thing you can try is to reverse the direction of the valve and see if that makes a difference. Good luck!
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:49 PM   #40
nnamssorxela OP
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I used a vacuum operated fuel tap like this one, but with only 3 ports:


I went to the shop and played around with another one that wasn't soaked in oil and it does not matter what direction it flows. The reason I say it will go to the chain and not the reservoir is because the chain is down hill and has two outputs, where as the vent in the reservoir is just a pinhole in the cap and in order to flow back to the reservoir, gravity has to be overcome as well.

I got a little carried away with the adjustment of flow and I was practically pouring out oil, so I'll have to adjust the flow a bit with my inline ball valve and see if that helps. I'm wondering if somehow the nipple on my throttle body I tapped into to get the vacuum is holding vacuum for a little bit after the motor is shut down?

Still less messy than pj1!
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:26 AM   #41
nnamssorxela OP
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I figured I'd update this thread. I took the homemade oiler off to change some things, and I ended up buying a used scottoiler off of ebay. The thing is great, and my chain looks incredibly happy and clean.

One thing I noticed is that the ATF and bar and chain oil I've used in the scott oiler so far are way less viscous than the motor oil I was using in my homemade oiler.

Since my homemade oiler worked flawless with water and only had issues with the thick oil, I might rig it back up onto my other bike with the thinner ATF or bar and chain oil to see if it doesn't work better that way. and can update this thread if anyone is interested.


-Alex
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:48 AM   #42
FiveG
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Cleaning & Lubing During a Trip

I just switched from a shaft to chain bike, so I'm hoping for a little guidance. For those of you who ride chain-drive bikes on 3+ day trips, do you typically clean your chain during the trip? Or just periodically lube and wait until you get home to clean?

I use one of the waxes, and those have some handy smaller size containers I could pack with me. BUT, unless there is a need to clean on the road, I'd prefer not to add the cleaning part (other than maybe wiping off road grime before I lube).

If you do clean on the road, any suggestions for portable cleaners to bring along?

Thanks, in advance.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:01 PM   #43
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I ride a dualsport, and clean my chain a few times a year, tops.

So thats a solid no for me, just lube it up.
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Old 05-28-2013, 01:39 PM   #44
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^That -- unless the chain is caked with sand or grit, I lube it an go.

The horrors of drive chain maitnenace have been blown up by those who really need to think that one form of final drive is better than another . . . . .
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:26 AM   #45
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Thanks. I kinda figured I was being OCD on this.
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