2001 Gas Gas 321 TXT Clutch Issues

[lineaway]

The pressure plate is what needs to be marked to location, it only goes on one way. Mark it to the clutch housing. If you already removed it, no worries you`ll have 5 more tries!
PS do not locktight clutch spring bolts.

[dbeck]

Check this page out. Some great stuff on this site. Everything you need.

http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html

[wb22rules]

Thanks for the tip lineaway, I will remember that when I get the pieces to do the job. Right now there is a Subaru, a Ford truck and a Suburban in line in front the bike atm lol.

[wb22rules]

Originally Posted by dbeck

Check this page out. Some great stuff on this site. Everything you need.

http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html

Thanks

I have that in the favorites, lots of good stuff I have referenced in thye last year, but no service or owners manual for the 2001 TXT's unfortunately.

[wb22rules]

I am going to remove/inspect the clutch today and see if indeed my steel plates are warped or if I have a fiber plate similar the one posted in "what did you do to your trials bike today" thread .

Anyway before I will be able to button her back up I need to know the proper torque specs for the head, and the side cases on the motor if any one has that info. I have seen Jim Snells videos, and searched the gas gas/trialspartsusa tech site but have not found a service manual or a place to reference for torque specs on this bike yet.

[wb22rules]

My fiber plates look just like ADVCoop's that he posted, only two of them still had the fiber material still attached to the plate, the rest all had separated similar to his his, and a two inch section of fiber from the outer most plate was missing

[wb22rules]

Originally Posted by lineaway

The pressure plate is what needs to be marked to location, it only goes on one way. Mark it to the clutch housing. If you already removed it, no worries you`ll have 5 more tries!
PS do not locktight clutch spring bolts.

The pressure plate had a raised line on the outside perimeter that alligned with the bolt hole on the housing with the little depression on each side of it, so it appears there are markings to insure I get it back in the same position.

The throwout bearing or whatever you call it on these things looks to be in fine shape, should it get replaced or can it can be left alone? Seeing I am super broke I am hoping the steel plates check out to be perfectly flat and I only need to get replacement fiber plates. The more I have to get will only delay me getting it back running, and I would like to be riding it sooner rather than later if you know what I mean

[ADVCoop]

Sorry to read. Check the Tryals Shop for a clutch. At least for mine a new complete clutch is only $139 from there. I've heard stories of $300 clutches so I was worried.

[wb22rules]

Here is a picture of the raised line I was referring to on the pressure plate. It is above the top bolt hole in the pic.




And the hole that matches up with that one has two small depressions on it whereas the others do not as you can see below.




And the fiber plate I thought had two inches missing did not have anything missing, it had just had two pieces slide under the adjacent piece making it twice as thick on a part of it, hence the excessive dragging.. I have a picture from the side of that plate below.



Notice the two areas where there is a step so to speak.

[wb22rules]

Originally Posted by ADVCoop

Sorry to read. Check the Tryals Shop for a clutch. At least for mine a new complete clutch is only $139 from there. I've heard stories of $300 clutches so I was worried.

That would be awesome if I could get the replacement plates for $139.00. I am making a list using my parts book and I am going to call the the guy at the trials shop tomorrow to see what the prices are for the things I need.

[wb22rules]

The clutch pack for mine is also $139.00, so that was good news.

Fork seals are 20 for a pair.

The wrung off bleed screw on the clutch slave is a non issue as Mike advised me just to bleed it with the cover off as the bubbles will all rise to the reservoir anyway.

Hope to get the seals and clutch ordered this week, now just to find out torque specs on the clutch springs and head.

[wb22rules]

Found the video with the torque spec for the head.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyTAnumRTWY

9 ft/lbs for my bike btw

[wb22rules]

Found the video for the clutch work which describes a lot of things, except the torque specs to use when reasembling the clutch basket or the clutch cover

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KewmgY8S2c


Apparently synthetic oils are known to cause the issue ADVCoop and I had with the fiber material seperating from the disk, so I will make a point to grab some non synthetic 5w/30 next time I am in town.

[ADVCoop]

Originally Posted by wb22rules

Apparently synthetic oils are known to cause the issue ADVCoop and I had with the fiber material seperating from the disk, so I will make a point to grab some non synthetic 5w/30 next time I am in town.

I saw that video and put 5w-30 in it right away when I got the bike. I changed it a couple times thinking maybe the last owner used synthetic and that's what caused the drag. When that made no difference, I checked the plates. I'm glad I did. My clutch should be here tomorrow.

[lineaway]

The spring bolts are just barely tightened past snug. The spring tension will hold them in place. Many people overtighten just to have to buy a new clutch basket. Same with the outside cover.
PS. GasGas USA recomended mobile one for years. So I would not sweat the oil too much.