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Old 03-06-2013, 10:52 AM   #33601
skierd
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I've run my heated grips off of the headlight circuit (a 15A fuse) for years, never had an issue with my lights or grips. Same way BigDog does his.
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:55 PM   #33602
alansz400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfy50 View Post
He was probably looking to connect to a switched line. The brown line runs to your #55(in fuse panel) 10amp fused power line. It also connects to the starter relay,license plate light,front and rear brake switches, horn. How much power does your heated grip pull?
IMHO heated items should go thru a relay and switch of their own and not pull load off of any primary circuits for safety. At the very least take the power port off the same line as the heated grips which should have their own 5amp line.
ps. some useful info on the Hot grips faq pg.
http://www.hotgrips.com/faq.php#14
Thanks. I rewired it today with a fused wire to the battery. I was going to use a relay but didnt have one. Still upsets me that the dealer would cut into my factory wiring. I guess thats why I dont take my bike to the dealer unless some one else is paying the bill.
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:22 PM   #33603
pfy50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
I've run my heated grips off of the headlight circuit (a 15A fuse) for years, never had an issue with my lights or grips. Same way BigDog does his.
Skierd,

What ever works, it's just a little safer on a lighter loaded circuit as long as the wiring is the same guage.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:05 PM   #33604
Attico
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I ran mine on an old honda on the running light circuit.

They don't pull much usually
Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
I've run my heated grips off of the headlight circuit (a 15A fuse) for years, never had an issue with my lights or grips. Same way BigDog does his.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:13 PM   #33605
TexaNate
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WR250R flashing check engine light?

Hey all,

First of all, great thread, I'm learning a lot. I've tried searching for this issue but I haven't been able to find the answer, so here goes...

I bought my '08 WR250R used at 5,000 miles with the EXUP valve removed, airbox mod done and the complete FMF system (header, tailpipe and power programmer). The check engine light was on (continuously) but this didn't worry me since that's what happens when you do those engine mods.

However, last I rode the light started flashing at a rate of roughly one second per flash. Then it went off entirely. Then it came back on again and went back to flashing.

It happens in all kinds of situations, on-road and off, at all rev ranges, speeds and throttle levels. I don't know if the fuel pump was replaced but it works fine after nearly 5 years and 5,000 miles (I try not to run it low on gas). Everything else seems to work as it should. The computer throws no error codes, the engine gives plenty of power and the bike is a blast. I've changed the chain recently and after parsing all the competing scholarly sources on setting the slack, I think I have it set OK. Last oil change was 600 miles ago and I clean/swap the air filter every 3-400 miles (more if dirty/dusty). What does a flashing check engine light mean? Should I worry?

Thanks for any wisdom you might offer!
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:39 AM   #33606
viper770
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oh thats a easy fix just find some klx or a drz400 and sacrifice it to the WR god and all will be forgiven and check engine light should go away
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:50 AM   #33607
shep546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexaNate View Post
Hey all,

First of all, great thread, I'm learning a lot. I've tried searching for this issue but I haven't been able to find the answer, so here goes...

I bought my '08 WR250R used at 5,000 miles with the EXUP valve removed, airbox mod done and the complete FMF system (header, tailpipe and power programmer). The check engine light was on (continuously) but this didn't worry me since that's what happens when you do those engine mods.

However, last I rode the light started flashing at a rate of roughly one second per flash. Then it went off entirely. Then it came back on again and went back to flashing.

It happens in all kinds of situations, on-road and off, at all rev ranges, speeds and throttle levels. I don't know if the fuel pump was replaced but it works fine after nearly 5 years and 5,000 miles (I try not to run it low on gas). Everything else seems to work as it should. The computer throws no error codes, the engine gives plenty of power and the bike is a blast. I've changed the chain recently and after parsing all the competing scholarly sources on setting the slack, I think I have it set OK. Last oil change was 600 miles ago and I clean/swap the air filter every 3-400 miles (more if dirty/dusty). What does a flashing check engine light mean? Should I worry?

Thanks for any wisdom you might offer!

Get the code checked?
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Old 03-07-2013, 04:20 AM   #33608
DragonNester
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No error code...hmmmm? Anyway I hope this is of some help.

Here's a fault code list:

http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t4621-fault-codes

If it's an error code 17/18 there are a couple of easy fixes. One for around $10 (home made) and one from Graves:

http://www.gravesport.com/Graves-Mot...liminator.html

I went with the rather expensive Graves fix.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:24 AM   #33609
ggemelos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attico View Post
I ran mine on an old honda on the running light circuit.

They don't pull much usually
I am in the process of installing Hot Grips heated grips on my bike. I am wiring it to a relay triggered by the license plate light. The resistance of each grip is about 10.5Ohm. They are wired in parallel which means they will nominally each pull about 1.15A, 2.3A total. That is not a huge amount, but enough that I would not want to tied in to an existing circuit.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:33 AM   #33610
TwilightZone
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>"I bought my '08 WR250R used at 5,000 miles with the EXUP valve removed...check engine light..."

Sound like you didn't do the resistor jump in the EXUP controller end ($1 from Radio Shack)
or buy the pre-made jumper end ($45 12 O'clock Labs).
I believe there should be some info on WRRDualsport.com. Post back if you don't find it.

BTW: I did the resistor jump, worked fine, no error code.
Then I did the pre-made jumper which has a bit more electronics in it.
I "felt" that the jumper made a bit of difference... but heck... dunno.
Would be nice to perform that test on a dyno.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:53 AM   #33611
oldtrucks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexaNate View Post
However, last I rode the light started flashing at a rate of roughly one second per flash. Then it went off entirely. Then it came back on again and went back to flashing.
The flashing light may not be related to the EXUP removal. If you have the EXUP or access to one you can plug it back in and see if that clears the light. As mentioned there are several means to trick the system and turn off the light. 12 O'clock labs and Graves offer plug in modules that will defeat the light. Others have used diodes at a fraction of the cost.

Without ruling out the EXUP first you're really guessing what the problem is
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:04 AM   #33612
pfy50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggemelos View Post
I am in the process of installing Hot Grips heated grips on my bike. I am wiring it to a relay triggered by the license plate light. The resistance of each grip is about 10.5Ohm. They are wired in parallel which means they will nominally each pull about 1.15A, 2.3A total. That is not a huge amount, but enough that I would not want to tied in to an existing circuit.
A rule of thumb in safety and electrical wiring. Half the Load or double the guage. Another words put only 1/2 the max load on the guage wire you have or use a guage wire that is double the max load you will put on that circuit(see link to chart) When you tie into an existing circuit compute your max load(total=existing load + what your adding) then as long as the amperage is 1/2 or less max load for the guage wire it is on your safe. If not use a separate circuit or replace the existing circuit with bigger guage wire. Here is a good chart to follow in figuring out what load a particular circuit can handle: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
ps. the taillight circuit is a 10amp line usually 16 or 18 guage wire so good to go with other loads noted in post #33602
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:06 AM   #33613
TexaNate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtrucks View Post
The flashing light may not be related to the EXUP removal. If you have the EXUP or access to one you can plug it back in and see if that clears the light. As mentioned there are several means to trick the system and turn off the light. 12 O'clock labs and Graves offer plug in modules that will defeat the light. Others have used diodes at a fraction of the cost.

Without ruling out the EXUP first you're really guessing what the problem is
According to the fault codes sheet, The only reason the light flashes (rather than just "illuminating" continuously) is as a no-start indicator for 12, 19, 30, 41 or 50 - and the bike wouldn't start if one of those were the problem.

I'll wire up an EXUP plug in module and I'll let you guys know if anything interesting happens.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:20 PM   #33614
Recon_Buck
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I love my WR250R

Hey Inmates, I just stumbled across this thread, and I have many questions about the bike and some add-ons. I recently returned from the sandblast rally down in Cheraw, SC. Awesome Rally, and there's much about it on this website. I was the only WR250R out of the 48 bikes, and I came in second in the Light Class.

Does anyone else race their WR250R here on the east coast? I'm looking for some other opporutnities to get involved.

Here's a picture from the Sandblast. Great times!

2013sndblstrally0214copy_zps824bfebc by louisianazouaves, on Flickr

Semper Fidelis, Buck
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:36 PM   #33615
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...very capable!
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