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Old 03-12-2013, 05:52 PM   #15031
mustangwagz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireDog45 View Post
Recently picked up a '99 and have been slowly going through it. Rebuilt the carb and suspension with some help from Jesse, added new bars, bark busters, grips and rear rack. Scored an Acerbis tank and got that all plumbed in. Also spent some time going over all the nuts, bolts and fluids.

During the test ride I found everything worked very well; she pulled hard all the way to redline, the brakes were better than I expected and the suspension felt pretty damn good. The only issue was the severely out of balance wheels. I R&R'd the front tire then static balanced it (took almost 3 oz!)- better but above 60 mph it was not pleasant.

The question for y'all is this: do you run without the rim lock, try to balance it out or just run it and not worry about the out of balance issue?

I will be using this for on pavement as well as some trail riding but my style is more "motoring along quietly" rather than jumping and roosting.

Are the rim locks even necessary for someone like me?

Thanks!
By sounds of it, i do more offroad than you do...and i dont run em at all! THEY SUCK when it comes to balancing! Just break them down, tear em out, and be on your happy, unvibrating way! lol Trust me! hahaha
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:06 PM   #15032
Stretch67
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Rim locks aren't needed when you run normal tire pressures. However, 100% of my riding is off-road, with a large portion of that being low-speed single track with ruts, rocks, and roots, so I air down to about 10 psi allowing the tires to spread out and grab the terrain. Rim locks are a necessity in this case, preventing the tire from slipping on the rim when I nail the throttle. Without them the valve stem would be torn out of the tube.
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:19 PM   #15033
2bold2getold
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Rim Locks

I don't use em on this bike, but my style is VERY relaxed. If you have newish tires ( soft/sticky) and run around 20psi you should be good. Don't tighten down the stem nut so you can tell if it slips any.
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:33 PM   #15034
Greaslife
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Hi I'm Josh I'm a NOBE with a 2013 DR 650 . I have been lurking for a while and thought I would say what's up. Just rode 68 miles today to and from work in riverside my ass isn't happy nore is my back.O yah my right had goes numb after about 20-25 miles
Whats the first thing you would do or fix these.
I'm 6.4 and 300lbs.
I'm planing on going full expo/desert . Just too get an idea. Any feed back would be grate.

I know this has probably all ready been talked about. But My A.D.D kicks in real quick when searching for answers.
Thanks too all for the help


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Old 03-12-2013, 06:44 PM   #15035
markk900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
That is it. Jsut grab the knob and start unscrewing. I will look into it tonight
Not the knob - the base....
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:48 PM   #15036
MadChap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greaslife View Post
Hi I'm Josh I'm a NOBE with a 2013 DR 650 . I have been lurking for a while and thought I would say what's up. Just rode 68 miles today to and from work in riverside my ass isn't happy nore is my back.O yah my right had goes numb after about 20-25 miles
Whats the first thing you would do or fix these.
I'm 6.4 and 300lbs.
I'm planing on going full expo/desert . Just too get an idea. Any feed back would be grate.

I know this has probably all ready been talked about. But My A.D.D kicks in real quick when searching for answers.
Thanks too all for the help


Thinks for looking from
J&S Garage-works
Wildomar Ca.

Hi noob.......this is the DR350 thread. While you may find lots of opinions here, you're probably better served going over to the DR650 thread....?
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:23 PM   #15037
Greaslife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadChap View Post
Hi noob.......this is the DR350 thread. While you may find lots of opinions here, you're probably better served going over to the DR650 thread....?
My bad sorry for the interruption


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Old 03-12-2013, 08:20 PM   #15038
FireDog45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangwagz View Post
By sounds of it, i do more offroad than you do...and i dont run em at all! THEY SUCK when it comes to balancing! Just break them down, tear em out, and be on your happy, unvibrating way! lol Trust me! hahaha
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch67 View Post
Rim locks aren't needed when you run normal tire pressures. However, 100% of my riding is off-road, with a large portion of that being low-speed single track with ruts, rocks, and roots, so I air down to about 10 psi allowing the tires to spread out and grab the terrain. Rim locks are a necessity in this case, preventing the tire from slipping on the rim when I nail the throttle. Without them the valve stem would be torn out of the tube.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
I don't use em on this bike, but my style is VERY relaxed. If you have newish tires ( soft/sticky) and run around 20psi you should be good. Don't tighten down the stem nut so you can tell if it slips any.
I kinda figured my riding style wouldn't require them and it seems you all agree. I'm going to be installing new 244's and figured I'd just remove them then. If it looks like my riding may need them back in I'll re-install 'em and figure something out.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:49 AM   #15039
Greg Bender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireDog45 View Post
I kinda figured my riding style wouldn't require them and it seems you all agree. I'm going to be installing new 244's and figured I'd just remove them then. If it looks like my riding may need them back in I'll re-install 'em and figure something out.

Thanks for the help!
Rim locks are a pain to balance and add difficulty when changing tubes/tires. All the same, I run them because I don't really envy the alternative.

I ride a lot of rocky terrain out here in Arizona. I typically keep my tires at about 14/18 front/rear. But, I do air down to maybe 12/14 front/rear on occasion. I do not know if these pressures pose any danger or not?

I got tired of fitting so many weights on the rim to balance out the rim lock. So, I fit two rim locks in each wheel. I certainly do not need the extra gripping power. Instead, one really serves as an internal balance weight. I still use weights externally, just not nearly so many. With the wheels balanced, I can run 70 MPH with no wheel vibration at all.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:22 AM   #15040
cwc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post

SO what I have is a DR350 chassis with a 250 motor in it that I am trying to fire up. The PO said he could not get it running but didn't give any details. I figured out some electrical issues. The neutral swtich does not work. The Side stand safety switched is also damaged. Put the two together and no spark. Well there is one spark but not any more after the first. Bypassed the side stand safety and now I have spark. The wiring harness is all chopped up so it is hard to figure out what is what.

-Question: There are two wires hanging off the back near the battery (yellow circle). What are these for?? Look like they would go to the starter solinode (sp?). But this bike being a kicker doesn't have one fo those. The other two wires I know are for the battery.
-The neutral switch is a single wire connection. What is the other unused white connector in the white circle. It is a two wire jobbie.

I don't have a 1990, but per the wiring diagram it looks like the these could be for the sidestand switch. It looks like they are green and Black/white.

If the other connector has Brown and Black/white wires it could be for the license plate light.

The wiring diagram in the factory service manual is pretty good in that it shows wire colors and number of pins/connector as well as (sort of) the relative position of connectors.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:57 AM   #15041
a1fa
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I rode the 91 DR350S (kick only) to work this morning... makes me wonder why did Suzuki ever have to mess with something that is so well rounded. the drz400 was a failure when compared to dr350s.... the engine, the transmission... this thing is just perfect in every way. instead of shaving pounds, and maybe going to fuel injection, they discontinued one of their better products... shame on you Suzuki.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:14 AM   #15042
MrPulldown
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Location: Truckee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Not the knob - the base....
Dude I am such a noob. Some times the most apparent things are not unless some one points them out to you.
Thanks

The only indenticating number I can find on the carb is on the butterfly. Somedouble square symbol and a "115". Maybe there is something else under the grime but I don't think so.


Still not exactly sure what this screw does. It seems like it is a drain. But rather than draining from the bottom of the bowl, it drains from the top of a tube (towards the top of the bowl) to that little nub. Maybe it is open and is an overflow.


Should read this thread if you want a step by step on these carbs. BST's or CV carbs all seem to be built the same.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:17 AM   #15043
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwc View Post
I don't have a 1990, but per the wiring diagram it looks like the these could be for the sidestand switch. It looks like they are green and Black/white.

If the other connector has Brown and Black/white wires it could be for the license plate light.

The wiring diagram in the factory service manual is pretty good in that it shows wire colors and number of pins/connector as well as (sort of) the relative position of connectors.

Thanks. I have a hard time with the wiring diamgram when trying to trace unknown connectors. I can read them ok, but the layout does not correlate to the actual loctions on the bike. Being color blind and having faded wires does not help.

I think you might be right on the licnese plate light as the bike is missing its. So far it does not seem like it is needed.

That extra plug might be there on my running DR350SE. I remember seeing it and wondering. Might just be an extra plug. It is not the side stand safety as that connector is green and on the other side of the bike. I have already clipped it.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:55 AM   #15044
brianjonesphoto
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Location: The Brier Patch, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Bender View Post
Rim locks are a pain to balance and add difficulty when changing tubes/tires. All the same, I run them because I don't really envy the alternative.

I ride a lot of rocky terrain out here in Arizona. I typically keep my tires at about 14/18 front/rear. But, I do air down to maybe 12/14 front/rear on occasion. I do not know if these pressures pose any danger or not?

I got tired of fitting so many weights on the rim to balance out the rim lock. So, I fit two rim locks in each wheel. I certainly do not need the extra gripping power. Instead, one really serves as an internal balance weight. I still use weights externally, just not nearly so many. With the wheels balanced, I can run 70 MPH with no wheel vibration at all.

Regards,

Gregory Bender
My approach was a light weight rim lock. I weighed it prior to installing I bought some lead wire fishing weight and wrapped and equal mass of lead in the 2 spokes opposite the rim lock. No balance issues in 2 years.


Typos and nonsensical words courtesy of fat fingers on a make believe keyboard.
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:10 AM   #15045
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Dude I am such a noob. Some times the most apparent things are not unless some one points them out to you.
Thanks

The only indenticating number I can find on the carb is on the butterfly. Somedouble square symbol and a "115". Maybe there is something else under the grime but I don't think so.
If you're looking for how to remove the choke/enrichment knob, there is a brass nut underneath the rubber boot (lower left of your photo above). Your carb is the stock CV carb for street-going versions of the DR350 BTW.

Quote:
Still not exactly sure what this screw does. It seems like it is a drain. But rather than draining from the bottom of the bowl, it drains from the top of a tube (towards the top of the bowl) to that little nub. Maybe it is open and is an overflow.


Should read this thread if you want a step by step on these carbs. BST's or CV carbs all seem to be built the same.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184
That screw is indeed the drain screw and it defintely drains from the bottom of the float bowl. The brass tube is indeed an overflow and does not go via the screw but drains straight out.
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