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Old 03-18-2013, 07:43 PM   #15091
MrPulldown
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Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
No issue I can think of on the first question.....

On the second question, from the clymer manual both DR250 and 350 Dual sport with CV carbs are BST33 (so maybe you did get the stock 250 carb)...

Main 132.5 (350 is 135)
Pilot 40 (350 is 37)

otherwise pretty much identical.
Seems so. I guess I will oil up the air filter and close up the air box. Tomorrow night is going to be the big night.
Weird that the 250 runs bigger jets than the 350.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:29 PM   #15092
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Finally got around to making myself a ghetto-fab rack. Built from scrap metal I had laying around. Next up will be a cutting board saddle bag combo.






Nice! I was going to have something very similar made. I like how you kept it low to the fender and used the whole area behind the seat. The stock rack that is similar leaves a void behind the seat and sits up higher.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:51 AM   #15093
Stretch67
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Finally got around to making myself a ghetto-fab rack. Built from scrap metal I had laying around. Next up will be a cutting board saddle bag combo.


Nah, this is ghetto... fabbed up from the frame of an old BBQ grill. It's strong though.



http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=13037

Yours looks great.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:53 AM   #15094
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Why don't people who want a stiffer swignarm swap out one from a dr650?

Too wide?
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:08 AM   #15095
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What is up with this manual de-compression lever. So you pull the lever, which pulls a smaller lever on the head. It stays in the pulled postion. Kick over the bike gentally till it pops out. Kick over to the top of the cycle. Then kick like hell to start. If it does not start on the first kick, then you jsut kick kick kick kick.... till it does. You don't do the decomp lever thing with every kick.

Is this correct?

Seems like it defeats the purpose of having a decomp system.

What am I missing.
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:15 AM   #15096
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Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
What is up with this manual de-compression lever. So you pull the lever, which pulls a smaller lever on the head. It stays in the pulled postion. Kick over the bike gentally till it pops out. Kick over to the top of the cycle. Then kick like hell to start. If it does not start on the first kick, then you jsut kick kick kick kick.... till it does. You don't do the decomp thing with every try.

Is this correct?

Seems like it defeats the purpose of having a decomp system.

What am I missing.
Apparently, if you have the auto decomp/electric - you may also have a manual decomp lever and/or kickstart. Just kicking away on an auto decomp is fine.

However, if you try kicking away on a kickstart only/with manual decomp you will certainly regret it. I learned the hard way, bruised my foot thru a good pair of boots. I have heard tell of case damage, don't know how likely. Point being, the manual decomp lets you position the piston in the best possible place for kickstarting. It also lets you hold down the lever and easily kick it thru for priming/clearing. Just kicking the lever in a random piston position gets you anything from "no prob" to "sudden stop - standing on the kick lever". At least if you have good compression.

edit - you've got a 94 SE, with Electric start and an auto-decompression cam. You also have a kick start and a manual decompression lever, apparently. The manual doesn't do anything for you.
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Old 03-19-2013, 10:55 AM   #15097
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Originally Posted by Wadester View Post
Apparently, if you have the auto decomp/electric - you may also have a manual decomp lever and/or kickstart. Just kicking away on an auto decomp is fine.

However, if you try kicking away on a kickstart only/with manual decomp you will certainly regret it. I learned the hard way, bruised my foot thru a good pair of boots. I have heard tell of case damage, don't know how likely. Point being, the manual decomp lets you position the piston in the best possible place for kickstarting. It also lets you hold down the lever and easily kick it thru for priming/clearing. Just kicking the lever in a random piston position gets you anything from "no prob" to "sudden stop - standing on the kick lever". At least if you have good compression.

edit - you've got a 94 SE, with Electric start and an auto-decompression cam. You also have a kick start and a manual decompression lever, apparently. The manual doesn't do anything for you.
Sorry I needed to be a little more specific. I have a 94 SE with the magic E-start button and a auto decomp, no kicker no manual decomp.

I am trying to salvage another DR from parts: a 90 DR250 or 350 ( I have both engines, currently the 250 is installed). So I need to do the de-comp lever thing with each starting kick attempt. Thank you for your calirification. I have jsut seen others kick away and only pull the lever the first time. I guess they were doing it wrong.

Here is a "how it stands" picture of the bastard child.
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:12 PM   #15098
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Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
I am trying to salvage another DR from parts: a 90 DR250 or 350 ( I have both engines, currently the 250 is installed). So I need to do the de-comp lever thing with each starting kick attempt. Thank you for your calirification. I have jsut seen others kick away and only pull the lever the first time. I guess they were doing it wrong.
I know that when I'm starting my '92, I will hold the lever down and give 3 kicks to "prime", then slow kick 'til the lever pops up, then kick hard. If it doesn't start then, I often just slow kick/pop/kick a couple of times. This morning (40F, 6am) it took three priming sets (about 10 kicks each) and 2 or 3 kicks between to fire up. About average for not run in a week and cold starting.

Back when I was learning, I did indeed just kick it w/o the decomp - and managed to get it started w/o damage to self or bike for a while, until I caught it wrong and hurt my foot. I had noted some hard kicking, but just figured it was a part of the process since the 350 was the biggest thing I ever kickstarted.

PS: Nice looking project bike!
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:12 PM   #15099
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The manual compression release is only used to position the crank/piston so that you can kick through a complete compression stroke. It does nothing during the actual kick. You only get one compression stroke per kick so you want to start your kick in the correct place. Use it every kick. And, when you start in the correct place you really don't have to "kick hell out it". You DO need to start at the top and kick thru a complete stroke.
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:00 PM   #15100
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I was wondering if anyone makes case savers for the dr 350? I use to have a drz400 and these were a must have , but I seem to not be able to find any for the dr350. Do I even need them? No sure how solid the cases are on these bikes. Also if not available, is there a model for another bike that might fit with some minor modifications? I have a 95 350 se. thanks
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:13 PM   #15101
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Wow, I finally made it thru all 1007 pages of this thread

Well, I picked up a '90 DR350S with 7,600 miles late last summer took it on a couple shakedown rides. The vibration from the Dunlop D606's killed me while commuting from Salem to Portland so I put on a set of Shinko Trail masters and switched the 13/43 sprockets to 15/43. Much better on the freeway. It's pretty much stock except for some type of renthal bars and a cobra exhaust. It's a bear to start when cold so I just adjusted the valves and Just pulled the carb for a good cleaning, waiting on a magneto cover gasket and a raptor petcock to put everything back together.
If I can turn this DR into a 1-3 kick bike I'll keep it and start modifying it with a larger tank and racks in the back otherwise it's gonna be on craigslist soon.



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Old 03-19-2013, 02:13 PM   #15102
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Originally Posted by coonass35 View Post
I was wondering if anyone makes case savers for the dr 350? I use to have a drz400 and these were a must have , but I seem to not be able to find any for the dr350. Do I even need them? No sure how solid the cases are on these bikes. Also if not available, is there a model for another bike that might fit with some minor modifications? I have a 95 350 se. thanks

Assume you mean the stick on case saver, vs the sprocket one.Never seen one.
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:18 PM   #15103
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Assume you mean the stick on case saver, vs the sprocket one.Never seen one.

Yeah that is what I meant.
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:30 PM   #15104
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DRZ needs them cause the cases are some weak magnesium stuff. DR steel I guess
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:41 PM   #15105
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...
If I can turn this DR into a 1-3 kick bike...
If you haven't already done so, remove the EPA seal over (actually under) the idle mixture screw and back that little guy out about 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Makes a huge difference in starting.
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