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Old 12-07-2005, 11:01 AM   #1
Jarvis OP
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anti-seize?

I'm putting a new sparky in the Stella and have the following (simple?) question:

Do I put anti-seize on the threads? If so, what flavor?

Thanks,
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:07 AM   #2
VespaFitz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarvis
I'm putting a new sparky in the Stella and have the following (simple?) question:

Do I put anti-seize on the threads? If so, what flavor?

Thanks,
Liver and onions.
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Old 12-07-2005, 12:56 PM   #3
Joe Dirt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarvis
Do I put anti-seize on the threads? If so, what flavor?
I wouldn't bother but I don't see a problem with it. Don't goop it up though. Flavor? I didn't know there were different flavors of anti-seize. If you're confusing anti-seize with thread-lock then step away from the Loctite. Thread-lock on a sparkplug would be bad.
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Old 12-07-2005, 02:26 PM   #4
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When I was a diesel mech on a crab boat we used a product called John Crane, (which we called John Wayne), on everything. It was good for engines that run 24/7. Nothing worse than spinning the head off a bolt during a quick disassembly at sea.
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Old 12-07-2005, 03:55 PM   #5
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Like everything else on internet forums, there is a debate about anti-seize on sparkplugs. Use a very small quantity if any. Sparks plugs shed their heat through contact with the cylinder head and anti-seize can act as an insulator. I use a silver based anti-seize on the aluminum heads on my car but they are a pain to get at and are likely to be neglected. Silver is one of the best electrical and thermal conductors so it should be okay in small quantity on plugs. The brand name is "Silver Goop". It is quite expensive, something like $35.00 for that tube. I obtained it from a previous employer.
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Old 12-08-2005, 12:15 AM   #6
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I would reccomend a copper based anti-sieze for a couple of reasons...
1. It handles the heat better than the usual stuff (aluminum) since it will stay in a paste or liquid state longer (the aluminum stuff cakes up with the heat).
2. copper is a better conductor than aluminum (a minor point)

If you can find the silver stuff that would also be better than the aluminum, but the copper stuff is readily available.

Be sure to use the smallest amount possible, you don't want any on the ceramic or electrodes.

JJ
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Old 12-08-2005, 06:29 PM   #7
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A wealth of knowledge, as always. Thanks!

(Except for VespaFritz. )
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Old 12-08-2005, 06:32 PM   #8
BikePilot
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I've always used antizeize on 4-strokes, a little dab of whatever was handy - usually the grey or copper colored stuff. I've never bother on two strokes as they seem to autolube their plug threads I've also never had a plug get stuck or suffer anything related to thread prep or lack there of.
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Old 12-08-2005, 06:39 PM   #9
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never sieze

Exhaust flange bolts shoud get NS and any nut where corrosion can buid up.
This would include dissimilar metals, such as a steel bolt into aluminum. Also
stainless to stainless hardware should have NS if it is a softer stainless
(300 series). In a lot of applications with out high heat, Loctite can be used to prevent corrosion and lock the fitting.
S/W
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Old 12-08-2005, 07:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S/W
Exhaust flange bolts shoud get NS and any nut where corrosion can buid up.
This would include dissimilar metals, such as a steel bolt into aluminum. Also
stainless to stainless hardware should have NS if it is a softer stainless
(300 series). In a lot of applications with out high heat, Loctite can be used to prevent corrosion and lock the fitting.
S/W
Yup.

As to the sparker, it's a good idea, was SOP when I was a VW mech, and it doesn't matter what kind. It's not a space shuttle. I bought a tub back in 1971, and I'm still usin' it. It's molybdenum-based. Works good. But it doesn't matter.
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