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Old 03-25-2013, 05:05 PM   #34141
manfromthestix
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Lexington, Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PYG RYDR View Post
Lots of good riding here in the Appalachians. I now live in Collinsville, VA-but bought 5 acres just west of Churchville, VA off Jennings Gap Road-so fairly close to you. Maybe we can share some riding some day,..

Regards,

Galen
Hey Galen, we were just up in the Churchville area a couple weekends ago. We don't like driving on the interstate so usually take backroads, and went to the Dayton Farmer's Market for lunch and shopping. On the way home we decided to see what the Natural Chimneys are all about since I'm a geologist and enjoy looking at rox:



After we left there we decided to go exploring and got totally ferking lost in the mountains west of C-ville, found some excellent trout streams, and finally popped back out on Highway 250 about ten miles west of Churchville and made it to the gas station with about half a gallon to spare in our Toyota Corolla. It was fun exploring those back roads but next time I want to be on a bike - the little car did fine, but it's brand new so my wife was grimacing about all the mud and scraping noises .

I bought a 2010 WR250R ten days ago and because of work and weather have gotten to ride it a whopping 20 miles since purchasing it. Here are a few shots of that short but excellent first ride:

House Mountain seen from North Mountain (Turnpike Road)



View toward our house:



It took some effort but I found some mud and snow:



Then, the weather happened again. This was today (Monday), about ten inches on the ground but melting fast.



Same location as the first bike picture above but a tad more snow...



Turkeys were out and foraging, we saw a large flock but couldn't get a picture. They're big!



I'm ready for some drier weather so I can get the bike out, put the lowering link on (I'm 6" shorter than the PO), and go for a long ride! I'm loving it so far...

Doug
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:28 PM   #34142
UtahFox
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Location: Salt Lake City
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Factory Lower Option...

I'm right in the middle of this, and can't figure out one thing. I've got everything setup, I've run out the adjuster nut 25 +2 clicks, and I've loosened the lock nut below that up to a point 2-3 threads below the adjuster.



What I can't figure out is how to get the lower shock mount block up to the lock nut. If you just grab the block and turn it, the piston shaft and spring etc just turn with it. There is a 'nut' (red arrow below) right up against the plate at the bottom of the spring, if I put a wrench on that and turn the lower block it turns, but its very hard and I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing here.

SO - do I hold tight at the red arrow here, and turn shock block (yellow) clockwise to shorten the the assembly?



Hope this makes sense.

Dave

UtahFox screwed with this post 03-25-2013 at 05:33 PM
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:35 PM   #34143
KansasBob
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Location: Topeka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
I'm right in the middle of this, and can't figure out one thing. I've got everything setup, I've run out the adjuster nut 25 +2 clicks, and I've loosened the lock nut below that up to a point 2-3 threads below the adjuster.



What I can't figure out is how to get the lower shock mount block up to the lock nut. If you just grab the block and turn it, the piston shaft and spring etc just turn with it. There is a 'nut' right up against the plate at the bottom of the spring, if I put a wrench on that and turn the lower block it turns, but its very hard and I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing here.

SO - do I hold tight at the red arrow here, and turn shock block (yellow) clockwise to shorten the the assembly?



Hope this makes sense.

Dave
I see lock tite........... that's most likely your problem. Mine just turned up with no issues. Clean the blue stuff off, put a little wd-40 on it and see if it will turn without turning the shaft, and yes you can back it all up holding the nut on the bottom of the shock.

I also found out you can bottom the threads out and make the bike as low as it will go, and the adjuster will still adjust just fine. I only have mine out 3 clicks for max rebound damping.......... the best setting on a stock shock.

KansasBob screwed with this post 03-25-2013 at 05:40 PM
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:40 PM   #34144
UtahFox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post
I see lock tite........... that's most likely your problem. Mine just turned up with on issues. Clean the blue stuff off, put a little wd-40 on it and see if it will turn without turning the shaft.

I also found out you can bottom the threads out and make the bike as low as it will go, and the adjuster will still adjust just fine. I only have mine out 3 clicks for max rebound damping.......... the best setting on a stock shock.
But I am on the right track? I've done the WD-40, but didn't know how to get that Loctite off, and suggestions there?

Thanks Bob.
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:43 PM   #34145
KansasBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
But I am on the right track? I've done the WD-40, but didn't know how to get that Loctite off, and suggestions there?

Thanks Bob.
You're doing fine. Just run that jam nut up until it bottoms out (assuming you want max lowering) then screw the yoke up to meet it. Bolt it all back up and nun the jam nut down against the yoke. Hold it with the nut just under the spring if the lock tite is a problem.
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:47 PM   #34146
UtahFox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KansasBob View Post
You're doing fine. Just run that jam nut up until it bottoms out (assuming you want max lowering) then screw the yoke up to meet it. Bolt it all back up and nun the jam nut down against the yoke. Hold it with the nut just under the spring if the lock tite is a problem.
Funny, these things never go super smoothly for me, and since I'm somewhat of a new mechanic I always question whether or not I'm doing it right. Thanks for your help.
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:52 PM   #34147
KansasBob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
Funny, these things never go super smoothly for me, and since I'm somewhat of a new mechanic I always question whether or not I'm doing it right. Thanks for your help.
Hopefully I didn't steer you wrong, but I know when I had mine apart this winter I ran that jam nut all the way to the end of the threads, and it all worked just fine.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:22 PM   #34148
Red Sand
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Hand Guards Update --> The guy at highway emailed me and said I'd have to get a new handlebar in order to use their hand guards. Also, there's some other problem he mentioned. Too much hassle so I'm going with the Cycra (sp?)

Skid Plate update --> looking for a good dealer. Someone here PM'ed me and offered me their used one which may be a good option. Are there any bad skid plates - ones that are too flimsy or ones that don't fit well?
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:59 PM   #34149
aj_day
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
What I can't figure out is how to get the lower shock mount block up to the lock nut. If you just grab the block and turn it, the piston shaft and spring etc just turn with it. There is a 'nut' (red arrow below) right up against the plate at the bottom of the spring, if I put a wrench on that and turn the lower block it turns, but its very hard and I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing here.
Just went through this 2 days ago. There was Loctite on the threads of the shaft, and grit in the threads at the bottom of the block. I was not able to get it closer than about 1/2in to the rebound adjuster. I threaded the block all the way off the shaft. Then I cleaned off the threads on the shaft and the threads inside the block with a wire brush. I threaded it back onto the shaft, and then I was able to thread it all the way up to the rebound adjuster.

Good luck!
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:58 PM   #34150
ManLee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReeksyOfOz View Post
I'm liking this. I've yet to buy a rack for my WRR, but have the bag. I used a rollmat underneath it when on my KLR and had wondered how it would fit on a WRR, so thanks for sharing!

What was the rubbermaid tub you cut down? (wonder if i'll find the equivalent in Australia...)

Here is the model I used. 14 gallon(53L) rubbermaid tub.



Here's an 18 gallon for comparison. Either one will work. They share the same top and stack together.
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:16 AM   #34151
Mr. Fisherman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indypup View Post
Hmm, I have had the problem where the fuel pump overheats a couple of times. I just let if cool down and it starts right up.
I'm going to tweak the fuel programmer and see if that makes any difference too. My tailpipe is kind of black sooty looking and it might be running too rich. The spark plug was black too.
Get yourself a new fuel pump on the way now. This one is not long for this world.

Been there, done that.
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:03 AM   #34152
YZEtc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indypup View Post
Hmm, I have had the problem where the fuel pump overheats a couple of times. I just let if cool down and it starts right up.
I'm going to tweak the fuel programmer and see if that makes any difference too. My tailpipe is kind of black sooty looking and it might be running too rich. The spark plug was black too.
Don't bother trying to "save" or "improve" the situation.
This is THE symptom of having an effected and faulty fuel pump that will fail because it was not assembled with adequate clearances for the internal parts to move without seizing-up the pump when it's hot.

If this happens in the heat of summer, you'll be waiting 45 minutes for things to cool enough to restart.
Ask me how I know (on 2 occasions before I caught on).

The solution is replacing the pump.
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:59 AM   #34153
Reeksy
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Brilliant - gives me something to aim for, thanks.

... and I can make a fork seal cleaning tool with some of the leftovers, too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ManLee View Post
Here is the model I used. 14 gallon(53L) rubbermaid tub.



Here's an 18 gallon for comparison. Either one will work. They share the same top and stack together.
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Old 03-26-2013, 04:25 AM   #34154
indypup
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Joined: Apr 2010
Location: Troy, OHIO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Fisherman View Post
Get yourself a new fuel pump on the way now. This one is not long for this world.

Been there, done that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by YZEtc View Post
Don't bother trying to "save" or "improve" the situation.
This is THE symptom of having an effected and faulty fuel pump that will fail because it was not assembled with adequate clearances for the internal parts to move without seizing-up the pump when it's hot.

If this happens in the heat of summer, you'll be waiting 45 minutes for things to cool enough to restart.
Ask me how I know (on 2 occasions before I caught on).

The solution is replacing the pump.
Thanks guys, I'll get one on order because the last time I was out in the woods waiting for a while before it started again. :(
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:15 AM   #34155
cjbiker
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Location: Southern Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aj_day View Post
Just went through this 2 days ago. There was Loctite on the threads of the shaft, and grit in the threads at the bottom of the block. I was not able to get it closer than about 1/2in to the rebound adjuster. I threaded the block all the way off the shaft. Then I cleaned off the threads on the shaft and the threads inside the block with a wire brush. I threaded it back onto the shaft, and then I was able to thread it all the way up to the rebound adjuster.

Good luck!
This raises a question from me. I bought my WR used, and it may have been lowered by the original owner. What's the "stock" setting for the shock clevis? Is there a measurement from the top of the block to the rebound adjuster?
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