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Old 03-21-2013, 01:30 AM   #2851
Bounder
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: West Cork, Ireland
Oddometer: 599
Quote:
Originally Posted by adkfreeridex View Post
here are two pics of the plug (one with flash and one without), i tried to compare them with photos of plugs on the internet and my conclusion is that im running lean, can anyone confirm this? however, If i am running lean, why does my problem get worse with altitude?
I can't answer any altitude questions.
But looking at the available specs from the XR650L engine it would seem that the usual jetting for over 5000ft is 55 pilot and 155 main,
All bikes are different, but I would strongly recommend Daves Mods its not just richer its also the way the mixture is delivered at different throttle openings.
Raising the needle is easy enough and reversable if necessary,
What condition is your air filter in? Its easy for them to get all clogged up with the oil mist in the airbox.
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:00 AM   #2852
jeepinjeffery
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Location: Utah
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Revive the dead thread

Just found this site, again. I'm going to read all the previous posts but I am about to pull my Dominator out of storage and prep for riding this season.
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Old 03-25-2013, 05:51 PM   #2853
adkfreeridex
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So in an effort to try and find the cause of my poor mileage and loss of power, I adjusted my valve clearances. All were pretty close to spec, but the right exhaust took about five full turns out before I could get the gauge in. I buttoned everything back up, and the bike runs good, seems smoother but it could be because I want it to. But now I'm getting loud tapping from what I think is right exhaust valve. I have searched and found that it is connected to a decompression unit and that my method for clearance wont work. can anyone tell me how to properly set the clearance on this valve? Thanks!
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:12 PM   #2854
FLICKIT
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Down-under Down-under
Oddometer: 749
Quote:
Originally Posted by adkfreeridex View Post
So in an effort to try and find the cause of my poor mileage and loss of power, I adjusted my valve clearances. All were pretty close to spec, but the right exhaust took about five full turns out before I could get the gauge in. I buttoned everything back up, and the bike runs good, seems smoother but it could be because I want it to. But now I'm getting loud tapping from what I think is right exhaust valve. I have searched and found that it is connected to a decompression unit and that my method for clearance wont work. can anyone tell me how to properly set the clearance on this valve? Thanks!
You need to turn the engine just past TDC (top-dead-center) so the decompresser releases that valve before you check it ;)

EDIT:
From memory you usally hear a "clack" as the decompresser lets go, you only need to go about 5 degrees past TDC...

With the valve loose as it is now, you should be able to turn the engine past TDC and see when the gap opens up to know when the decompresser has let go...

Good luck :)

FLICKIT screwed with this post 03-25-2013 at 06:18 PM
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:33 PM   #2855
FLICKIT
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Location: Down-under Down-under
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adkfreeridex View Post
So in an effort to try and find the cause of my poor mileage
How bad is your mileage? (just out of interest)

My bike ran great... but mileage varied a heap depending on how hard I was pushing it...

Best was around 20Km/L (47mpg) when cruising slow n easy ...
Worse was around 13Km/L (31mpg) when hammering it around offroad...
(average was 16-17Km/L (39mpg) when cruising around the forests without hammering it too hard)
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:20 PM   #2856
adkfreeridex
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I get 32-34 mpg no matter how I ride the bike around town. I will be satisfied if I can get 40.

Flick, thanks for the tips on that valve. Bike is back together and it sounds and runs good. It seems be accelerate quicker and throttle response is snappier, it also seems to chug less at low rpms. I hope this helps my fuel economy. The guy at the parts place looked at my plug, and with mods bike has recommended a 165 main. Ill run ~50 miles with valve adjustment and re calculate mileage to see if it will help. If not ill try that bigger main.
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:45 PM   #2857
Dr LC8
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Location: Manchester...but from Rome!
Oddometer: 807
Acerbis Tank

Any chance to find one still around for sale?

Nic
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:25 PM   #2858
Skapegoat
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Ireland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adkfreeridex View Post
I get 32-34 mpg no matter how I ride the bike around town. I will be satisfied if I can get 40.

Flick, thanks for the tips on that valve. Bike is back together and it sounds and runs good. It seems be accelerate quicker and throttle response is snappier, it also seems to chug less at low rpms. I hope this helps my fuel economy. The guy at the parts place looked at my plug, and with mods bike has recommended a 165 main. Ill run ~50 miles with valve adjustment and re calculate mileage to see if it will help. If not ill try that bigger main.
I assume your air pump on your carb is working correctly?
Where the throttle cables attach to the carb is like a cam, there should be an arm with a rubber tip tracking along this.
Sometimes these arms stick open with dirt/corrosion etc.
Mine ran like a sick puppy until I realized this was the problem.

Now it's much better!
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:49 AM   #2859
Carlossal
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Mid North Coast, NSW, Aus
Oddometer: 15
Still an owner, trying to be a mechanic too!

Hi all,

Posted on here a coupla years ago but have been lurking ever since. Still have an '89 Dominator with about a million k's on it but have a couple of tech questions:
1) I'm reading the workshop manual trying to pull my forks to pieces to check bushes as I'm replacing fork seals and oil. I've removed the fork slider socket bolt (on the bottom of the forks - allen bolt with copper washer) and now the fork piston and return spring have slid out the top. The manual says to move the fork slider in and out, "tapping the bushing lightly" until fork tube and fork slider separate. Does this mean, just keep working it in and out until they separate - the slider pulling out the bushing? I can't see any other way I can tap it.

2) I have the brake off too, and am trying to replace the pads. I say trying because I successfully took the old pads out, but now the new ones won't fit in . I suspect my piston is very very sticky, and wondering how people get around this. Put the old pad back in and hit it with a drift? Soak the whole lot in WD-40? I did stick a screwdriver in there when I was taking the old pads out; but didn't notice that the pistons didn't move. I notice now

Any help much appreciated. I was getting spongy braking, really soft suspension and repeated diving and rising on braking, so figured suspension and brakes both needed work. I'm replacing disk as well as pads, but wasn't planning to do any more on the suspension than fork oil and seals.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:46 PM   #2860
MartinPetren
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Gothenburg or Uppsala
Oddometer: 321
Hi everyone, I have a NX650 from '91 that has a blown rear shock. I am currently searching thru Ebay for a used one. Is there by any chance any other shock from another model or brand that also fits?

I hope to get some advice as I'm sure the bike is still bouncing up and down in the garage from today's ride.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:18 PM   #2861
FLICKIT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlossal View Post
Hi all,

1)The manual says to move the fork slider in and out, "tapping the bushing lightly" until fork tube and fork slider separate. Does this mean, just keep working it in and out until they separate - the slider pulling out the bushing? I can't see any other way I can tap it.
I put the fork leg in a vice with some rag around it and pulled the inner slider in and out so the bottom of the slider hits against the seal, I started with taps but it took hard yanks to break the seals loose and get them out, I had to be fairly brutal, who-ever put them in didn't put any grease around them... also, make sure you remove the circlip that sits above the oil seal, under the dust seal....

Quote:
2) I have the brake off too, and am trying to replace the pads. I say trying because I successfully took the old pads out, but now the new ones won't fit in . I suspect my piston is very very sticky, and wondering how people get around this.
I had the same issue getting the piston to go back in... I put the old piston side pad back in and squeezed with a F-clamp while cracking the bleed nipple open, .... Don't try pushing the piston back in by putting force straight on the face of the piston, for heat insulation they have a thin metal covered fiberglass disk on the end of the piston that could easily be damaged...

Quote:
Any help much appreciated. I was getting spongy braking, really soft suspension and repeated diving and rising on braking, so figured suspension and brakes both needed work. I'm replacing disk as well as pads, but wasn't planning to do any more on the suspension than fork oil and seals.
I always had a fairly spongy front brake... I suspect it was due to the old rubber brake hose expanding... If your brake overhaul doesn't fix the issue it might be worth trying a braided brake hose...

Good Luck :)
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:15 PM   #2862
Honda Scoot
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: N.E. Ohio
Oddometer: 355
Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinPetren View Post
Hi everyone, I have a NX650 from '91 that has a blown rear shock. I am currently searching thru Ebay for a used one. Is there by any chance any other shock from another model or brand that also fits?

I hope to get some advice as I'm sure the bike is still bouncing up and down in the garage from today's ride.

Thanks in advance!
See the rear shock post that I have adding info:
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....postcount=2770
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:56 PM   #2863
adkfreeridex
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Joined: Mar 2011
Oddometer: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by adkfreeridex View Post
I get 32-34 mpg no matter how I ride the bike around town. I will be satisfied if I can get 40.

Flick, thanks for the tips on that valve. Bike is back together and it sounds and runs good. It seems be accelerate quicker and throttle response is snappier, it also seems to chug less at low rpms. I hope this helps my fuel economy. The guy at the parts place looked at my plug, and with mods bike has recommended a 165 main. Ill run ~50 miles with valve adjustment and re calculate mileage to see if it will help. If not ill try that bigger main.
So the valve adjustment increased mileage by about 1 mpg. I got 35 for the last 70 miles. I threw in the 165 main, an the engine ran down here (5000') like it does at 8000' with the 155. I think I'll try a 150 main. Also, what is the function of mixing screw, I can't seem to notice what it does when I adjust it. Also, my carb kit came with two o-rings one for the tip of mixing screw near the spring and another is supposed to go somewhere on shaft according to the parts diagram but I can't figure out where, it is also a larger diameter. There was no existing one to compare to. Any recommendations on a high flow air filter? Can anyone else think why my mileage is so bad? I can incorrect jetting really throw off mileage by 15mpg?
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:39 PM   #2864
Honda Scoot
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: N.E. Ohio
Oddometer: 355
Rothmans Honda NX650

Stickers / Decals are in for the Rothmans scheme. Not an African Twin or a Marathon, but it'll be OK for me.
http://www.nightwings.org/Marathon/M...n-home-en.html



I placed a few to check the look of them.


Honda Scoot screwed with this post 04-06-2013 at 06:47 PM
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:55 AM   #2865
dstriffler
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: New York
Oddometer: 312
Can't wait to see it finished!
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