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Old 03-24-2013, 05:09 PM   #2581
TexBiker
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And it made it's first trip around the block this afternoon! Now to get tags and inspection done tomorrow...

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Old 03-24-2013, 06:33 PM   #2582
Hawk62cj5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexBiker View Post
And it made it's first trip around the block this afternoon! Now to get tags and inspection done tomorrow...

Good deal
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:24 PM   #2583
Voidrider
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I picked up a nicely farkled 2000 from Dragon Rider up in Portland Oregon yesterday. Got it unloaded today and minutes later twisted my back (amazingly not at all related to unloading the bike). So much for my first planned ride. No pics yet, but its a bike my wife and I will be sharing.

We are super happy as we feel it is about the perfect bike for our desired mix of on and offroad riding.

Unloaded, a day later...



Off and riding...


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Old 03-28-2013, 05:48 AM   #2584
Hawk62cj5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rey & Vann View Post
Ken,


In any case, it's easy enough to change the oil. Try 15 wt and no spacer.



You might be better dropping out the forks and simply change out the fluid. I don't remember the exact mileage, something like 1400 - 1600 miles, but when I did the swap, I was surprised at how dirty the oil was and how much sludgy, metallic brass flecks and dark gray to black muck there was in the forks. Also, after reading the procedure for checking the fluid level, I decided the best way to do it would be the fully compressed, without fork spring method. I may have mentioned earlier fully extended with spring, but different bike.

Anyway, procedure and specs for off bike is 147 +- 2 km from the top of the inner tube to the fluid surface with fork completely upright.

On bike, same measurement, jack front end up till wheel of ground,loosen top tree pinch bolts, take cap off, pull spring out, block front wheel so forks are compressed all the way, by bike angle same as riding stance and measure. Make sure to measure at center of tube. Extend forks all the way prior to installing new springs or re-installing old ones.

I think suspension is one of those subjective things. What feels right to one person may feel downright scary to another. Experiment with both spacers (preload) and oil. Both are easy to do and relatively inexpensive.

One last note regarding oil volumes, wet fluid change starting volume is 300 ml. Since I cleaned out my forks with kerosene, let them sit overnight upside down, and rinsed them out with the old fluid (yes, the old... poured off clear oil after muck settled out), I used the wet volume measurement of 300 ml. One fork was 8mm high, the other 7mm low. I think the volume measurement is a baseline, the distance measurement is what gets it right, and I think it makes a difference since the variance in only +-2mm... I use a Motion Pro fork oil measuring tube and syringe...

Hope this helps, and again, if you're local or riding through, let me know!
I pretty much copied you

Ok redid my front forks last night , first time I ever messed with forks at all and it took me about 2 hours not including drain time on the forks after cleaning them . I dropped the forks out cleaned them out with kero after removing the springs and let them set for a hour . I then flushed out with strait 10 wt fork oil until the kero smell was gone . One fork was clean and the oil resembled slightly used ATF the out fork had a glob of what looked like mud mid way on the spring and the fluid was dark about like burned atf . I didnt notice any metal or glitter but I was out side with poor light so I could have missed it . I had originally bought 10 wt oil because I read that was what came in it , then bought the 20 wt oil . So I put 150 ml of 10wt then 150 ml of 20 wt of each in both forks, both were short of the measurement of 147 mm. I then mixed 50ccof 10wt and 50cc of 20wt in a clean container and used it to raise the level up to the 147 mark , I let them set and double checked the both were correct .One took about 10ml extra and the other took about 15ml extra. I dropped the 1136 springs in and just put the provided washer over the spring then put the factory washer on top of that because it fit the tube better . The 1136 springs both matched the length of the factory springs perfectly so no spacers at all. Then I reinstalled the forks and wheel , dropped it off my KLR rear luggage device and bounced it a bit with my weight on it and sit on it to see if it felt any different , it didnt feel like it sagged any more or less . I try to go ride this evening to see how it feels .

One thing I am wondering about though , the page of the manual I saw with the levels said 147mm from top with a fluid change of 300 ml , dry assembly 354 ml . Im wondering if I should have worked the forks a bit before checking the levels to make sure air was worked out of the damping valve?

last night on the car port , the wife wasnt happy I took her spot because she had to leave early this morn and didnt want frost on her windshield .
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09 Super Sherpa KL250
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Trailering a bike is like hiring a prostitute just to jerk off in front of her .

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Old 03-28-2013, 09:00 AM   #2585
TexBiker
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I finally got tired of pulling the little side panel to access my charging plug, so I put in a thru-port for the Battery Tender cable. Much more convenient.

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Old 03-28-2013, 05:17 PM   #2586
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I finally got tired of pulling the little side panel to access my charging plug, so I put in a thru-port for the Battery Tender cable. Much more convenient.

Where did you get that ?
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:40 PM   #2587
Hawk62cj5
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Originally Posted by Sequoia View Post
Where did you get that ?

I was wondering too . I have a power pole connecters made for mine but that is a right slick plug .
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:32 PM   #2588
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Powerlet.com

Pass Thru Port

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Old 03-30-2013, 10:00 AM   #2589
Hawk62cj5
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Well tried the bike on a super short run this morning ,at first meh , then tried super hard breaking that felt alot better.
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:55 PM   #2590
El Toad Man
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Location: Cairns, Australia
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Super Sherpa 2006

I picked up this little beauty recently, I've been riding it for about a month now. Commuting to work and some gnarly trail riding. After spending many years riding 650s, this is so easy to maneuver, especially when the trail gets really tight. Loads of fun, they go better than I expected, and surprisingly competent at highway cruising too.



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Old 03-30-2013, 05:56 PM   #2591
Hawk62cj5
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Ok rode about 40 miles on the 1136 springs with the 15 wt oil , no preload . The bike felt better and little smoother and not quite as mushy . To me it wasnt a night and day difference but noticeable , was it worth the money and time .... not sure yet but Ill update after I run some offroad with it along with some more rough Va back roads . I think the oil helped with the mushy feel and the springs gave it a little smoother feel because it felt like the backend was bouncing a bit harder than the back end.
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:40 PM   #2592
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Seeing the non-US bikes in this thread really makes me want to find a high front fender for one of my Sherpas.
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:03 PM   #2593
ssmschulz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexBiker View Post
Seeing the non-US bikes in this thread really makes me want to find a high front fender for one of my Sherpas.
It is easy, go down to the motorcycle store and pick up a KX front fender. I put a black one on my and looks great. Used the bolts from the low fender to mount it at the botom of my triple clamp. I trimmed the back of the fender so it didn't rub the frame and it also increases air flow.
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:49 PM   #2594
Hannda
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Powerlet.com

Pass Thru Port

Very nice. I've just got my cable zip tied to the subframe.
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Old 04-01-2013, 07:54 AM   #2595
Rey & Vann
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk62cj5 View Post
I pretty much copied you

Ok redid my front forks last night , first time I ever messed with forks at all and it took me about 2 hours not including drain time on the forks after cleaning them . I dropped the forks out cleaned them out with kero after removing the springs and let them set for a hour . I then flushed out with strait 10 wt fork oil until the kero smell was gone . One fork was clean and the oil resembled slightly used ATF the out fork had a glob of what looked like mud mid way on the spring and the fluid was dark about like burned atf . I didnt notice any metal or glitter but I was out side with poor light so I could have missed it . I had originally bought 10 wt oil because I read that was what came in it , then bought the 20 wt oil . So I put 150 ml of 10wt then 150 ml of 20 wt of each in both forks, both were short of the measurement of 147 mm. I then mixed 50ccof 10wt and 50cc of 20wt in a clean container and used it to raise the level up to the 147 mark , I let them set and double checked the both were correct .One took about 10ml extra and the other took about 15ml extra. I dropped the 1136 springs in and just put the provided washer over the spring then put the factory washer on top of that because it fit the tube better . The 1136 springs both matched the length of the factory springs perfectly so no spacers at all. Then I reinstalled the forks and wheel , dropped it off my KLR rear luggage device and bounced it a bit with my weight on it and sit on it to see if it felt any different , it didnt feel like it sagged any more or less . I try to go ride this evening to see how it feels .

One thing I am wondering about though , the page of the manual I saw with the levels said 147mm from top with a fluid change of 300 ml , dry assembly 354 ml . Im wondering if I should have worked the forks a bit before checking the levels to make sure air was worked out of the damping valve?

last night on the car port , the wife wasnt happy I took her spot because she had to leave early this morn and didnt want frost on her windshield .

Hawk,

You should pump the forks after you put the oil in, then start measuring. Most of the time, 3 or 4 pumps will do, but I always do more, 10 or 12.

You could go through the measuring process again, with forks on bike. Just support bike with front wheel slightly off the ground, pull caps (make sure to loosen top clamps!), pull springs and set aside to drip-dry. I jack front wheel up with a low profile scissor jack (from a junk yard) till wheel is up high enough to bottom forks and re measure with the fork oil level tool, making sure straw tune is in the center of the tube. Set your level and put it all back together.

If you have the syringe tool, you could draw an equal volume of oil from both tubes and add more 20wt as well.

The beauty of the syringe tool is that you can make fluid mix adjustments consistently, such as withdrawing 60ml and adding back 60 of heavier weight oil.

It may not feel like a big difference to you after your initial change, but you did good by it anyway simply by cleaning out your forks. Sounded like the one was pretty nasty!

Rx4Pain, did you ever re-try your springs?

Best regards,

*Edit* BTW, it really wasn't hard to do, was it. Next time, you could probably do it in 2/3rd of the time!
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