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Old 04-03-2013, 04:12 PM   #8071
NovaMoto
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I have no problem pulling 3rd gear roll-on wheelies on pavement while sitting on the seat. 4th gear only requires a tiny tug anywhere from 70-110kph.

Then again my bike's tune isn't stock ;)

Quote:
Originally Posted by wiswoodsguy View Post
Which is ??

Mine was swapped out before I bought it - set up for more road use - and it is not that desirable for how I ride.

I wanna do 3rd gear power wheelies (btw I can do 4th gear standing wheelies on my 520 )
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:45 PM   #8072
Roadracer_Al
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A little diversion

Well, for the first time in almost 15k miles, my '08 left me by the side of the road.... with my cell phone charging on my desk at home. D'oh.

Turns out the fuel quick-disconnect, uh, quickly disconnected (mid-wheelie, which felt particularly odd).

Took a bit of tinkering to find the problem, but it was easily solved.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:58 PM   #8073
slidefighter
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I’ve gotten a lot of quality info off this website, so I figure it’s about time I made a bit of a payback. I’m not very familiar with my 690 (yet) but I did recently finish building an airplane from a kit. Not important, except that it exposed me to a lot of useful aircraft products, hardware, electrical, and structural resources that some of you may not know about. Use at your own discretion, but the following are in common usage and are “common knowledge” among the homebuilt aircraft crowd. A couple of them have been mentioned by others here before. Aircraft hardware is typically very high quality as almost all of it has to meet either AN (Army/Navy), MS (Military Standard), or NAS (National Aerospace) standards.

If you shop for any of this stuff, you will see those terms over and over; there is a bewildering array of (particularly) AN hardware out there. Those of you working over your fuel systems will likely find AN fuel hardware very useful. The only thing to be aware of with almost all aircraft hardware is that it is to U.S. SAE fittings standards, meaning NOT metric, so you might have to carry a couple of extra combination wrenches in your tool kit if you use it. On the other hand, AN hardware seldom fails.

Here are my major sources (sometimes finding things on their sites is not easy---it’s ALL there though, keep digging or just call them):

Aircraft Spruce (www.aircraftspruce.com): Bearings, bolts, bushings, clamps, connectors, fittings, flanges, grommets, machine screws, nuts, washers, tools, sheet aluminum, etc. WAY too much to list. This is the most common resource in the homebuilt aircraft world. I have these guys on speed dial! They have warehouses on both U.S. coasts and ship internationally all the time.

Wicks Aircraft Supply (http://www.wicksaircraft.com/index.html): Wicks is virtually identical to Aircraft Spruce. I’ve bought from them countless times. Sometimes prices on one will be lower than the other, for a particular item. Also, sometimes one will have something in stock that the other doesn’t. Just check with them both.

SteinAir (http://www.steinair.com): These guys are my favorite source for everything electrical and related. Don’t be put off by their obvious airplane orientation. They have all sorts of things you might want for your 690 electrical system: Cable and zip ties, connectors, fuze blocks, grommets and bushings, heat shrink, spiral wrap, lights, switches, terminals, tools, wire, chafe protection, etc.


Here are some other products you can find on the above sites I think would be of specific benefit to motorcyclists:

A wide variety of 3M products (fire barrier, anti-chafe, protective tapes, the list is endless)

Anti-sieze: Champion Spark Plug anti-sieze

Boelube: Amazing lubricant for screws; I just use their little tube---looks like chapstick; amazing

Kroil: Nothing breaks loose rusted threads like this stuff

Mouse Milk: Great thread lubricant, but I also use it when connecting exhaust joints. Will penetrate right into the joint. Some aircraft exhaust systems have swivel joints in them; keeps them from locking up

Corrosion X: Nothing rusts with Corrosion X on it

ProSeal/890: This stuff is a little hard to work with but it’s magic and has a lot of uses. Comes with different curing times, but it all works the same. Seals almost any joint and is fuel resistant. Most aircraft fuel tanks are metal on metal, just riveted together these days. They can be permanently, internally sealed by applying ProSeal along the joints and around vents, fuel pickups, etc. It cures with a slight residual flexibility unlike JB Weld. I’ve used it in lots of applications, even to seal my windshield to its aluminum frame.

Kresto/Stoko Hand Cleaner: Best hand cleaner around. We use it where I work and it is the only thing we have that will take Proseal off your hands. amazing stuff. Like most of the other brands, just clean your hands dry and then add water and wash off. By the way, any Proseal you get on your clothes, is there forever.

Hope some of this is helpful...

Regards,


Lee...
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:22 AM   #8074
ArcticRider
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Overheating

Hey Gents,
I am new to the 690 and riding in Arizona (ambient temp 80'ish). It's a 2008 with 15K miles and the high temp warning light goes on frequently and the gauge reaches 12 bars and flashes. This occurs at stop lights as well as during uphill rides. No error codes are thrown.

The surprising thing is that the fan never cycles on until I am at what KTM manual indicates as "critical temps"--several minutes after the red warning light goes from blinking red to solid red.

The thermostat switch was changed by the PO. The coolant is 15 months old but has only 500 miles logged.

Is RallyRaid the only manufacturer of the thermo-switch that kicks the fan on at a lower temp or can I find one locally?

Appreciate any suggestions.

ArcticRider screwed with this post 04-04-2013 at 09:38 AM
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:23 AM   #8075
Albie
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Location: Upstate SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunefreak View Post
Do the valves on these bikes have a tendency to tighten up at all? I always do maintenance a little early and was wondering if I should check my valve clearances now (5k miles) or just wait until the recommended KTM interval at 6,000 miles. Thoughts?
Yes they do, and seeings how it's so simple to check em, why not do it a bit early.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:26 AM   #8076
wsmc831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticRider View Post
Hey Gents,
I am new to the 690 and riding in Arizona (ambient temp 80'ish). It's a 2008 with 15K miles and the high temp warning light goes on frequently and the gauge reaches 12 bars and flashes. This occurs at stop lights as well as during uphill rides. No error codes are thrown.

The surprising thing is that the fan never cycles on until I am at what KTM manual indicates as "critical temps"--several minutes after the red warning light goes from blinking red to solid red.

The thermostat switch was changed by the PO. The coolant is 15 months old but has only 500 miles logged.

Is there a thermo-switch that kicks the fan on at a lower temp?

Appreciate any suggestions.
First, continuing to ride the bike when temps get that hot is just asking for a very expensive repair bill.

It's a simple system. Could be thermostat, switch, air in the lines...Get it looked at if you can't diagnose the system yourself, and don't let it get that hot if you want the bike to last past next week.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:28 AM   #8077
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
On a different note: I ordered new bearings for my rear shock 2 weeks ago (lower is shot) and received an email that they are not in stock with KTM and have a due date near the end of May. Does anyone know of an interchange with KTM part # R15006 "REPAIR KIT BEARINGS" or a source that would likely have them in stock?
Surely you have a local bearing supply shop close by? I never buy OEM bearings when it comes time to replace them.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:32 AM   #8078
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticRider View Post
Hey Gents,
I am new to the 690 and riding in Arizona (ambient temp 80'ish). It's a 2008 with 15K miles and the high temp warning light goes on frequently and the gauge reaches 12 bars and flashes. This occurs at stop lights as well as during uphill rides. No error codes are thrown.

The surprising thing is that the fan never cycles on until I am at what KTM manual indicates as "critical temps"--several minutes after the red warning light goes from blinking red to solid red.

The thermostat switch was changed by the PO. The coolant is 15 months old but has only 500 miles logged.

Is there a thermo-switch that kicks the fan on at a lower temp?

Appreciate any suggestions.
There's something wrong with your cooling system if you keep overheating like that. If the fan is kicking on it should never overheat regardless of what temp switch you have in there. I've ridden my bike in the middle of summer in 100+ temps crawling around rocks and never overheated it.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:46 AM   #8079
ArcticRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmc831 View Post
First, continuing to ride the bike when temps get that hot is just asking for a very expensive repair bill.

It's a simple system. Could be thermostat, switch, air in the lines...Get it looked at if you can't diagnose the system yourself, and don't let it get that hot if you want the bike to last past next week.
Yeah thanks...what I was asking is if this is common for the 690. The manual says 5-11 bars is typical for engine. Do any of you guys see your temp gauge reach 12 or have the temp light cycle on? Do your fans typically cycle below 12 bars?

You list thermostat and switch separately. I thought they were the same component. Where is the switch? Thanks
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:51 AM   #8080
Ranies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticRider View Post
Hey Gents,
I am new to the 690 and riding in Arizona (ambient temp 80'ish). It's a 2008 with 15K miles and the high temp warning light goes on frequently and the gauge reaches 12 bars and flashes. This occurs at stop lights as well as during uphill rides. No error codes are thrown.

The surprising thing is that the fan never cycles on until I am at what KTM manual indicates as "critical temps"--several minutes after the red warning light goes from blinking red to solid red.

The thermostat switch was changed by the PO. The coolant is 15 months old but has only 500 miles logged.

Is RallyRaid the only manufacturer of the thermo-switch that kicks the fan on at a lower temp or can I find one locally?

Appreciate any suggestions.
Mine overheated/showed 12 bars when I did 15 min reset procedure since I was inside house, never again.


That because dealer forgot to plug the fan connector after they had the engine out.

If you are going to change the fan switch Ive got a 88 degrees Suzuki LTZ 400 2006 switch, but have not fitted it yet. If you google you will see that many folks have this one.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:54 AM   #8081
Seth S
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The lower temp fan switch is about $45 from your local suzuki dealer and should be the one from a LTZ400 quad iirc. If your temperature gage is flashing then things are dangerously hot...unless you have a temperature sensor problem. If the fan is not coming on then one of two things is wrong:

1. The coolant isn't actually that hot and the temp senor for the gage is bad
2. The coolant is that hot, and the fan switch is no good..or someone forgot to plug the fan back in.


My gage was getting that hot because my bike blew the headgasket and was consuming vast quantities of coolant as a fuel additive.
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:59 AM   #8082
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticRider View Post
Yeah thanks...what I was asking is if this is common for the 690. The manual says 5-11 bars is typical for engine. Do any of you guys see your temp gauge reach 12 or have the temp light cycle on? Do your fans typically cycle below 12 bars?

You list thermostat and switch separately. I thought they were the same component. Where is the switch? Thanks
Never, and I've ridden mine in summer while the radiator had a leak. It would easily get down to half full and still never saw the temp warning light.
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:03 AM   #8083
ArcticRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
The lower temp fan switch is about $45 from your local suzuki dealer and should be the one from a LTZ400 quad iirc. If your temperature gage is flashing then things are dangerously hot...unless you have a temperature sensor problem. If the fan is not coming on then one of two things is wrong:

1. The coolant isn't actually that hot and the temp senor for the gage is bad
2. The coolant is that hot, and the fan switch is no good..or someone forgot to plug the fan back in.
Right on Seth.
1. I know where the thermo switch is for the fan. Where is the sensor for the cluster?
2. All connections are plugged in.

Is the LTZ400 switch a direct fit replacement?
Thanks
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:13 AM   #8084
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticRider View Post
Right on Seth.
1. I know where the thermo switch is for the fan. Where is the sensor for the cluster?
2. All connections are plugged in.

Is the LTZ400 switch a direct fit replacement?
Thanks

I would also add for consideration;

3. make sure the fins on your radiator are not plugged up with mud/ bugs etc..

The only time my 08 seemed to run consistently hot, I noticed mud in the fins. Don't use a pressure washer to blast them clean if you think you have a similar condition, you could damage the radiator.

Instead, be patient with a garden hose, and rinse the fins thoroughly until it seems the water is running through with little resistance.
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:24 AM   #8085
Aaron from Texas
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Anyone have a stock seat taking up TOO MUCH ROOM in their garage?

I run a Renazco that the PO had on there. Was curious how the stocker would fair for in town jaunts and when I'm rarely seated offroad...
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