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Old 04-07-2013, 08:37 PM   #3421
Jayrod1318
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I guess I'm confused about my torch setup, there is just 3 lines, gas, coolant supply, coolant return.

Is the copper line inside of one of the coolant lines?
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Old 04-07-2013, 08:46 PM   #3422
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That's my understanding. Someone will be along in a minute...................
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:03 AM   #3423
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Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
I guess I'm confused about my torch setup, there is just 3 lines, gas, coolant supply, coolant return.

Is the copper line inside of one of the coolant lines?

Yes!
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:09 AM   #3424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
I guess I'm confused about my torch setup, there is just 3 lines, gas, coolant supply, coolant return.

Is the copper line inside of one of the coolant lines?

Yes.

In the last two years, I melted two, because I'm a dumbass.

Anyone figure out a way to automate the water flow so that an idiot who always remembers to plug-in the water cooler but often forgets to turn it on can save himself the embarasment and expense of replacing the torch lead?
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:38 AM   #3425
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Yes.

In the last two years, I melted two, because I'm a dumbass.

Anyone figure out a way to automate the water flow so that an idiot who always remembers to plug-in the water cooler but often forgets to turn it on can save himself the embarasment and expense of replacing the torch lead?
I did it once. The cost of the hose and time it takes to change it are enough to remember. I now have two tig machines. Now if one breaks I can keep working.

Some machines will not turn power if the water solenoid is not on.

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Old 04-08-2013, 04:27 PM   #3426
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I got the pump to work, it had dried out coolant sticking the vanes. I took it off and soaked it in some vinegar and hot water. I thought I needed a new pump, a quick google search showed that they use this PROCON pump on espresso machines, They get gunked up sitting for a long time and people soak them in acid to free them up. worked for me!

She plugs into the back of the unit, so when you flip the power switch on the welder it turns on.

Now I just need some argon. Pretty sure the cylinder I have is out of date, it also has 750psi of 75% argonx25% co2 mix. Any takers in Fort Collins?

How much is a large tank of argon going for these days if you own the tank? I don't want to get screwed.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:01 PM   #3427
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In California a full tank of argon runs about $120.

For those that are prone to melting power cables on water cooled TIG Torches they make a brass fitting that has a fuseable link that melts before you fry the cable. Last one I bought was about the same price as a power cable. The replacement fuse strips are only a couple of bucks for a package.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:07 PM   #3428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
I guess I'm confused about my torch setup, there is just 3 lines, gas, coolant supply, coolant return.

Is the copper line inside of one of the coolant lines?

Yes three lines black hose has gas usually 100% Argon with right hand threads
Second line is red has the conductor inside of it with left hand threads for water
Third line blue is return line also left hand threads for water.

Dont run the torch without the pump on. Even if there is water in your lines. You wont have very many seconds to weld without a pump running. Most Lincoln TIG rigs have a switched AC socket in the back to hook a water cooler into if it doesnt have one already built in.
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:40 PM   #3429
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Anyone figure out a way to automate the water flow so that an idiot who always remembers to plug-in the water cooler but often forgets to turn it on can save himself the embarasment and expense of replacing the torch lead?
Remove the switch ... so that as soon as you plug in the cooler, the coolant starts circulating?
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:57 PM   #3430
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Well, Duh.
So simple it's brilliant.

Thanks.
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:42 PM   #3431
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Finally had a few minutes to try out my free to me lincoln tombstone welder, and the 7018 AC welding rod that larryboy gave me- mucho thanks to that, I tried welding with the old 7018 rod that was given to me with the welder, it's really difficult to start and keep an arc. With the 7018 AC, it came pretty easy.
And I see that it's much easier to weld thick metal than thin stuff with a stick welder (I knew that before, just confirmed it I guess).
So here's a picture:

Not sure if you can really see much, but let me hear the criticism. . . . top weld on the lower piece was my last weld on the thicker steel, it looks ok to me for the first 20 minutes of arc welding, but I need to figure out the pinholes I get once in a while- I assume it's inconsistent arc length? I've found that it's easier for me to weld backhand, which is the opposite of how I learned to oxy-acetylene weld. Probably because the filler rod is in the opposite hand.
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:47 PM   #3432
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Zac

For first welds they look good.

I would work on keeping a shorter arc. I see some spatter that is usually caused by too long of arc or dirty metal.

Slow down a little and don't mess with the thin stuff unless you have too.

Keep at it.
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:51 PM   #3433
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Yeah, 7018 is a drag arc type of rod...strike the arc by dragging, then you want to stay almost in contact while welding.
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:54 PM   #3434
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Originally Posted by David R View Post
For first welds they look good.

I would work on keeping a shorter arc. I see some spatter that is usually caused by too long of arc or dirty metal.

Slow down a little and don't mess with the thin stuff unless you have too.

Keep at it.
Thanks. It seems like once I get an arc started, I can almost keep the rod coating touching the metal to keep the arc the right length. I was noticing that as I was welding.

Any tips for the thin stuff if I do have to? Or is welding <1/8" with a stick just not done any more? I have some 3/32" rod, it's a lot harder to keep up with than the 1/8".
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:58 PM   #3435
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Yeah, 7018 is a drag arc type of rod...strike the arc by dragging, then you want to stay almost in contact while welding.
Looks like you confirmed my suspicion while I was posting. . . . thanks for the welding rod, we'll see if I just use the whole lot of it practicing or not. . .
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