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Old 04-18-2013, 08:34 AM   #3376
Dyno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Jeep & Bike Life View Post
I've been wanting to buy a TW200 ever since my dad owned one. Just wondering if anyone within reasonable driving distance of Atlanta, Ga had one they might be willing to part with?

You might want to check out post 4 in this thread, maybe pm the guy:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=878588
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:37 AM   #3377
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Originally Posted by palmstatecrawler View Post
Mine is a trail tech (tto) and works ok. Analog tachs are always going to be easier to read and arguably more accurate. I need to take a pic of it sometime but I've been busy with the 690 and sadly have been neglecting the tdub. Still need to finish tuning the tm28-1 so I can regear and stick that atv tire on it. Should be fun to do some exploring then since it's warming up quick here in sc.
Yah, I've only heard good things about the tto. TM28-1? Is that the pumper carb?
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:12 PM   #3378
The Jeep & Bike Life
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Thanks for the reply dyno. Just sent him a message, fingers crossed!
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Old 04-19-2013, 10:01 AM   #3379
Vincenthdfan
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OK, I just scanned through all 200 some odd pages of this TW thread with excitement...mostly scanning the pictures of everyone's TDubs.

One alarming comment I picked up partway through was stay away from the 87s because their CDIs are unique and failure prone.

Great...guess what I just bought? Yep, an 87. Its in good shape, has just under 7,000 miles on it and is a great bike for my wife to learn on.

However...now I worry about the problem waiting to happen with the CDI unit, most likely when were out in the middle of nowhere together.

As a preventative measure, I would go so far as to buy a newer model CDI unit and retrofit the bike to a more reliable system.

Does anyone out there know how involved this is? I'm sure some ones done it but the search function on here sucks and I cant seem to find it.

Can anyone point me in the correct direction please?

Thanks!
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:01 PM   #3380
seantx
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There is a write up on the TW forum on how to do this. If memory serves it is not a quick/easy mod. Probably worth it in the end though.

There is also a write up by a guy that fixed his 87 CDI - not replaced, fixed.
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:17 PM   #3381
Keithert
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I asked about this when I looked at a TW. I was told a new cdi was about $350. I'd pick up a spare before I'd convert.
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:44 PM   #3382
JagLite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vincenthdfan View Post
OK, I just scanned through all 200 some odd pages of this TW thread with excitement...mostly scanning the pictures of everyone's TDubs.

One alarming comment I picked up partway through was stay away from the 87s because their CDIs are unique and failure prone.

Great...guess what I just bought? Yep, an 87. Its in good shape, has just under 7,000 miles on it and is a great bike for my wife to learn on.

However...now I worry about the problem waiting to happen with the CDI unit, most likely when were out in the middle of nowhere together.

As a preventative measure, I would go so far as to buy a newer model CDI unit and retrofit the bike to a more reliable system.

Does anyone out there know how involved this is? I'm sure some ones done it but the search function on here sucks and I cant seem to find it.

Can anyone point me in the correct direction please?

Thanks!
I would point you in the tow strap direction.
Seriously.
There are many things that can stop an engine and it would be impossible to prevent them all.
If you really want to replace the CDI of course you can.
Or, you could sell that bike and get a newer one.
Or, you could just carry a 15' piece of 1" Dacron webbing or rope.
A tow rope can come in very handy in many situations.
Replacing the CDI system on a good running bike may be just throwing money away.

As for searching, use Google.
This is what I got immediately:
https://www.google.com/search?q=cdi+...w=1366&bih=624
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:13 PM   #3383
g-haad
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Xt200 / tw200

Hi, I hear tell that my '84 xt200 shares a carb with the early model tw200's, along with many more parts I'm sure. I am having a hellish time keeping her running right now, originally would only idle and bogged as soon as throttle was applied. Thought I resolved that by setting the float higher, revved up fine, swung a left out the drive and.... dead

Now I keep messing with the float level, it is about 1/8 " below the float bowl gasket level now but still no go. Are these carbs sensitive to float level? Anyone out there with some troubleshooting knowhow to help me out?

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Old 04-20-2013, 03:52 AM   #3384
Small's
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I would put the float level at factory spec. Pull out the brass cap over the idle/air mixture screw "on the bottom of the carb towards the front side" and back it out 2.5-ish turns and maybe take out and clean the idle jet and the main jet. Both of my tw's would hardly run until they were warmed up.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:06 AM   #3385
Dyno
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Yep, Like Small's said. Clean the air bleeds and jets. These carbs seem to corrode easily.
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:34 AM   #3386
Vincenthdfan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g-haad View Post
Hi, I hear tell that my '84 xt200 shares a carb with the early model tw200's, along with many more parts I'm sure. I am having a hellish time keeping her running right now, originally would only idle and bogged as soon as throttle was applied. Thought I resolved that by setting the float higher, revved up fine, swung a left out the drive and.... dead

Now I keep messing with the float level, it is about 1/8 " below the float bowl gasket level now but still no go. Are these carbs sensitive to float level? Anyone out there with some troubleshooting knowhow to help me out?

Is it an 87?

Symptoms you're describing are failed CDI symptoms...everyone defaults to the carb when indeed its a no spark condition that can be somewhat intermittent.
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:08 AM   #3387
g-haad
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Continued...

I've cleaned her up well, still the same. Any advice on how to isolate the CDI (I'm assuming that means the little silver regulator on the frame body) I have been blaming the carb for a while but I've just noted that the spark seems weak on some kicks and stronger on others.

That aside, the plug still seems dry so I want to ensure the float is not my problem. Here is a pic of the level at present.

Thanks for the help fellows.

g-haad screwed with this post 04-20-2013 at 10:45 AM
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:17 AM   #3388
Falcon86
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Anyone have a set of plastics sitting around they'd like to sell?

I've got an '01 TW that's all black, would like to bring it back to stock looking.
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Old 04-21-2013, 11:48 AM   #3389
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g-haad View Post
I've cleaned her up well, still the same. Any advice on how to isolate the CDI (I'm assuming that means the little silver regulator on the frame body) I have been blaming the carb for a while but I've just noted that the spark seems weak on some kicks and stronger on others.

That aside, the plug still seems dry so I want to ensure the float is not my problem. Here is a pic of the level at present.

Thanks for the help fellows.
Firstly, make sure the problem resides with a poor, or absent spark. If you don't already own one, I suggest you purchase a digital multimeter. The TW200 Service Manual specifies the correct resistance values for the spark plug cap, ignition coil, stator, and pickup coil. If all the resistance values are good, and you still don't have a good spark, the culprit is probably the CDI unit.

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Old 04-21-2013, 01:53 PM   #3390
g-haad
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Cdi?

OK, done messing with the fuel side. Moving on to CDI side as was suggested. Measured primary (1.5 ohms) and secondary is 11.6K ohms! Seems too high. Anyone know what the value should be? My older Yamaha manual says on the order of 5K ohms.

It seems to die out and/or not start now once it gets warm. all measurements were taken cold.

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