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Old 10-30-2012, 07:57 AM   #31
Ratman OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moparmanpete View Post
Very nice!

This week I'm going to try noodling a new rear tire on my scoot, like your 350. Had a valve stem rip out a few weeks ago, I was only doing 35 but what a wild ride! The bead unseated from the rim so I'm hoping it prevent that and the wild ride, and if I like it I'll do my XL next.

Pete
Mpmpete, I had slime in my rear tire on the CDR ride figuring that would seal leaks in case of??? Turns out the noodle which is supposed to be closed cell foam absorbed all the slime and came out of the tire about half size.

I think I'd rather have the slime than the noodle with the tubeless set up. It looked like the slime was affecting the silicone that I sealed the rim with just at the edges.....might have been ok, though.

....but I dug the silicone seal out and switched to Shoe Goo (or Seal All) for the new tire with slime. If I have any rim bead leaks, I push the tire away from the rim at those point and put silicone seal in the leak area and then blow it up till I don't have leaks.

I just spent three days in Death Valley. One of the riders that I was with wore thru a tube from running low air pressure. I again motored on by. Loving my Tubeless tires.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:54 AM   #32
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I rode my Sabre up to Lone pine over the weekend....it only amounted to a little under 500 miles, but that was enough to include most kinds of road surfaces.

My last shock alteration has taken 90% of the small bump hammering out of the rear end/wheel. It's no longer necessary to wince in anticipation when I see a bump coming.....wish I'd figured that change out 15 years ago.

From DV Oct 2012
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:19 AM   #33
Dessert Storm
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Excellent thread, Ratman; thanks for your trouble taken to explain and photo the process.

Have you ever seen this thread, from Goldwingfacts.com forum?

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...k-rebuild.html

Post #8 is interesting. If I've understood correctly, the poster has used thinners to dissolve in-situ the disintegrated bump-stop. Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Any reason this could not be done without dismantling the shock?

Have I understood correctly that you have ridden without problems with no bump-stop? If that is the case, I'm wondering if a flush with thinners then a recharge with new oil might see at least some 'dead' airover shocks restored to life without open heart surgery!

Be interested to hear your thoughts.

I should give also the poster on the 'wing forum credit for his work and the trouble taken to post. He is a guy called willwilly. If by any chance you read this, thank you dude.
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:16 PM   #34
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Reclaiming oil seals

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dessert Storm View Post
Excellent thread, Ratman; thanks for your trouble taken to explain and photo the process.
Yo, Desert Storm, glad that someone has a use for this old technology. Speaking of this Shock work I had a 1000 mile ride last week and decided that I had too much Bypass in the last shock change a few months ago.

So I'm building another shock that has less bypass....and while I was doing it I took a picture of the mod that I put in this shock. I'd estimate that I have 1/2 the amount of bypass in this new shock.
From Shock rebuild




I found a broken bottom out bump stop in the shock that I replaced with a piece of KYB bumper on the right.
From Shock rebuild


From Shock rebuild


....and while I'm working on the newer shock, and since you can't get new seals for these bike's shocks (V65 Sabres), I've been reclaiming the seals that come out of the shock. Here's a Video of how I sharpen that seal lip...very simple, actually. Works good on Fork seals as well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=P2AlMNeuk3w
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:23 PM   #35
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Spring change in the Sabre rear shock

I made a 3000 mile trip to Co and back to SD Ca this Summer using the latest bypass shock alteration. I was very pleased with the ride.

.....but I thought that for comfort (not speed in the corners) I'd like to try a lighter spring in the shock.

I looked around at other moto spring. The stock V65 Sabre spring is 7 coils of a .506" wire spring about 7" long....non progressive wound

I looked at the ST1100 rear shock spring and found that to be about 10 coils of a .430" spring about 10" long....progressive wound. I thought that that might work.

I found some spring constant calc software on the net. Some ciphering came up with that I should cut that spring down to an 8.75" length. I cut it down on the progressive wound end and heated and flattened that end, then ground it to make a square end to the spring.

I didn't have much faith in the numbers, but what you going to do? You have to try it to see how it works on the bike.

Anyway I put it on the bike. Surprisingly, the spring length gave the proper preload and ride height to the bike, and softened up the last of the harshness that I'd been complaining about.

The upshot of all this is...that if you have a bike that is too harsh on paved roads....It needs some bypass in the shock at the neutral ride height, and it needs a longer, softer spring to finish off a nice ride improvement.

I wish I had tried just the spring change before the internal valve bypass so that I know how it would ride with just the Spring alteration. Maybe I'll get a chance to do that one day.
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Old 12-30-2013, 12:25 PM   #36
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Dustin's results

Dustin messaged me about a year ago with some shock rebuilding questions....and then a year later after running the bike for a few months. I thought posting his results might encourage some others to try this shock repair.

Quote:
Re: Shock Rebuild questions
dustin033 asked
>I found your shock rebuild page yesterday just when I needed it. I got my '85 VF500F out and the shock was squirting out oil. I had no idea how to get it apart. Well, I got it apart and there was chunks everywhere. I'm planning on replacing the seal and putting it back together, but I have a few questions.
1. It has an NOK BR1682E seal in it. Is that stock?

I don't know as I've never worked on a 500F's shock.

2. In the part that you drill and tap, there is an o-ring in there. Mine was torn. I tried an SAE one that I had, but it seemed loose when I put it back on the shaft. Where should this piece be on the shaft? Does it move around or stay in the groove on the shaft? The o-ring I used looked almost identical to what was left of the one in there, but I don't want to put it back together and problems just because of this.

Harbor Freight has an assortment of Metric orings, you may find one there....or mcmaster.com has them. I don't know the size.

>3. Is there a reason you drill & tap it 10 times? Wouldn't a couple be sufficient?

Those ten screws that I tap hold the shock together when the bike/shock tops out. I have had my shock come apart once when I topped out down in Baja. That part on a 500f may not be thick enough to tap for screws. It's marginal on a VF750F... You may have to weld it back together.

>4. Is there a particular type of oil I should use? I know there are different weights of shock oil, but I have heard of people using ATF I think. Is that ok?

I use ATV often because it's inexpensive.

>5. Would mine be one that holds 13 ounces?

Honestly I don't know. If it's the same diameter as a 750cc then yes 13 or so. I've run my V65 Sabre (that takes 16 ozs) with a little as 10 ozs and it worked all right. If you suspect that your 500 is smaller than a 700 then put an an oz less in....would be my suggestion. Good luck

Let me know what you find out. I'll add it to the shock thread, or you can put an entre on the ADV shock thread.

Thanks for all the help,
Dustin
[/QUOTE]

And a year later after some riding Duston say.........

Quote:
Originally Posted by dustin033
I didn't get a whole lot of riding in this year, but it has survived what I did get in. It feels fine, and I haven't noticed any leaks.

Thanks again!
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