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Old 04-19-2013, 04:05 PM   #1
Nailhead OP
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Had any Luck with Tyre Pliers?

I bought these from an inmate some time back because they looked like a good idea:



I'm having misgivings about that notion: I've been cranking on them for the last 45 minutes at various points around the back wheel off the 990 and have accomplished nothing other than breaking a sweat, scarring the tire, and actually heating up the tool. I'm one post away from consigning these to the hopper, so has anyone used these successfully, and if so, what were your methods?

No emergency here-- I'm just familiarizing myself with various tire-changing tools in my basement.
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:29 PM   #2
Motomedic
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No doubt Jeremy's words (from your sig line) were running through your head when you started the process....

On my 950, I machined off one of the "safety beads" on the inside of the rim, and it's still a PITA to do in the field. I have the Motion Pro BeadPro tools, and they won't do it. I simply use the sidestand.

And yes, you can use the sidestand of your bike WHILE it's on the centerstand with the rear wheel off. Just make sure you secure the centerstand in it's deployed position with a strap.
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:31 PM   #3
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No, don't know if you've seen it, but there's a brief demo at 2:14 here:


Looks interesting, but the jaws seem small, compared to the car & truck versions - they comment in the beginning about making sure the jaws press on the bead, not the sidewall or tire damage can result.
Good luck!
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HapHazard View Post
they comment in the beginning about making sure the jaws press on the bead, not the sidewall or tire damage can result.
Good luck!
I'll bet the inside edge of the jaws need to be 1/8 to no more than 1/4 of an inch from the edge of the rim.
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:25 PM   #5
griffo1962
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a lot of guys down here use them, never heard any of them say this.......
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:39 PM   #6
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I tried repeatedly to hold the jaws on the bead, but they just take the path of least resistance & end up halfway up the sidewall.

They look like such a great idea. What a disappointment. I'm glad I tried them out before realizing they didn't work when I really needed them.
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:46 PM   #7
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Does that thing mount on the inside of the rim during use?
Is it common or helpful to put a spacer between the rim & device to keep it from creeping onto the sidewall?
The concept of the device seems good, but sounds like in practice may not be so great.
I've used the side stand technique on my GS, but it's not my method of choice.
A beer and a laugh can ease the aggravation, ....
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Old 04-19-2013, 06:52 PM   #8
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The car & truck versions seem to use a combination "squeeze and push" action that presses down on the side wall and pushes down the bead simultaneously. It's used on one bead at a time. The bike version seems to just work like a large C-clamp with a better jaw arrangement but it squeezes both beads.

However when I've used a c-clamp to break beads, I've always had to use a piece of wood to put half the clamp on the rim because just squeezing both beads never worked for me, so I can see why Nailhead isn't having much luck.

Why wouldn't the truck version (or extended car version) work (better) on a bike tire than the bike version?
I guess the bike version is "packable", but so's a c-clamp (which is also more KLR-friendly (cheaper).

I really do like the car & truck versions (and Australia), though...
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Old 04-20-2013, 10:15 AM   #9
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ya, if you get a tough one a backing plate helps. heres my clamp & plate setup...

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Old 04-20-2013, 11:12 AM   #10
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That's kind of the idea I'm toying with: some sort of retrofit to increase the effectiveness of those narrow jaws.
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:36 PM   #11
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I use the automotive version regularly and they're great. I don't see the motorcycle version being that great though with no way to force it down into the bead.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailhead View Post
I bought these from an inmate some time back because they looked like a good idea:



I'm having misgivings about that notion: I've been cranking on them for the last 45 minutes at various points around the back wheel off the 990 and have accomplished nothing other than breaking a sweat, scarring the tire, and actually heating up the tool. I'm one post away from consigning these to the hopper, so has anyone used these successfully, and if so, what were your methods?

No emergency here-- I'm just familiarizing myself with various tire-changing tools in my basement.
Are you sliding them on from the outside of the tire?
I'm asking because you're saying that you're scarring your tire...
Try slidling them on from the inside (rim side), that way it will slide into the bead and do its job. Slide it on like the C-clamp on the pic:



I hope I'm understanding your problem... They just seem like they would work great.
I'm curious to see/hear what you figured out now.
Good luck,

Eric.
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Old 04-21-2013, 10:07 AM   #13
DC2wheels
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Been using this for a few years. Works on tires up to 160 wide.

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Old 04-22-2013, 06:05 PM   #14
Nailhead OP
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I have only used them from the inside of the rim per the instructions. Maybe a spacer block of some sort would be a solution.

I think RVdan's post pretty much encpsulates it-- bad design.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:57 PM   #15
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Keep in mind that 950/990 tires have a safety bead on the inside of the rim. Many people have 3-5" of the safety bead ground off to ease trail side repairs.
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