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Old 04-12-2013, 08:20 AM   #19501
mung
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Blue Ribbon Coalition[BRC] is also a very active group. Also, if anybody is interested in trials there is a Utah club meet on 4-20 at Jordan River ORV Park which is in the SLC area by the 215 north loop.Fun to watch and a challenge to ride.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:52 AM   #19502
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Thanks guys!
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Old 04-12-2013, 05:15 PM   #19503
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Originally Posted by Slickhorn View Post

Looks good. Especially the new seat and tank bag. Enjoy your ride.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:19 PM   #19504
Flashmo
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Technical question:

Being new to Utah, once I establish my legal residency I assume that I will be referred to a Utahn.

How long do you have to be in state before you become a full on Utard?

Possible mitigating factors...

1. From Idaho, so I know what a Utard is...outside of Utah...

2. Living on the Wasatch Back...yup...right in it's rear...somewhere between Soldier Hollow and Homestead (there was no smog inversion here this winter ).

3. If I keep my MC licensed in another state, can I just claim that I am only on extended vacation and keep the 'Tard clock from starting its count down? Driving to Malad every couple weeks for beer and lottery tickets counts for residency...right?

4. I drive like a grandma, so if you are stuck in a line of cars...you are probably behind me.

5. I don't know the secret handshake...

6. By posing this question...am I already a 'tard?
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:49 AM   #19505
pluric
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You just lowered the our state IQ coming from Idaho. Guess you will fit right in.
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:45 AM   #19506
The Walrus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashmo View Post
Technical question:

Being new to Utah, once I establish my legal residency I assume that I will be referred to a Utahn.

How long do you have to be in state before you become a full on Utard?

Possible mitigating factors...

1. From Idaho, so I know what a Utard is...outside of Utah...

2. Living on the Wasatch Back...yup...right in it's rear...somewhere between Soldier Hollow and Homestead (there was no smog inversion here this winter ).

3. If I keep my MC licensed in another state, can I just claim that I am only on extended vacation and keep the 'Tard clock from starting its count down? Driving to Malad every couple weeks for beer and lottery tickets counts for residency...right?

4. I drive like a grandma, so if you are stuck in a line of cars...you are probably behind me.

5. I don't know the secret handshake...

6. By posing this question...am I already a 'tard?


You'll need to buy either a 10 year old KLR (no, the DL doesn't count) or a KTM and drink the koolaid........
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:55 PM   #19507
Flashmo
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Originally Posted by pluric View Post
You just lowered the our state IQ coming from Idaho. Guess you will fit right in.
I was kinda hoping to gloss over that fact...
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:00 PM   #19508
dozer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashmo View Post
Technical question:

If I keep my MC licensed in another state, can I just claim that I am only on extended vacation and keep the 'Tard clock from starting its count down? Driving to Malad every couple weeks for beer, Black Label and lottery tickets counts for residency...right?
Fixed

How ya been Flashmo, are you still building Fly Rods?
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:42 PM   #19509
Flashmo
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Originally Posted by dozer View Post
Fixed

How ya been Flashmo, are you still building Fly Rods?
Still at it...just a change of scenery.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:52 PM   #19510
dieselcruiserhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mung View Post
Before you spend on a revalve I would try stiffer springs and lighter oil[2.5 wt. at 130 mm from top]. Also ,I do not know if your year of fork has a third[middle] bushing but if it does than take it out and it will work smoother in the choppy stuff.Also if you need to rebuild or reseal your forks consider putting in KTMs hard parts seal and bushing kit which has slippery seals,wipers and bushings.The whole kit is 90 bucks.It is what is stock on 13 models.
Mung,
not sure if you remember this but I finally got around to the fork oil and seal change. PO claimed that the forks were recently serviced, pretty much no way that could be true. clips keeping fork seals in were rusty, OEM KTM seals likely from new, and the oil was molasses-like and full of contaminants. So basically oil was completely toast. All changed up and feeling great and nice and soft and plush. Installed SFK seals with Judy Butter (a mountain bike fork lube specifically designed for seals). It also wasn't bottoming out because it turned out I have either .46 or .48 (my guess is .48) springs in there already from the PO. Just the poor small bump compliance because the oil was shot. So very basic, excited to see how it works out. I also did 120mm oil level and 5 weight mostly because this is what I had lying around, but took your advice sorta / close to it...
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:40 AM   #19511
mung
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Glad it sorta worked.KTM usually has very high quality fork oil and it takes a long time for it to get that bad.Do not remember the year of your bike but if it is pre 08 when you change the oil again[soon] you might want to take out the 3rd bushing which is the aluminum sleeve that is about 2 inches around and 7 inches long in the middle of the fork.Much better bump compliance.If the fork oil was that bad the shock oil for sure needs help.Have you serviced the shock yet? Mark from Idaho coming to Utah this weekend to raise the IQ average! [for Pluric]
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:00 PM   #19512
dieselcruiserhead
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thx mung and right on.. Bike is a 2010. Rear shock was completely serviced in the fall, it has a racetech nitrogen cartridge in it instead of the stock valving system. Rear feels awesome right now and hasn't needed any work other than fresh nitrogen and fluid...

The only issue I'm "feeling" right now (and I remember you had some good comments about this) is it appears to be about .48 or .46 springs up front, and then the PDS-4 in the rear which is a 8.5kg to 11. The rear spring came from the back of my RFS bike and felt great on this bike, possibly even under-sprung on underneath my 235 lbs.

When I switched it over to the 2010 I was aware of the leverage ratio change and the same spring feels much stiffer. It actually feels pretty good, and I'm happy with it, but it also feels like it is driving too much into the front suspension. Some of it might be me, some of it might be getting used to the new style frame with different front steering handling (and I really like the precision of the handling), and some might even be setting the rear sag lower. So that's what I've done as of right now as the next step, basically drop the rear sag in the rear to see what happens. I'm also considering going to stiffer front springs like a .50 or .52 possibly to see if that helps, and/or finally going to a lighter spring in the rear. I remember you were saying the PDS-4 was good under your weight on the later bikes?

thanks
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:03 PM   #19513
Dread Pendragon
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Originally Posted by warp9man View Post
Had a rough weekend. The plan was to ride out to wendover via lucin, all was good until we tried to cross the flats just before wendover. The road looked dry and even had sections where sand was blowing across the road. Obviously there were sections of wet too. But overrall it didnt go as planned and we spent the night trying to dig ourselevs out of the mess I got us into. 2 burnt clutches, 2 broken low front fenders and mud that was like playdough.
I know exactly where you were. We hit it after a little rain. Immediately it was like we were sliding across a few inches of soft butter. The guy in front of me had on new Dunlop 606s and when I saw him suddenly with no control I knew we were in trouble.

My brother barely missed hitting me from behind. Other guys piled up. One broken rib, one cracked, and a handful of broken things on bikes. The guy on the green KLR said he bent his frame.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....33&postcount=2

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Old 04-17-2013, 02:25 PM   #19514
mung
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If it is 235 ready to ride then the pds 4 will give you about the right bike sag[115-120 mm] and rider sag[135-140mm]with about 6-8 mm of preload. I had .52 in my dunes bike but it is unridable anywhere else it is so stiff.Before I would try stiffer springs in front I would put the fork tubes all the way down to the top of the fork cap to raise the front end a little.Then try using 2.5 wt. fork oil at 130mm from the top.That way you get plusher action on the little stuff and even with the lighter fork oil it will stiffen up more toward the end of the travel.Then try going to my lower sag numbers[120mm and 140mm].The pds 4 has plenty of stiffness to keep it from bottoming.
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Old 04-20-2013, 03:42 PM   #19515
GISkev
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Ride next Fri/Sat/Sun

Ryman and I are heading out for a Fri/Sat/Sun ride, camping off the bikes... He'll be on his 690 and I on the 520... No solid route yet, but maybe through the swell and down through the cynlnds maze district to beef basin and up through Lockhart basin, then back through dubinky to the swell again... not quite sure...

Let's ride bitches!
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