the DR650 thread

oops, wrong thread altogether... nevermind.

Thanks!

I caught yer post there.

You're quick!

I would go to index thread and start reading. It's all there and very well layed out.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14469062&postcount=32

sorry,
but thats funny

Relax, unless you ride the DR like a 125cc motocrosser, you'll never hurt it.

Same thing. All you'll ever need to know about the NSU.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14659217&postcount=15

Because (one of the most reused photos on the internet):

I dunno, still using my stock vacuum petcock at 45,314 miles. There is just no way that I'm going to remember to turn the petcock off every time I park the bike for the night.

It's almost summer here, there's nothing more important.

MBD, that just about covers it.

Thanks guys!

I'll actually have to be conscious of my rpms. All my rides so far were 250cc or less and flogging has become S.O.P. for me.

Guys,

I just finished rebuilding the top end of my '98 DR650, and I have this weird carb/jetting(?) issue I can't seem to find an explanation for: when the bike is warmed up, after idling for more than a minute, for example when waiting at a stop light the engine has an hesitation or sometimes just stalls as I try to take off or even blip the throttle in neutral. Sounds to me like running too rich at idle (am I right?). It happens ONLY if the bike idled for some amount of time, like a few minutes. It doesn't happen if it only idled for a few seconds.

I am using the stock BST40 carb with stock components, here is a list of the components I recently replaced (all with brand new stock, OEM parts):
- ALL orings
- pilot jet
- needle jet
- jet needle (6F19)
- plastic spacer under the needle E-ring
- diaphragm
- throttle valve (slide)
- throttle valve guide (with equiv. KTM part, as Suzuki doesn't seem to sell this separately)
- pilot screw (currently set to 1.5 turns out)
- fuel enrichener ("choke") plunger

The OEM Mikuni #140 main jet is installed ( I did not replace this one) and also I have a new OEM pilot air jet but I wasn't able to get the current one unscrewed from the carb body, it's stuck and seems to just break instead of coming out.
The needle E-ring is installed in the 3rd (standard) position.
I'm using a GSXR 40F0 pipe, with the stock exhaust header, and stock un-cut airbox, the snorkel is also installed. The air filter is a K&N, just cleaned and re-oiled.


Given the carb is clean and float height adjusted properly, what could cause this rich running at idle? I mean in the stock form, the DR650 is known to run a little bit lean. What strikes me is that even with my bone-stock configuration (apart from the exhaust) I have a rich condition and don't understand why... I'm running out of ideas... any help or suggestions would be highly appreciated.

LE. if it matters, we can't get pure gasoline here in Europe. All gas we can get has at least 5% ethanol.

I had a similar issue with my BST40 that I chased unsuccessfully by leaning off the pilot. Fixed it with an FCR. Upon subsequent reflection, I decided it may have been a fuel enrichener aka choke problem. Maybe?

I was thinking about the enrichener as well, that's why I replaced the plunger.
Another thing I omitted to say is I'm using the IMS tank with the locking gas cap. Often when I take off the cap, I can hear the hissing sound and see the tank collapse a little bit, as the pressure is released. Maybe this pressure that builds up in the tank can affect the mixture as well?

Is there any down side to completely removing the neutral switch? I have ridden dirt bikes my whole life and dont need a switch to tell me its in gear or not.

Does anybody know what size of bolts the Acerbis handguards use to clamp on to the handlebars? I apparently lost all four of the bolts and I need to replace them before my ride this weekend.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

That's a good question.

Down side? Not really, I've ridden road bikes and dirt bikes for years without them and though each transmission has its own quirks you quickly learn the feel of it snicking into neutral and then don't even think about it as long as you ride that particular bike. I think neutral lights are more comforting to beginner rider and just a habit for most long term riders.

If you do, make sure you also remove the plunger and spring behind the switch.
Check out this article by Elden Carl
http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/ti_archive/tinov06.html

It's an old article, but the bike hasn't changed much and he carries a little more credibility then I do.

Is there a requirement to have a neutral light for a bike to be street legal?

If you were to sell it or change states, a close inspection by the DMV/MVD/RMV may reveal its absence.

The neutral switch he is referring to is the neutral safety switch, and has no effect on the indicator light. This switch is only to prohibit the bike from starting if it is in gear and the clutch safety switch is not engaged.

Worth checking out if you plan on selling the bike or letting others ride it. Of course modifying the clutch switch, side stand switch, non stock brake lights, etc might also be a problem.