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Old 04-26-2013, 07:01 AM   #76126
TDY
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Charging system question

I recently ran my battery down with electric vest and grip heaters set too high on a cold day so I installed an LED voltage monitor to keep me from making the same mistake again. The battery charged up fine with my battery tender and seems not to have suffered any damage. The LED monitor glows green when the charging voltage is greater than 13.2V but, curiously it changes to yellow indicating less than 13.2 when I rev the engine above idle then returns to green when the RPM returns to idle. I verified this voltage drop measured at the battery using a real volt meter. I then discovered that if I turn on my grip heaters the voltage goes up and turns the LED green and it stays green at all revs.

This all seems backwards to me. Could someone please verify if it's normal to have a load such as the grip heaters raise the voltage or explain to me the problem if it's not behaving normally. I did the alternator checks for continuity and AC output and it checks out fine.

In case it matters, I have a 60Cx GPS running off the battery and I had the controller for my vest plugged in but not turned on and the vest was not plugged in during my last test ride. The lights are all stock but the headlight is running through a relay to reduce voltage loss.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:57 AM   #76127
8gv
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Fool tap...

I want to drain my tank and put in fresh gas.

The tap doesn't want to dispense while the bike isn't running.

Is that a vacuum line I see attached to the back of the tap?

Using a hand vacuum pump I appied vacuum.

No joy.

Is pressure used here rather than vacuum?

Do I need to open the tap and de-goo it?

Is there really no inline filter here or is it contained in the tap?

Thank you sir, may I have another...
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:15 AM   #76128
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I want to drain my tank and put in fresh gas.

The tap doesn't want to dispense while the bike isn't running.

Is that a vacuum line I see attached to the back of the tap?

Yes.

Using a hand vacuum pump I appied vacuum.

No joy.

Is pressure used here rather than vacuum?

No.

Do I need to open the tap and de-goo it?

Maybe. Have you tried the Prime position?

Is there really no inline filter here or is it contained in the tap?

There is a screen in the tank as well as one in the stock carb inlet.

Thank you sir, may I have another...
Answered in yellow above.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:35 AM   #76129
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Steve View Post
Answered in yellow above.
Thanks.
I tried Prime and got a dribble. A roaring torrent is required by my level of patience. Is the screen in the tank located at the top of the fuel tubes?
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:48 AM   #76130
Lil' Steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Thanks.
I tried Prime and got a dribble. A roaring torrent is required by my level of patience. Is the screen in the tank located at the top of the fuel tubes?

Yes, there should be a screen on both tubes. You can take it apart and clean it, but a wise man said not long ago...
but if you do, Yamaha Raptor tap about $20, that's what I use.

The Yamaha tap bolts right on and isnt vacuum operated, you can turn it to off unlike the stock Suzuki tap.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:57 AM   #76131
Bronco638
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Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump!
Your aftermarket clutch lever may not fit as precisely as the Suzuki part. In the picture it appears that the shoulder of the lever pivot bolt is not pulled down into the lever. If that's the case it would result in a lot of free play.
I'm using the stock lever(s).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee
Both of ours line up perfectly.

Thanks M.

Not only do I have that small gap, I can't seem to get rid of it. The clutch travel is very short; that is, from unengaged to fullly engaged seems to happen very quickly. I have the clutch arm positioned properly (I think) and the cable is new.

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Old 04-26-2013, 10:01 AM   #76132
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Steve View Post
Yes, there should be a screen on both tubes. You can take it apart and clean it, but a wise man said not long ago...
but if you do, Yamaha Raptor tap about $20, that's what I use.

The Yamaha tap bolts right on and isnt vacuum operated, you can turn it to off unlike the stock Suzuki tap.
Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01 it comes with a gasket, so don't order one.

If you go that route, don't forget to plug the vacuum line back to the carb.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:35 AM   #76133
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Thanks.
I tried Prime and got a dribble. A roaring torrent is required by my level of patience. Is the screen in the tank located at the top of the fuel tubes?
Remove the tank from the bike. Dump it upside down. If you remove the stock petcock there is a filter on the petcock internally. Also, check the tiny little white plastic filter that sits in the metal fuel inlet tube going into the Carb. It's a bit hard to pry out ... go easy.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:39 AM   #76134
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
It's a bit hard to pry out ... go easy.
Why, so he can throw it out in good condition?

I advocate getting rid of it and installing an inline filter.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:44 AM   #76135
ER70S-2
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Fuel filter, partially removed.


Stock petcock on the left. (Acerbis 5.3 on the right)
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:59 AM   #76136
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01 it comes with a gasket, so don't order one.

If you go that route, don't forget to plug the vacuum line back to the carb.
So...
Does the Yamaha tap have a reserve?

Thanks for the replies guys!
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:12 PM   #76137
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDY View Post
I recently ran my battery down with electric vest and grip heaters set too high on a cold day so I installed an LED voltage monitor to keep me from making the same mistake again. The battery charged up fine with my battery tender and seems not to have suffered any damage. The LED monitor glows green when the charging voltage is greater than 13.2V but, curiously it changes to yellow indicating less than 13.2 when I rev the engine above idle then returns to green when the RPM returns to idle. I verified this voltage drop measured at the battery using a real volt meter. I then discovered that if I turn on my grip heaters the voltage goes up and turns the LED green and it stays green at all revs.

This all seems backwards to me. Could someone please verify if it's normal to have a load such as the grip heaters raise the voltage or explain to me the problem if it's not behaving normally. I did the alternator checks for continuity and AC output and it checks out fine.

In case it matters, I have a 60Cx GPS running off the battery and I had the controller for my vest plugged in but not turned on and the vest was not plugged in during my last test ride. The lights are all stock but the headlight is running through a relay to reduce voltage loss.
I would go out for a long ride and watch that LED as you ride along. As long as it's green about half the time I wouldn't worry about it. Mine fluctuates back and forth from green to orange constantly (I forget what voltages those are supposed to indicate). It generally does not stay constant for more than 15 or 20 seconds, no matter low beam/high beam, electric vest/no vest, etc.

I watched it until it drove me crazy trying to figure it out, now I pretty much ignore it and try to watch the road, instead!

..........shu
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:13 PM   #76138
Tex76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
So...
Does the Yamaha tap have a reserve?

Thanks for the replies guys!
Looks like go/no go are your only options there lol.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:25 PM   #76139
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I would go out for a long ride and watch that LED as you ride along. As long as it's green about half the time I wouldn't worry about it. Mine fluctuates back and forth from green to orange constantly (I forget what voltages those are supposed to indicate). It generally does not stay constant for more than 15 or 20 seconds, no matter low beam/high beam, electric vest/no vest, etc.

I watched it until it drove me crazy trying to figure it out, now I pretty much ignore it and try to watch the road, instead!

..........shu
I believe the shifting voltage reading is simply the Regulator/Rectifier doing it's job. It will react to load and RPM and battery condition. At higher RPM it may adjust to a lower voltage so as not to Cook the battery. Once a certain voltage level is reached at the battery, Reg/Rect will lower output. Add or subtract load, and all that changes.

The thing to do would be to take a ride using elec. vest and grips at 100%, high beam. Make it a longer ride, then note changes over time as battery loses ground to the too big load.

I run an HID headlight bulb to help mitigate the DR's measly charging output (this saves 20 Watts over stock H4 55 watt light). On very cold riding days, I switch off headlight to maintain a full charge at the Battery. At night I run my Elec. Jacket at about 75% and Grips on LOW. Not ideal but there it is. I've ridden 10 hours like this ... bike still started up fine. (I don't have a voltage LED monitor) In daytime running (10 hour days) with headlight OFF I can run all electrics at 100% and have NO loss in Battery voltage, no starting issues at all. YMMV, IMHO.
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:00 PM   #76140
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I believe the shifting voltage reading is simply the Regulator/Rectifier doing it's job. It will react to load and RPM and battery condition. At higher RPM it may adjust to a lower voltage so as not to Cook the battery. Once a certain voltage level is reached at the battery, Reg/Rect will lower output. Add or subtract load, and all that changes.
Nope, it doesn't work that way. The voltage regulator is a very simple shunt device. When the voltage goes above a certain threshold the excess current is bled off to ground. There is no sensing of load or RPM.

It works very much like a spillway on a dam. The water can only get so high then pours over the edge.
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