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Old 04-26-2013, 10:01 AM   #76141
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Steve View Post
Yes, there should be a screen on both tubes. You can take it apart and clean it, but a wise man said not long ago...
but if you do, Yamaha Raptor tap about $20, that's what I use.

The Yamaha tap bolts right on and isnt vacuum operated, you can turn it to off unlike the stock Suzuki tap.
Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01 it comes with a gasket, so don't order one.

If you go that route, don't forget to plug the vacuum line back to the carb.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:35 AM   #76142
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Thanks.
I tried Prime and got a dribble. A roaring torrent is required by my level of patience. Is the screen in the tank located at the top of the fuel tubes?
Remove the tank from the bike. Dump it upside down. If you remove the stock petcock there is a filter on the petcock internally. Also, check the tiny little white plastic filter that sits in the metal fuel inlet tube going into the Carb. It's a bit hard to pry out ... go easy.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:39 AM   #76143
Rusty Rocket
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
It's a bit hard to pry out ... go easy.
Why, so he can throw it out in good condition?

I advocate getting rid of it and installing an inline filter.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:44 AM   #76144
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Fuel filter, partially removed.


Stock petcock on the left. (Acerbis 5.3 on the right)
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:59 AM   #76145
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Rocket View Post
Yamaha part # 5LP-24500-01 it comes with a gasket, so don't order one.

If you go that route, don't forget to plug the vacuum line back to the carb.
So...
Does the Yamaha tap have a reserve?

Thanks for the replies guys!
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:12 PM   #76146
shu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDY View Post
I recently ran my battery down with electric vest and grip heaters set too high on a cold day so I installed an LED voltage monitor to keep me from making the same mistake again. The battery charged up fine with my battery tender and seems not to have suffered any damage. The LED monitor glows green when the charging voltage is greater than 13.2V but, curiously it changes to yellow indicating less than 13.2 when I rev the engine above idle then returns to green when the RPM returns to idle. I verified this voltage drop measured at the battery using a real volt meter. I then discovered that if I turn on my grip heaters the voltage goes up and turns the LED green and it stays green at all revs.

This all seems backwards to me. Could someone please verify if it's normal to have a load such as the grip heaters raise the voltage or explain to me the problem if it's not behaving normally. I did the alternator checks for continuity and AC output and it checks out fine.

In case it matters, I have a 60Cx GPS running off the battery and I had the controller for my vest plugged in but not turned on and the vest was not plugged in during my last test ride. The lights are all stock but the headlight is running through a relay to reduce voltage loss.
I would go out for a long ride and watch that LED as you ride along. As long as it's green about half the time I wouldn't worry about it. Mine fluctuates back and forth from green to orange constantly (I forget what voltages those are supposed to indicate). It generally does not stay constant for more than 15 or 20 seconds, no matter low beam/high beam, electric vest/no vest, etc.

I watched it until it drove me crazy trying to figure it out, now I pretty much ignore it and try to watch the road, instead!

..........shu
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:13 PM   #76147
Tex76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
So...
Does the Yamaha tap have a reserve?

Thanks for the replies guys!
Looks like go/no go are your only options there lol.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:25 PM   #76148
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shu View Post
I would go out for a long ride and watch that LED as you ride along. As long as it's green about half the time I wouldn't worry about it. Mine fluctuates back and forth from green to orange constantly (I forget what voltages those are supposed to indicate). It generally does not stay constant for more than 15 or 20 seconds, no matter low beam/high beam, electric vest/no vest, etc.

I watched it until it drove me crazy trying to figure it out, now I pretty much ignore it and try to watch the road, instead!

..........shu
I believe the shifting voltage reading is simply the Regulator/Rectifier doing it's job. It will react to load and RPM and battery condition. At higher RPM it may adjust to a lower voltage so as not to Cook the battery. Once a certain voltage level is reached at the battery, Reg/Rect will lower output. Add or subtract load, and all that changes.

The thing to do would be to take a ride using elec. vest and grips at 100%, high beam. Make it a longer ride, then note changes over time as battery loses ground to the too big load.

I run an HID headlight bulb to help mitigate the DR's measly charging output (this saves 20 Watts over stock H4 55 watt light). On very cold riding days, I switch off headlight to maintain a full charge at the Battery. At night I run my Elec. Jacket at about 75% and Grips on LOW. Not ideal but there it is. I've ridden 10 hours like this ... bike still started up fine. (I don't have a voltage LED monitor) In daytime running (10 hour days) with headlight OFF I can run all electrics at 100% and have NO loss in Battery voltage, no starting issues at all. YMMV, IMHO.
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:00 PM   #76149
procycle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I believe the shifting voltage reading is simply the Regulator/Rectifier doing it's job. It will react to load and RPM and battery condition. At higher RPM it may adjust to a lower voltage so as not to Cook the battery. Once a certain voltage level is reached at the battery, Reg/Rect will lower output. Add or subtract load, and all that changes.
Nope, it doesn't work that way. The voltage regulator is a very simple shunt device. When the voltage goes above a certain threshold the excess current is bled off to ground. There is no sensing of load or RPM.

It works very much like a spillway on a dam. The water can only get so high then pours over the edge.
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:38 PM   #76150
The Breeze
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Vibes.....especially in the bars

I'm sure most of you know this....but for those that don't........

My DR currently has a little over 21k miles on it. Seems like for the past 6 months or so, the vibration has become terrible. I have carpal tunnel syndrome...so my wrists are very sensitive to vibration.

In any event, I tried to figure out what caused the vibes to get so bad on my bike. I rebuilt the carb, re-torqued all of the motor mount bolts (some were a little loose), double checked the chain alignment, put on new rubber and balanced the tires (front and rear). All of which improved the situation...but the bike was still vibey.

Then, for general maintenance purposes, I decided it was time to clean/re-grease all of the bearings. When I took off the rear wheel......the cush drive and all of the cush drive rubber inserts fell out onto the ground

So, after finishing up the bearing job, I INSTALLED NEW CUSH DRIVE RUBBER INSERTS. The improvement was incredible!!! Major improvement/reduction in vibration

Long story short if you're noticing more vibration than normal.....the cush drive rubbers may need replacement
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:57 PM   #76151
Rusty Rocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
So...
Does the Yamaha tap have a reserve?

Thanks for the replies guys!
Yes
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..1972 Penton Six-Days ..1971 Suzuki TS185.. 2005 KTM 400exc
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Old 04-26-2013, 02:53 PM   #76152
UberKul
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Breeze View Post
I'm sure most of you know this....but for those that don't........

So, after finishing up the bearing job, I INSTALLED NEW CUSH DRIVE RUBBER INSERTS. The improvement was incredible!!! Major improvement/reduction in vibration

Long story short if you're noticing more vibration than normal.....the cush drive rubbers may need replacement
Thanks for the reminder. Does anyone know if there is a tolerance for the cush rubbers? Mine do fall out on their own during wheel changes but not sloppy loose.
This is where I get slammed for not using search.
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:18 PM   #76153
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UberKul View Post
This is where I get slammed for not using search.
If everyone used search, my post count would be about 17.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UberKul View Post
Thanks for the reminder. Does anyone know if there is a tolerance for the cush rubbers? Mine do fall out on their own during wheel changes but not sloppy loose.
15k has been mentioned before. Mine were hard as cement by 15k miles. I have the third set ready to go in next time the wheel is off, I'm at 45,xxx. Some of mine fall out when I remove the wheel too.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:08 PM   #76154
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Breeze View Post
I'm sure most of you know this....but for those that don't........

My DR currently has a little over 21k miles on it. Seems like for the past 6 months or so, the vibration has become terrible. I have carpal tunnel syndrome...so my wrists are very sensitive to vibration.

In any event, I tried to figure out what caused the vibes to get so bad on my bike. I rebuilt the carb, re-torqued all of the motor mount bolts (some were a little loose), double checked the chain alignment, put on new rubber and balanced the tires (front and rear). All of which improved the situation...but the bike was still vibey.

Then, for general maintenance purposes, I decided it was time to clean/re-grease all of the bearings. When I took off the rear wheel......the cush drive and all of the cush drive rubber inserts fell out onto the ground

So, after finishing up the bearing job, I INSTALLED NEW CUSH DRIVE RUBBER INSERTS. The improvement was incredible!!! Major improvement/reduction in vibration

Long story short if you're noticing more vibration than normal.....the cush drive rubbers may need replacement
Thanks for the reminder,mine are due at 27,000 miles.If There is any play at all when you grab the sprocket and try to move it back and forth in the hub then they're shot
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:28 PM   #76155
acesandeights
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
...
15k has been mentioned before. Mine were hard as cement by 15k miles. I have the third set ready to go in next time the wheel is off, I'm at 45,xxx. Some of mine fall out when I remove the wheel too.
Think it's more related to miles or time? How many years before you had 15k miles?
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