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Old 04-28-2013, 08:58 AM   #8491
Oldbear
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Fin Land
Oddometer: 202
Quote:
Originally Posted by poondangle View Post
So I've got a '13 with 500 miles. Almost all of those miles off road. I had to ride the bike to a charity event this morning. This morning was almost all interstate. So I needed to pass a truck this morning...I opened up the throttle at 60ish. Immediately the revs come up to 7k plus, but not the power? I can't possibly need a clutch already? I tried in all gears, and it seemed to be a repeatable problem in every gear. Smooth roll on the gas, and no issue. Hammer the throttle, and for a small period of time, between 5k and 8k I'm just making noise? Any ideas?
Have you checked your clutch fluid reservoir? The fluid level rises as the clutch wears so you could take a peek to see that it's not overfilled. The fluid level should be 4 mm below the top.
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:03 PM   #8492
Christophe
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: Aix-en-Provence, France
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHix View Post
I just put a Clean Speed Eng pedal on my '12. Nice & sturdy and a good fit. Looks similar to the RR, but less $$$.
I worry about these high strength brake pedals, I have broken the stock pedal at least 2x (maybe more, I can't remember), and the G-it side guard has prevented the pedal from piercing the engine cover, but if the pedal could not bend I wonder what damage could be done to the frame pedal mount point. I still prefer the cheap OEM replacement pedal than an unbreakable pedal that creates a risk with the frame, so I just carry a spare brake and clutch pedals on my longer trips (the spare clutch pedal proved useful for a friend recently).
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:52 PM   #8493
thorinoakenshield
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: ☼
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechie View Post
Any tips for nice 690 graphics? more interested in any US on-line stores.
Thank you.
David
http://www.ridepg.com/ is pretty good. i dont think they have full kits, but you can email them. they did my number plate, fork and fork protector decal:


thorinoakenshield screwed with this post 04-28-2013 at 01:13 PM
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:39 PM   #8494
Czechie
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Prague, Czech Republic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorinoakenshield View Post
http://www.ridepg.com/ is pretty good. i dont think they have full kits, but you can email them. they did my number plate, fork and fork protector decal:

Thanks, I've google it found this one in Germany, looks pretty cool.
http://www.race-styles.com/en/show_s...rttype=asc&nr=
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:55 PM   #8495
The Letter J
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Santa Maria, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christophe View Post
I worry about these high strength brake pedals, I have broken the stock pedal at least 2x (maybe more, I can't remember), and the G-it side guard has prevented the pedal from piercing the engine cover, but if the pedal could not bend I wonder what damage could be done to the frame pedal mount point. I still prefer the cheap OEM replacement pedal than an unbreakable pedal that creates a risk with the frame, so I just carry a spare brake and clutch pedals on my longer trips (the spare clutch pedal proved useful for a friend recently).
I'm not sure how to say it nicely, your logic sucks. A stock pedal cost's ~$129 while the stock footpeg bracket cost's ~$132. The footpeg bracket is WAY less likely to get fubared compared to the stock pedal so just put on the stronger pedal and break less often... even if you did damage the footpeg bracket, it would be less frequently (never) so no matter how you slice it going with the stronger pedal (after ruining the stocker) will come out cheaper in the end. Much cheaper and less frustrating than buying a couple stockers every season! If you were that worried about it, you could Heli-coil the female threads on the frame bracket side and use a grade 8 (or F9-11) bolt there too, I wonder what the weak link would be then?

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
I have snagged/hit/pivoted the bike on the cleanspeed pedal hundreds if not thousands of times now with no ill effects since I installed it (3 years ago) and I wholeheartedly recommend it (or the RallyRaid version) to anyone who rides more than street.
Maybe I should install weaker handlebars so that I don't break my bar mounts again? Then I could just carry spare low quality parts with me? Not likely.
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:20 PM   #8496
Hoots
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Gundaroo NSW OZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
I'm not sure how to say it nicely, your logic sucks. A stock pedal cost's ~$129 while the stock footpeg bracket cost's ~$132. The footpeg bracket is WAY less likely to get fubared compared to the stock pedal so just put on the stronger pedal and break less often... even if you did damage the footpeg bracket, it would be less frequently (never) so no matter how you slice it going with the stronger pedal (after ruining the stocker) will come out cheaper in the end. Much cheaper and less frustrating than buying a couple stockers every season! If you were that worried about it, you could Heli-coil the female threads on the frame bracket side and use a grade 8 (or F9-11) bolt there too, I wonder what the weak link would be then?

Maybe I should install weaker handlebars so that I don't break my bar mounts again? Then I could just carry spare low quality parts with me? Not likely.
I agree with Christophe on this one.

Once you've had some frame damage resulting from a twisted pedal or footpeg, you'd do the same ...

The bike prior to this one was written off for this reason - in this country, you can't re-register a bike that has had any form of frame damage - end of bike, which fortunately was reimbursed by the other party's insurance ...

Aside from that, damage to attachment points is generally not repairable in the bush - which can be a major issue ...

Softer levers can generally be re-bent several times before they break - and generally last several years ...
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Old 04-28-2013, 02:59 PM   #8497
Seth S
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If you are worried about breaking the frame because of a strong brake pedal then drill some holes in the pedal to weaken it...basically introduce a designed fail point.
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:16 PM   #8498
poondangle
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Suffolk, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldbear View Post
Have you checked your clutch fluid reservoir? The fluid level rises as the clutch wears so you could take a peek to see that it's not overfilled. The fluid level should be 4 mm below the top.
Took a peek, level looked OK. I just took the same route home, and the bike was doing the same thing. Hit the gas at 5k and revs shoot up to 8k, but no corresponding increase in power??? After a second, RPMs drop, and the bike makes power. It's just like the clutch is slipping?
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:37 PM   #8499
MrHix
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Joined: Mar 2012
Location: MO
Oddometer: 383
Quote:
Originally Posted by Christophe View Post
I worry about these high strength brake pedals, I have broken the stock pedal at least 2x (maybe more, I can't remember), and the G-it side guard has prevented the pedal from piercing the engine cover, but if the pedal could not bend I wonder what damage could be done to the frame pedal mount point. I still prefer the cheap OEM replacement pedal than an unbreakable pedal that creates a risk with the frame, so I just carry a spare brake and clutch pedals on my longer trips (the spare clutch pedal proved useful for a friend recently).
If you worry, don't put one on. I worry more about the stock pedal bending easily and the pad breaking a hole in the clutch cover in the middle of nowhere. I laid the bike over in a gravel ditch when it stalled (where is my Rekluse?) and the pad bent up 90 degrees towards the clutch case. I know a small hole can be fixed with putty and oil can be replaced, but I can ride the bike for quite a distance without the rear brake (especially as someone said if it breaks at the pivot bolt).

Your choice.

Cheers,

MrHix
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:15 PM   #8500
Roadracer_Al
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Oakland, CA
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Sure sounds like it. Smell the engine oil -- does it smell burned? If so, it's definitely clutch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by poondangle View Post
It's just like the clutch is slipping?
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:34 PM   #8501
CanadianX
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Ontario
Oddometer: 1,247
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHix View Post
I just put a Clean Speed Eng pedal on my '12. Nice & sturdy and a good fit. Looks similar to the RR, but less $$$.

http://www.cleanspeedeng.com/Brake%20Pedal.htm

Cheers,

MrHix
Ordered! Now what about the toe tip part, dealer or is there something else out there? Part number? Mine is somewhere out in the woods still attached to the tip of my brake pedal.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:00 PM   #8502
FriedDuck
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Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Oddometer: 404
Quote:
Originally Posted by poondangle View Post
Took a peek, level looked OK. I just took the same route home, and the bike was doing the same thing. Hit the gas at 5k and revs shoot up to 8k, but no corresponding increase in power??? After a second, RPMs drop, and the bike makes power. It's just like the clutch is slipping?
I had that happen after the bike had sat for a long time. It only happened once and I babied it for the rest of that trip. I don't know if it's sound logic but can that discs dry out after sitting for a long time (or at least the part that's not submerged in oil?)

In any event it never recurred and so I didn't worry about it. Swapping the clutch pack is easy in any event if that turns out to be the issue.

Jeff
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:24 PM   #8503
poondangle
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Location: Suffolk, VA
Oddometer: 1,050
Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedDuck View Post
I had that happen after the bike had sat for a long time. It only happened once and I babied it for the rest of that trip. I don't know if it's sound logic but can that discs dry out after sitting for a long time (or at least the part that's not submerged in oil?)

In any event it never recurred and so I didn't worry about it. Swapping the clutch pack is easy in any event if that turns out to be the issue.

Jeff
Interesting! I'm just having a hard time believing that the clutch is burned. Call me crazy, but I believe the first clutch should outlast the first tire
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:24 PM   #8504
FriedDuck
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Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Oddometer: 404
Quote:
Originally Posted by fluff34567 View Post
Is there a clutch pack replacement walk through somewhere or anything special to look for such as half plates etc ?

sent using my fingers and voodoo magic.
Someone did a nice write-up but I think it was lost in the megathread blow-up. It's an easy procedure, some notes from memory:

--Obviously you'll be changing the oil too, so plan for that
--Go ahead and soak the clutch discs when you get them. I think the kit says they need to soak for at least 2 hours?
--You'll have to pull the footpeg mount (3 bolts) and the cover (9 bolts)
--The outermost section of the pack has a convex-shaped ring and a half-size friction disk. Pay attention to which side of the ring is facing out. The remaining stuff is just alternating friction/steel disks.
--Before disassembly note the arrow on the pressure plate (see pic below--it's pointing straight up) that lines up with a notch in the clutch pack. (I think it's a notch--i'll have to consult the service manual)
--The service manual recommends using a factory tool (screws with a shoulder on them) to hold everything together during assembly. It's not necessary but it was a bit fussy getting everything lined up during reassembly. Not a big deal
--Finally the bolts on the cover are 3 different sizes. There's 1 long, 2 medium, and then the rest are short. See the pic below.


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Old 04-28-2013, 06:29 PM   #8505
poondangle
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Suffolk, VA
Oddometer: 1,050
Quote:
Originally Posted by FriedDuck View Post
Someone did a nice write-up but I think it was lost in the megathread blow-up. It's an easy procedure, some notes from memory:

--Obviously you'll be changing the oil too, so plan for that
--Go ahead and soak the clutch discs when you get them. I think the kit says they need to soak for at least 2 hours?
--You'll have to pull the footpeg mount (3 bolts) and the cover (9 bolts)
--The outermost section of the pack has a convex-shaped ring and a half-size friction disk. Pay attention to which side of the ring is facing out. The remaining stuff is just alternating friction/steel disks.
--Before disassembly note the arrow on the pressure plate (see pic below--it's pointing straight up) that lines up with a notch in the clutch pack. (I think it's a notch--i'll have to consult the service manual)
--The service manual recommends using a factory tool (screws with a shoulder on them) to hold everything together during assembly. It's not necessary but it was a bit fussy getting everything lined up during reassembly. Not a big deal
--Finally the bolts on the cover are 3 different sizes. There's 1 long, 2 medium, and then the rest are short. See the pic below.


Thanks. Doesn't seem too hard. I think I'll contact the dealer in the morning. Too bad he's 3 hours away. But I just feel this is a warranty issue. I'm both old and slow, and there's no way it should have gone this quickly.
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