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Old 05-01-2013, 11:34 AM   #16846
bross
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Location: Osoyoos, BC
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One word for anyone having trouble adjusting their chain, shaft. Go buy an Explorer or Tenere or GS. I used to be a shaft only kind of guy, hated chains. BUT my wife has only ever ridden chain driven bikes, SO I was stuck with chain maintenance anyway. I realized a few years ago that it really doesn't matter what drive a bike uses, I just buy the bike that I want to ride. And modern chains are pretty damn easy to maintain.

I do as a few have suggested. Adjust on the side stand, put it back on the center stand and re-measure so I know where to adjust to next time. Also check the frame alignment notches or detents on a new bike to see if they're accurate.

Best way to check tension is as one poster mentioned, line up the axle, swingarm pivot, and front sprocket. Use a tie down over the seat to the swingarm. Once they are in line you should have just a slight bit of slack, about 1/2" is plenty as the chain can never get any tighter at that point. Release the tie strap and then put your bike on the side stand, center stand, whichever you prefer and use that as your chain tension.

On our sons dirt bikes we just used four fingers between swingarm and chain, now those were run loose.



How to do it with pretty pictures...
http://www.easterndirt.com/?p=207

Great tip at the end for making a small wooden chain tension tester.


bross screwed with this post 05-01-2013 at 11:41 AM
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:10 PM   #16847
SMIFFXC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by some call me...tim View Post
While on the subject of chain adjustment, has anyone noticed their adjustment blocks on the swingarm not being symmetrical? I had the back wheel off the other weekend to put new tires on, and when we were getting everything reinstalled, my buddy noticed that the adjuster blocks were significantly different in their position on the swingarm.

On the left side, you can see that the block is just a couple millimeters from the end of the swingarm:


Whereas on the right side, there's a good half inch from the end of the swingarm:



We measured the axle to swingarm pivot over and over, and everything seems to be correct there, but it seems weird that they'd be spaced so differently.
I'm not at home so I can't look at mine but is there a chance you have one of those blocks upside down? I had the dealer put mine on upside down last year and I had to fix it when I got home. You can't see the marks if it is upside down. Just a thought.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:47 PM   #16848
some call me...tim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMIFFXC View Post
I'm not at home so I can't look at mine but is there a chance you have one of those blocks upside down? I had the dealer put mine on upside down last year and I had to fix it when I got home. You can't see the marks if it is upside down. Just a thought.
Hmm, considering I didn't realize there was even an upside down, that's entirely possible. I'll have to take a look later, thanks for the advice.
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Old 05-01-2013, 02:35 PM   #16849
swimmer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
. I realized a few years ago that it really doesn't matter what drive a bike uses, I just buy the bike that I want to ride. And modern chains are pretty damn easy to maintain.

And while I know it's not a very popular solution for whatever reason, if you install a Pro-Oiler and set it up and use it correctly your chain adjustment become pretty much non-existent. Mine gets adjusted when the wheel comes off for tire replacement which is about every 10-14k miles.
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:17 PM   #16850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMIFFXC View Post
I'm not at home so I can't look at mine but is there a chance you have one of those blocks upside down? I had the dealer put mine on upside down last year and I had to fix it when I got home. You can't see the marks if it is upside down. Just a thought.
Quote:
Originally Posted by some call me...tim View Post
Hmm, considering I didn't realize there was even an upside down, that's entirely possible. I'll have to take a look later, thanks for the advice.
Yep. Left side is up side down. Won't hurt anything since the chain tension adjusting bolts keep the alignment.. Just change it the next time you have the axle nut off.

Right Side



Left Side



Pics make it look out of alignment but in reality it's good.
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:31 PM   #16851
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
And while I know it's not a very popular solution for whatever reason, if you install a Pro-Oiler and set it up and use it correctly your chain adjustment become pretty much non-existent. Mine gets adjusted when the wheel comes off for tire replacement which is about every 10-14k miles.
Tried a ScottOiler on two of my bikes and didn't like them. Sure they kept the chain lubed but they flung gunk everywhere even though they were adjusted for proper flow, one to two drops a minute. And I think I spent more time trying to keep the tube end hitting the chain / sprockets than I ever have lubing a chain. More trouble than they're worth to me. Lubing isn't a chore and takes 5 minutes for both bikes on a trip so yeah I just don't worry about it.
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:32 PM   #16852
swimmer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Tried a ScottOiler on two of my bikes and didn't like them. Sure they kept the chain lubed but they flung gunk everywhere even though they were adjusted for proper flow, one to two drops a minute. And I think I spent more time trying to keep the tube end hitting the chain / sprockets than I ever have lubing a chain. More trouble than they're worth to me. Lubing isn't a chore and takes 5 minutes for both bikes on a trip so yeah I just don't worry about it.
Understand your frustration with the Scott Oiler. I was referring to the Pro-Oiler though. Very different.
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:50 PM   #16853
browneye
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Oiler???

I have a mini can of PJ1 in the top box.
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:56 PM   #16854
browneye
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Front wheel hop?

BTW, I put my road tires back on the bike, the trails that came with it, they're such a great tire for mostly road.

Did a mountain trip last weekend, couple'a hundred miles, and was getting the dreaded wheel hop out front. Leaned over at 30 or so it was pretty noticeable.

So when I got home I got my spoke wrench back out as I had "tuned" all the spokes when I did the tire change and thought maybe I had pulled the front rim out of true. Nope, not a waiver, nothing, nada. Tire is true, really close in balance (static).

Then I grabbed the fork legs at the bottom to check the head bearings and found quite a bit of play. Pulled off the top clamp and tightened the nuts and the play went away. Seems I have no more wheel hop now. Keep an eye on those head bearings. About 6K miles on the bike.
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Old 05-02-2013, 05:20 AM   #16855
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Tried a ScottOiler on two of my bikes and didn't like them. Sure they kept the chain lubed but they flung gunk everywhere even though they were adjusted for proper flow, one to two drops a minute. And I think I spent more time trying to keep the tube end hitting the chain / sprockets than I ever have lubing a chain. More trouble than they're worth to me. Lubing isn't a chore and takes 5 minutes for both bikes on a trip so yeah I just don't worry about it.
Lets not get into another Scottoiler debate but I'll just say this:-
A Scottoiler lubricates for the whole of your journey whereas a spray lube just lubricates at the beginning, until it gets washed off or flings off. Also that constant drip of oil helps keep the chain cool so the internal grease doesn't melt and flow past the seals which is probably most of the reason chains last longer with a Scottoiler.
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:24 AM   #16856
Wheres_Bob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by some call me...tim View Post
While on the subject of chain adjustment, has anyone noticed their adjustment blocks on the swingarm not being symmetrical?
You have the left adjuster block upside-down. The back end is slanted. Probably does not really matter which way you put it in, but it will be visually different.
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:17 AM   #16857
markbvt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by some call me...tim View Post
While on the subject of chain adjustment, has anyone noticed their adjustment blocks on the swingarm not being symmetrical? I had the back wheel off the other weekend to put new tires on, and when we were getting everything reinstalled, my buddy noticed that the adjuster blocks were significantly different in their position on the swingarm.
Your left side one's upside down. Remove axle nut, remove block, flip it over, reinstall.

--mark

EDIT: Should have read further; several people beat me to it.
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:21 AM   #16858
cory1848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browneye View Post
BTW, I put my road tires back on the bike, the trails that came with it, they're such a great tire for mostly road.

Did a mountain trip last weekend, couple'a hundred miles, and was getting the dreaded wheel hop out front. Leaned over at 30 or so it was pretty noticeable.

So when I got home I got my spoke wrench back out as I had "tuned" all the spokes when I did the tire change and thought maybe I had pulled the front rim out of true. Nope, not a waiver, nothing, nada. Tire is true, really close in balance (static).

Then I grabbed the fork legs at the bottom to check the head bearings and found quite a bit of play. Pulled off the top clamp and tightened the nuts and the play went away. Seems I have no more wheel hop now. Keep an eye on those head bearings. About 6K miles on the bike.
I will be checking this next. Hopefully my wheel hop issue is solved this easily.
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:39 AM   #16859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markbvt View Post
You don't need a center stand or swingarm spools. The chain is supposed to be adjusted with the bike on the sidestand. If you adjust it with the rear wheel off the ground, it'll be too tight when the suspension is compressed.

--mark
My manual says to adjust chain while the bike it upright with no weight on it. No mention of it being on the side stand.

Quote:
Place the motorcycle on a level surface and
hold it in an upright position with no weight
on it. Rotate the rear wheel by pushing the
motorcycle to find the position where the
chain is tightest, and measure the vertical
movement of the chain midway between the
sprockets.
I checked the alignment and tension and the alignment was off about 1/16 of an inch. I fixed that my rear brake stuttering problem when away. The chain measured from the bottom seems to have about 40-50mm of play which I am questioning too loose? I know it is recommended to run the chains a little loose on the XCs but that seems like a lot. On my sportsbikes I have owned in the past, the chain was alway set with about an inch play while I was sitting on it. But that was race suspension without the travel of the XC. So would a chain being too loose cause the dreaded 4k vibration?

Finally got ahold of a service manual so will be checking torque on every bolt I can find this weekend. I suspect maybe a loose exhaust system bolt somewhere as well.
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:52 AM   #16860
Gronked
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800 Roadie vs BMW 1200GSA

Appologies if this has been covered elsewhere, I looked but didn't find anything.

I'm wondering if anyone can give an insight as to how the T800 roadie (NOT THE XC) would compare with the BMW1200GSA off road and adventure riding in general.

Both have the 19" front, but the GSA has spoked wheels.

T800 is lighter and easier to get your feet on the ground.

I don't know specs like ground clearance and suspension travel.

I just ask because I test-road the T800 and REALLY liked it... but didn't take it off the tarmac. I have owned a GSA in the past and done some easy dirt with it.

So as an adv bike and the one bike to own if you can own only one bike, would the T800 go anywhere the GSA would?

Assuming 1up only, limited off road skills, not intending to go mental in the dirt. Living in Australia, there is probly no dire need for the 33ltr GSA fuel tank.

Thanks :)
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